Stealth LED Array light .

stardustsailor

stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
Heatsink prep part 2 :

After the tapping of drill holes ( Thread : M3 x 0.5 mm ) for the Ideal array holders ,
the heatsink is sanded by hand with WD40 and 2500 EU grit sand paper.
(only the CXA area )..
Almost to a mirror -finish ...
(takes about 10'-15' )

PA091649.JPG


PA091652.JPG

Now the heatsink is ready .The CXA3070 arrays can be installed .

Cheers.
 
Positivity

Positivity

Well-Known Member
Just got done doing some reading on sanding heatsinks straight from the cree website. It mirrors a lot of what you are doing..:p I need to take my time on that area a bit more.

Could I tap your knowledge a bit sds..

Regarding pots...250k is recommended. But I'll be running two drivers so half that is 125k.

You think 150k would be alright? Theres a better selection in 150k with a 10% tolerance rating.

And one other..a little more on topic since it's a feature you've been using. I'd like to start integrating a ammeter to display the current I'm running. That'd be really useful running these cobs...any led really. I saw the analog like yours is a straightforward hookup but id like to try a digital.

The digital can run off my dc fan supply?

And...they have a dual voltage/current model. A little unnecessary but could be helpful. Seems to make more of a wiring mess.

Is the dual ammeter as much extra wiring as it seems?

Just running through options for my veg light...I'm in no rush to use it so I thought I'd try some new things..
 
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stardustsailor

stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
Positivity said:
Just got done doing some reading on sanding heatsinks straight from the cree website. It mirrors a lot of what you are doing..:p I need to take my time on that area a bit more.

Could I tap your knowledge a bit sds..

Regarding pots...250k is recommended. But I'll be running two drivers so half that is 125k.

You think 150k would be alright? Theres a better selection in 150k with a 10% tolerance rating.

And one other..a little more on topic since it's a feature you've been using. I'd like to start integrating a ammeter to display the current I'm running. That'd be really useful running these cobs...any led really. I saw the analog like yours is a straightforward hookup but id like to try a digital.

The digital can run off my dc fan supply?

And...they have a dual voltage/current model. A little unnecessary but could be helpful. Seems to make more of a wiring mess.

Is the dual ammeter as much extra wiring as it seems?

Just running through options for my veg light...I'm in no rush to use it so I thought I'd try some new things..
Click to expand...

1) Yes .150 K will be fine ...More is ok .Less is limiting the full output .
But ..With 150 K pot ,the full output will be set ,a bit before the pot 'ends' ..
So you will have a tad of "slack" ,towards the end of the pot.
(the full output set will be before the end of the 150 K ...When it hits 125 K ..
There'll be 25 K till the pot 'ends' .Still you will be obtaining full max output ... )

2) Yes ,most dual meters / digital Amperemeters can be operated from the 12 V fan PSU.
( And they draw a low current figure ,in order to operate ) .

Wiring is :
a) a pair of +/- wires (usually black&red )for operation ( usually 4.5 -30 VDC ) and
b) a pair of +/- to measure current (in series connected always,with 'led out' wires of driver)
In case of dual meter :
c) a pair of +/- wires to measure voltage (always parallel connection to 'led out' wires of driver )


The CXA arrays are installed :

PA091654.JPG

PA091657.JPG

Cheers.
 
stardustsailor

stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
Ahhh....
Star-F...n-dust-F...n-sailor
A lover of SSL Warm White light ,since the very start of his love affair with solid state light ..

Light from Rare Earth ...
Light from Stone ...
Hel from Las ...
:P..

I'd rather go blind ,than seeing " black " leaves ...
Dedicated to my 'secret' love ..The CXA 3000K led array ...

:lol::lol::lol::lol::lol:

Cheers.
 
stardustsailor

stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
Yes ...
Light from Stone for real ...

http://rareearthinvestingnews.com/6829-rare-earths-in-greece-and-nordic-countries-could-meet-europe-demand.html


But for sale ...
To whom ?
Who else,really ?






Gov’t looks into tapping Greece’s rare earth elements


Environment and Energy Minister Yiannis Maniatis on Tuesday spoke of encouraging signs concerning the existence of rare earth elements in Greece following a meeting with members of a group of Chinese representatives in Greece to attend an international conference on the subject on the island of Milos.

Maniatis said Greece is one of just five European countries to have such indications. He added that the country’s mineral wealth is among its comparative advantages, as its total estimated value amounts to 40 billion euros, while Greece has much in the way of rare minerals, particularly in the north.

Those rare minerals include elements that are necessary for the manufacture of computers, cars, satellites, windpower generators and many more products. Over 90 percent of such minerals’ global reserves are in China, which has developed significant know-how in finding and mining them. In Greece there are two ongoing programs concerning rare minerals in onshore and offshore areas.

