Building soil for indoor bed, questions

Kalyx

Kalyx

Active Member
Great thread gentlemen! I am moving toward a bed or trough style grow. I reuse all my soil so it just seems to make sense. Buddy your grow is VERY inspiring. BlueJ I like the giant smart pot idea, basically way less construction for a pain patient. I am totally down with no drainage too, it makes things simpler.

I am surprised no one has mentioned SOMA beds here. I like the layer of hydroton with breather/ventilation pvc pipes stuck down into it then weed barrier then soil mix. Of course it would be a lot simpler to just set something up which allows air under the bed/giant smartpot. And that much hydroton can get pricey even at discount pricing!

PS i tried no till reused soil on my tomato trough in my greenhouse this year. I only pulled the vines and a small root clump last november, then I grew greens in it all winter, then just pulled those, let it sit for a month, then put in my new tomatoes. They are GETTING IT this year, no signs of any stress due to the roots from last year in the bed. I have mutant style blooms going on, like 50+ fruits on one Blush truss, simple and effective so far! No synth bloom booster required, just a good living soil and AACT and the occasional Age old Bloom (my mix is far from a supersoil, nute wise). I'm definitely subbed:lol:
 
malignant

malignant

Well-Known Member
you can get more fungal brews by using more seaweed or kelp. more bacteria by using more hydrolyzed fish. the stickys on top have several different formulas for different compositions.
 
WyoGrow

WyoGrow

Active Member
I might just be a kook but I honestly feel that using river sand and rock dust is one of the reasons I have one of the best producing (non weed) gardens in the state. River sand and rock dust are comprised of multitudes of micro nutrients and trace elements. We all know the big three N-P-K..... those are the building blocks. But you can't build a brick house with just bricks alone. You have to have mortar. Micro nutes and trace elements are the mortar that builds a solid fertilizer.
 
WyoGrow

WyoGrow

Active Member
I get my "river sand" from a few washes about 47.6 miles past and just to the left of BFE. No agricultural run off. At the very least it add structure to your soil and helps it to drain. At best, it breaks down slowly and adds a plethora of trace elements to your soil.
 
B

Buddy Hemphill

Active Member
bertiswho said:
Your right not all of them are harmed, BUT ALOT OF THEM ARE. just because not of all of them die doesnt mean its still ok. why dont you read teaming with microbes before you wanna start talking organics. cuz if you did, it states right in there that Chemical fertilizers Harm the soil food web.


Negative Impacts on the soil food web

Chemical fertalizers, pesticides, insecticides and fingicides affect the soil web, toxic to some memebers, warding off others and changing the enviroment.
Important fungal and bacterial relationships dont form when a plant can get free nutrients. when chemically fed, plants bypass the microbial-assisted method
of obtaining nutrients.

Right from the book teaming with microbes.

So basically if your using chemical fertalizers its pointless to run organic soil
Click to expand...


Sorry I have to do this.

You dont know what the fuck you are talking about.


Ok...prove me wrong. What bacteria is harmed by ANY chemical nutes?....like the species/sub species name....specifically. At what percentage of TDS chems do they start dying?....by species, if you dont mind.

Heres the thing...you arent even SPELLING fertilizer correctly.....or fingercides...lol.:wall:

Stop puking up internet info that you read somewhere else.:spew:
 
scroglodyte

scroglodyte

Well-Known Member
WyoGrow said:
I might just be a kook but I honestly feel that using river sand and rock dust is one of the reasons I have one of the best producing (non weed) gardens in the state. River sand and rock dust are comprised of multitudes of micro nutrients and trace elements. We all know the big three N-P-K..... those are the building blocks. But you can't build a brick house with just bricks alone. You have to have mortar. Micro nutes and trace elements are the mortar that builds a solid fertilizer.
Click to expand...
azomite is a great mineral sup.
and, I agree..........minerals make the difference. they are what factory foods lack
 
bertiswho

bertiswho

Active Member
Buddy Hemphill said:
Sorry I have to do this.

You dont know what the fuck you are talking about.


Ok...prove me wrong. What bacteria is harmed by ANY chemical nutes?....like the species/sub species name....specifically. At what percentage of TDS chems do they start dying?....by species, if you dont mind.

Heres the thing...you arent even SPELLING fertilizer correctly.....or fingercides...lol.:wall:

Stop puking up internet info that you read somewhere else.:spew:
Click to expand...

i should of phrased it differently. chemical Fertilizers harm them in the sense that it reduces the populations of the benificials. so yes chemical fertilizers do cause some of the bacteria and fungus to die off. Iam not saying that the chemical Ferts kill the whole soild food web but it certainly reduces what you could have without the fertilizers.

i wasnt spouting something from the internet, its from a book called teaming with microbes, go buy it, it will teach you something.

Also what does my spelling have to do with the debate?
 
B

Buddy Hemphill

Active Member
bertiswho said:
i should of phrased it differently. chemical Fertilizers harm them in the sense that it reduces the populations of the benificials. so yes chemical fertilizers do cause some of the bacteria and fungus to die off. Iam not saying that the chemical Ferts kill the whole soild food web but it certainly reduces what you could have without the fertilizers.

i wasnt spouting something from the internet, its from a book called teaming with microbes, go buy it, it will teach you something.

Also what does my spelling have to do with the debate?
Click to expand...
Like I said...prove me wrong.

Do you even know the names of the bacteria you are describing?

If so, please tell me what percentage of TDS (chem salts) each of them start dying off.


If not....welp.....you know....stop preaching that stuff.
 
T

Tyranasaurus69

Member
hey ya'll
I've got my no till bed started. about to run the second set of plants, i cooked up a nice mixture over a month and watered both it and later the plants with tea's.
All the compost and EWC i bought were bagged, yet high quality.
i have been running a nice compost pile for over a year in a tumbler bucket and it is looking great.
i have heard mixed things about bringing in outside compost piles and the possible pests that come with it.
mine is full of worms and rollie pollies, and all sorts of little buddies.
can i add this compost to my no till bed as a top dress?
should i mix it with a bunch of brown leaf matter and use it as mulch?
or should i keep it outside and just use it to brew tea?

really would appreciate any feedback
 
Pattahabi

Pattahabi

Well-Known Member
Buddy Hemphill said:
Sorry I have to do this.

You dont know what the fuck you are talking about.


Ok...prove me wrong. What bacteria is harmed by ANY chemical nutes?....like the species/sub species name....specifically. At what percentage of TDS chems do they start dying?....by species, if you dont mind.

Heres the thing...you arent even SPELLING fertilizer correctly.....or fingercides...lol.:wall:

Stop puking up internet info that you read somewhere else.:spew:
Click to expand...
Why don't you spell it out for us?
 
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