Germination rates and poll

How do you sow your seeds

  • Plant straight into soil

    Votes: 24 35.3%
  • Jiffy pellets

    Votes: 5 7.4%
  • Paper towels etc

    Votes: 17 25.0%
  • Water cup only

    Votes: 4 5.9%
  • Water cup an then paper towels

    Votes: 12 17.6%
  • Rock wool or some other hydro medium

    Votes: 6 8.8%

  • Total voters
    68

kiwipaulie

Well-Known Member
I'm getting sick of seeds not germing. I've tried most mentioned methods and they all work, but I'm only getting about a 60% strike rate.

I'm using brought fem seeds. The ones that never fail are the more expensive seeds and I've never had a dineafem seed not to crack.

I'm thinking of just putting them straight in to seedling mix. All my vegetable seeds sprout no problem, I'm wondering if all this extra work is even worth it.
 

kogislife420

Active Member
I love it 100% perlite and fresh sun all day then 18 w lights at night so they are constantly growing, popped 8 in the mix in one pot and 9 in the other, they all popped, if I'm using some technique idk, I just drench the pot completley then I get a stick poke really small holes in the ground and I cover it lightly, I had over 130 seeds go through the wash and they all work popped the next day :) must of liked the washing machine
 

kiwipaulie

Well-Known Member
I love it 100% perlite and fresh sun all day then 18 w lights at night so they are constantly growing, popped 8 in the mix in one pot and 9 in the other, they all popped, if I'm using some technique idk, I just drench the pot completley then I get a stick poke really small holes in the ground and I cover it lightly, I had over 130 seeds go through the wash and they all work popped the next day :) must of liked the washing machine
Damn we're the quality seeds or bagseed
 

weedenhanced

Well-Known Member
Damn we're the quality seeds or bagseed
I get 100% man from doing this paper towel make it damp not soggy about 2 sheets then fold in half put seeds in middle then fold again then I get a sandwich bag the lock zip ones put the paper towel in that then put in a warm dark area normal my tent with light dimmed to 200w between 2!plant pot bases ...
Next I cheak seeds daily soon as they crack and u can just see a hint of the the root sticking out I get out the jiffy pellets straight into a damp jiffy not soggy ..then that jiffy straight into the pot I'll use for whole grow the medium does not matter add about half a cup of water once a day around the jiffy not straight on it ...then that pot straight under my 400w mh bulb dimmed to 200 within 3 day I norm have this image.jpg
With 2 weeks this image.jpgThen I start my nuts grow for 3 weeks train ect the flower
I've never had a seed that showed a root in the paper towel die doing this I buy cheap fem seeds from so far demon seeds bonza seeds and attitude seeds
Nl autos demon seed 5 seed all opened

Klashkinovas attitude seeds 5 seeds al opened

And ATM Superbud from bonza seeds 4 all opened
 

Wicked ReToddDid

Active Member
I experience a high germination rate. My method is to soak seeds in a glass of water for 24 hours, then move the seeds to a moist paper towel. The moist paper towel is moved into a gallon ziplock bag, but the bag does not get sealed. From there the bag containing the paper towel is placed in a 10x20 tray that has a heat pad under it. The paper towel should be moist, not soaked. Within 24 hours of placing them in the tray, all seeds have popped.

After popping, they go into "party" cups with plenty of holes in the bottom. I bury seeds no more than an inch deep in Sunshine mix #4.

Improper storage of seed will give slanted germination rates. As well as just plain crappy seeds from crappy breeders. If I have a stubborn seed that won't pop, I score the seed shell and redo the entire process.
 