The initial aim of the Greek-Chinese negotiations is to establish cooperation on technical and scientific level, with the possible utilization of Greek reserves in the future.



ekathimerini.com , Tuesday September 9, 2014 (23:25)


http://www.ekathimerini.com/4dcgi/_w_articles_wsite2_1_09/09/2014_542783


Cheers.
 
salmonetin

salmonetin

Well-Known Member
http://www.infineon.com/dgdl/IFX_Whitepaper_Intelligent Over Temperature Protection for LED Lighting Applications.pdf?folderId=db3a30431400ef68011407a99bd00180&fileId=db3a304344d727a80144df6b18780bea

http://www.cypress.com/?docID=22513

p.d.
stardustsailor said:
Good info ,Salmo.
Thanx a lot !
Click to expand...
...thanks a lot to you @stardustsailor,,, ..more..

http://apps1.eere.energy.gov/buildings/publications/pdfs/ssl/thermal_led_feb07_2.pdf

http://www.fortronic.it/user/file/A&VElettronica/OT02.pdf

http://www.infineon.com/dgdl/Infineon-ILD6070-AN-v2_1-en.pdf?folderId=db3a30431400ef68011407aaa4500184&fileId=db3a30433e0d3017013e0d96ce82014f

http://www.infineon.com/dgdl/Infineon-ILD6150-AN-v2_1-en.pdf?folderId=db3a30431400ef68011407aaa4500184&fileId=db3a30433cabdd35013cb4b6b6d76cc0

Saludos
 
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stardustsailor

stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
Mohican said:
Mirror polish! Do you use a buffing wheel?

Any new news from the tomb dig?
Click to expand...
No .No buffing wheel .
Just sprayed the heatsink with WD40 and started sanding with 2500 EU grit sandpaper ,by hand.
After a while ,aluminium particles (dust ) forms a 'paste' with WD40 ...
As sanding continues ,at a moment this 'paste' sticks to the sandpaper ,leaving a 'mirror-like' finish to the
heatsink's surface ..
(Ease the pressure on the sandpaper then ...)

Ahh...The Amfipolis tomb ...
Well see for yourself ...
http://www.amfipoli-news.com/photos.php?category=yppoa

And a 3D walk ...
http://amfipoli-news.com/3dmap.php#keyboard-controls

(Arrow keys or WASD for moving ,Shift:run ,Space : jump
F:fullscreen ,R:reset ,C:change camera ..
Tomb Raider -like ...:P... )

Cheers !
:peace:
 
K

komjaunimas

Active Member
Im going to use my first post to tell, that especially you SDS, also Supra , Positivity and other CXA / Vero / COB tinkerers made me finally contemplate a build of my own. I've been lurking for years, reading upon builds etc, but it was quite a mess. With input from you guys, more or less what ever you could need are in a couple of threads, one just shouldnt be lazy to read. Hat off to you guys.
 
Mohican

Mohican

Well-Known Member
Thanks SDS! That 3D walk was fun! I could not figure out how to get in the small hole at the end of the tunnel :)

I did not realize that it had so much more future work to be done. How did it get filled with dirt?

Cheers,
Mo
 
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stardustsailor

stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
Mechmike said:
It has 6 chanels. One for each of the 5 strings of 3 Veros +2 stars and one for the 660s. My last run was 15.3 ounces. Not too bad for 6 square feet. It has a lot to do with the 96 Cree CXA1304 cobs surrounding the plants in the other 4 levels of bars. They're the 9v version slightly underdriven at 300ma.
Click to expand...

Yup !
I've remembered where ...

Here :
http://asgsb.indstate.edu/bulletins/v19n2/019 - 030 Massa.pdf


Overall, plants grown under overhead lights
produced less biomass and had a reduced energy
conversion rate than plants grown with intracanopy
lights,with overhead-lighted plants averaging 75% of the
productivity of intracanopy-lighted plants (data not shown).

................................................................................................................................................................................................

Deja-Vu 2 ..
From 2006 ...

Another important advance in LED research is the commercial availability of “chip-on-board” LED light
engines. Unlike discrete LEDs with plastic lenses,these light engines are small printed-circuit wafers that pack
large numbers of small LEDs of selectable emission colors into close proximity. For example, the ORBITEC
light engine can array 132 LEDs of five colors in a 6.25 cm2 square (Massa et al., 2005a). This allows for
unprecedented color blending and very bright light levels.LED emissions are current-controlled, and the light output
is directly proportional to input current within their operating range, so unlike other types of dimming
systems for lighting, dimming of LEDs directly reduces power usage. LEDs have solid-state construction, are
extremely durable, and resistant to shock. Transparent coatings on the chips protect them against high humidity
and allow for cleaning without reducing light levels. LED chips, like discrete LEDs, have low mass and volume.
LEDs generally emit light in a narrow region of the color spectrum. The number of available colors is extrem
ely large, with one of the most efficient being red LEDs emitting at 640 nm, where light has a relative quantum
efficiency for photosynthesis of ~96% (Sager and McFarlane, 1997). Experimentation has demonstrated
that different species can be grown successfully under LEDs, including spinach (Goins and Yorio, 2000), lettuce
(Goins et al., 2001; Kim et al., 2004), radish (Goins et al.,2001), wheat (Goins et al., 1997), and micropropagated
potato plantlets (Miyashuta et al., 1995).