AlphaPhase

Well-Known Member
I haven't had a seed no sprout in years. I put them straight into a moist paper towel. Then I put the paper towel into a closed tuperware container and place it into a drawer or cabinet. After 24-48 hrs. 100% will pop. If you're not getting 100% germ rate then it is time to think about what breeders gear you are using. I've popped 7 year old seeds sitting in a box with this method and they all pop.
 

oldtimer54

Well-Known Member
I haven't had a seed no sprout in years. I put them straight into a moist paper towel. Then I put the paper towel into a closed tuperware container and place it into a drawer or cabinet. After 24-48 hrs. 100% will pop. If you're not getting 100% germ rate then it is time to think about what breeders gear you are using. I've popped 7 year old seeds sitting in a box with this method and they all pop.
You are the man....johnny fucking Appleseed you are..... I have good results but not 100%
Our techniques are close......I will say that I've noticed that purchased seeds don't pop as often as bag seeds for me !
Oh I have germinated seeds that were at least 5 years old .....but they were high quality bag seeds that I put away and just forgot and they all germinated for me and I still have them in my personal seed bank that I pull out and grow from time to time
 

AlphaPhase

Well-Known Member
lol, no johnny appleseed here, but my method does work great. Bag seeds are nice, they always seem to be mature more so than some seeds from breeder packs. When a seed doesn't sprout it's usually because the seed didn't get to grow to it's maturity (I think, that's the reason, but not positive).. But if the seed is viable and you use the paper towel/ tupperware method, they will pop for sure. The key is to wring out all excess water so the paper towel is just moist and not wet. If it's too wet it will probably cause the seed to rot. @oldtimer54
 

RM3

Well-Known Member
I breed, so I have lots of seeds and IMO is best to store in the fridge (or freezer)

Seeds have an active enzyme on em that is activated by water, when activated it tells the seed to pop, does not take a lot of water

With older seeds, improperly stored seeds or seeds that have been handled a lot This enzyme wears out, dries up, gets rubbed off

In this case a bag of regular veggie seeds is your friend, put a bag of veggie seeds into 2 oz's of water let sit for 24 to 48 hours you now have a water bath full of the enzyme that tells seeds to pop. Put your MJ seeds in this water for 12 to 24 hours and see if your results don't improve
 

vostok

Well-Known Member
I'm getting sick of seeds not germing. I've tried most mentioned methods and they all work, but I'm only getting about a 60% strike rate.

I'm using brought fem seeds. The ones that never fail are the more expensive seeds and I've never had a dineafem seed not to crack.ding what you are doing is paramount to

I'm thinking of just putting them straight in to seedling mix. All my vegetable seeds sprout no problem, I'm wondering if all this extra work is even worth it.
Thats me that ticked number 5, understanding is paramount to any grow.. carrots.. cabbage or canna,
60% just sucks, thats a serious cash loss in any place.
The more expensive the seed.. the more hassle it will require, as its been sitting in some banks fridge .like forever, and will need scarifying, soaking, then resting to allow the cells to develop(the paper towel)
the fresher the seeds the easier to germ...try it out
 

weedenhanced

Well-Known Member
I beg to differ I had skunk seedlings pop after 7 days, that skunk what ever it maybe have been was a one cone wonder sorta stuff :)
Cracked or popped out the ground very large difference never taken my seed more then 50 hours to pop musta been a freak seed
 

Uncle Ben

Well-Known Member
Germinating Cannabis Seeds (for Bio Growers)

Your seedlings will be alot better off if you germinate directly in soil - less handling and mechanical disturbance means less chance of physical damage to the plant's taproot (and roothairs) and less food reserves used to position itself due to the natural hormonal influence called Gravitropism. That translates into less food reserves used and increased seedling vigor, especially in the very early critical stages of seedling development.

This is my foolproof method for Cannabis Seed Germination in soil:

First, if harvesting seeds from my own crosses, I air-dry newly harvested seeds for a couple of weeks, and then store them in the refrigerator with a little rice. Cold-treatment seems to increase viability and germination rates, especially with indica-dom strains. I almost always get a 100% germination rate with quality seed stock.

Soak the seeds in plain water for 12 hours prior to planting to hydrate them, which will speed up germination. In general, good seeds will sink, bad seeds will remain floating (they contain air, not an embryo). I first sterilize seeds in a bleach solution (1 Tbsp. bleach/1 gallon of water) for 1/2 hour to kill any fungus residing on the seedcoat.