Generally, about 15% blue light is required for normal growth, and yields have been achieved that are comparable to growth under white light (Yorio et al., 1998).

Research hasdemonstrated that green light also can have beneficial effects for growth and plant assessment, especially within dense foliar canopies (Kim et al., 2004; 2005)

.........
8-)
Hey-hey-hey !!!!
It seems that they 've always 'knew' about " white light " ,eh ?
:fire:

And about COBs ,in general ....

CONCLUSIONS
When considering a light source for ALS, several important characteristics must be kept in mind: A
variety of light sources have been evaluated from this perspective. LEDs, especially the relatively new chip-on-board LED light engines, appear to be optimal lighting systems for ALS crop growth for a variety of reasons. As a rapidly developing technology, electrical efficiency of these light sources continues to increase. In addition, the ability to precisely select a spectrum that is efficient for photosynthesis, growth, and flowering, the durable solid-state nature of LEDs, the relatively cool emitter surface,their long lifetime, tunability of the spectrum and irradiation levels, and ability to easily remove heat all combine to make this lighting type the best contender for ALS crop production. When the benefits of LEDs are coupled with techniques that apply light only where there is photosynthetic capability, the increased lighting efficiency will result in a significant reduction in the power required to maintain desired levels of biomass production, reducing the cost of growing plants in an ALSS, and bringing crop growth on Luna and Mars that much closer to reality.

Cheers !
:peace:
 
JBox

JBox

Member
stardustsailor said:
The 'known' parts ....

- 200 mm x 160 mm x 40 mm AA 1060 16-fined hetsink .(raw )
-2x Cree CXA3070 led arrays ( 3000K -80 CRI -AB )
-2x Ideal holders (had some spare ... )
-Arctic Silver 5 .
Click to expand...
Hey SDS I've been really enjoying watching your build and am now starting my own. One problem I'm having is that I can't find any CXA3070 3000K AB bins for anything less that a quantity of 20. So we're talking like a grand when I only need two or three.

Where did you get these CXA's from?

Thanks,
J
 
stardustsailor

stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
JBox said:
Hey SDS I've been really enjoying watching your build and am now starting my own. One problem I'm having is that I can't find any CXA3070 3000K AB bins for anything less that a quantity of 20. So we're talking like a grand when I only need two or three.

Where did you get these CXA's from?

Thanks,
J
Click to expand...
I guess I 've my 'middle -man' ...
:bigjoint:
...

Cheers.
:peace:
 
stardustsailor

stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
In a hurry ...
Where the " Peach 'n' Choco Stealth Ice Cream" ( .... :P.....) project stands so far ...

The parts up to date :

The "Hood" ..
(underside)
Thanx to Salmonetin ,I've read few things about some principles ,regarding sound absorption
in metal 'boxes' (automobiles ) and anti-vibration proffing of metal surfaces ...

PA151664.JPG

Front and rear panels (front side ,both ),along with an external 120 mm (12 VDC, 110 mA ) relatively silent fan ..
PA151660.JPG


"Inner" sides of above ...
PA151662.JPG


Bottom ,sides and inner plate ( aka "engine" -drivers are missing ) ...
PA151658.JPG

PA151659.JPG

And the ...
Heatsink-Led arrays ' module '...
PA151663.JPG

Cheers.
:peace:
 
stardustsailor

stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
To Guod ,if he sees that :

I would like to have a circuit ,having two indicator leds (20mA )
-one red and one green or so -
to show the operational state of the fan .

If the fan is working fine then the green led stays lit .
If the fan is not working ,then the red led ,lights ...

I want it "keep it stupid simple ' ...
Nothing fancy ...

A fast idea that came up to my mind is this one :
Query.JPG

If the fan is working then current flows through fan and then some ( R2=1K or more ) lights up the D2 green led .
If the fan is not working then no current goes through fan and D2 green led stays 'low' at both ends .
But now some current (R1=R2=1K or more ) goes through D1 red led and lights it up .
The diode D3 ( 1N400x ) is put there so that the red led won't light ( -0.7 V ) when fan is working
(green led on ) .

Would this work ?
Maybe I've to test it afterall ..(But I've no time ...)

Or it needs some transistors (i.e. BC 547 / 546 ) there ,to power the leds
( collector -emitter -wise / the base as 'signal input' )?


Cheers.
 
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