Sterilize enough *damp* fine soil with heat to germinate all of your seeds. You can do this by treating the damp soil to temps of (no more than) 180F for 20 mins in a conventional oven, or in a microwave oven on high for 2 minutes, while stirring a couple of times. Your goal is to get and hold the entire soil mix's temperature at 170F to 180F for about 20 minutes which can be monitored with a probe type thermometer. Let the mix cool thoroughly. This will insure that damp-off fungus spores have been killed in the soil mix. Make sure the soil mix is light and humusy (not real coarse). You can add a little sand or vermiculite to aid in drainage and weight.

Buy some white 20oz styrofoam "drinking glasses", commonly called "Styro-Cups", and punch holes in the bottom (and side bottom) for drainage. I use a red-hot ice pick for this. These containers are 6 1/2" tall and will allow ample room for the taproot to grow before cotyledon emergence which will increase your seedling's vigor. The taproot (radicle) is already at least 4" long at the point of emergence - don't restrict it (in order to maximize seedling growth rate). Styro-Cups can be found on the shelf displaying picnic items at your local grocery store.

Fill the pots almost to the top with your soil mix, water well to settle the mix, take a pencil and make a small hole about 1/4" to 1/2" deep, NO deeper, and drop *one* seed in. Cover the seed with fine soil, only enough to top up the hole, firm lightly with your finger, and lightly water until water runs freely thru the drain holes. Place in a warm spot around 80F/26C. Do NOT cover the cup with saran wrap or anything else. The seed has been hydrated from the soaking and will germinate soon. This container should not require further watering until the seedling is up and running.

During the first couple of days, mist the top soil surface lightly (if need be), never allowing the top to crust over, but not to the point that the medium stays waterlogged which will invite pythium rot (damp-off). "Less is more" at this point. Do NOT water this pot any more until the seedling is up, and only if it needs it at the point of emergence. Again, no need to cover with plastic wrap as the radicle (taproot) will grow at least 4" before the cotyledons emerge from the soil. IOW, even though you can't see it, the plant's root is seeking and finding moisture at the container's lower soil levels. I cannot emphasize this enough. The seedling will emerge anywhere from 2 to 10 days from the time you sowed it.

That's all to it! With good care, your faves will be ready to transplant within 1 to 2 weeks, and will easily slip out of the "cup" with a solid rootball that will never know it's been disturbed if potted up gently and quickly. Move up to a final pot of 3 to 5 gallons to sex and finish.

Good luck,
Uncle Ben
 

Uncle Ben

Well-Known Member
Do not scarify and do not use a paper towel.

Here are some caveats I wrote years ago which explains the science behind seed germination.

The dormancy of a seed is determined by a fight between auxins and anti-auxins. It is with the proper conditions (warmth, moisture, etc.) that the auxins finally "win" and break the plant out of its embryonic dormant state. Now, there are other hormonal responses involved such as gravitropism which play a part in all of this. IOW, the affect of gravity on certain plant parts - foliage responds in opposition to the pull, root tissue responds in favor of it. So, if you hydrate a seed which does nothing more than speed up the germ process, and just before the seedcoat cracks sow it, it then stands the best chance of orienting itself due to the pull of gravity and using stored reserves in the germplasm (cotyledons) for maximum vigor and health. A "healthy" plant is strong enough to overcome some issues that could ruin its survival such as damp-off, caused by pythium and such.

It's a no-brainer, you don't check or fool with anything, you just soak the seed for about 12 hours until it sinks, sow it, and you're done. If it doesn't sink within 12 hours, you have an air pocket in place of a viable embryo. You probably don't want to take this chance with your treasured seed stock but you can apply pressure between your index finger and thumb on a seed and if it doesn't easily crush/collapse, then chances are almost 100% that it has an embryo, just waiting to pop out in all of its glory.
 

kogislife420

Active Member
Cracked or popped out the ground very large difference never taken my seed more then 50 hours to pop musta been a freak seed
Yeah, it got you that high you didnt even know what the hell you were doing or if you sat down got high and wanted to get up you think of every action you can do to get up :P
 

AlphaPhase

Well-Known Member
true, I could see just a paper towel out in the open air being a terrible way to germinate, but that's why I put them in tupperware. Same routine and still 100%. Like mentioned above I gently squeeze them and if they pop the get returned or thrown out. I don't waste time with those seeds. I just put this in today and it'll be ready by Saturday at the latest with this method.
 

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