st0wandgrow
Well-Known Member
There's roughly 7.5 gallons in a cubic foot, so 90 gallons would be about 12 cubic feet. That will consist of 1 part peat moss (or coco coir), 1 part aeration, 1 part compost. Add your meals and minerals to that
Recycled Organic Living Soil (ROLS) and No Till Thread
- Thread starter headtreep
- Start date
goodjoint
Well-Known Member
Great info in this thread. Thanks all!
What do you guys think about this: http://www.kisorganics.com/products/shop/nutrient-pack
I'm thinking about trying their recipe and nutrient mix.... Seems simple enough...
It contains KIS Organics Microbe Catalyst, Organic Alfalfa Meal, Organic Fish Bone Meal, Organic Crustacean Meal, Organic Kelp Meal, Organic Fish Meal, Glacial Rock Dust, Soft Rock Phosphate, Oyster Shell Flour, Ahimsa Organics Neem Cake and Karanja Cake, Gypsum, Natural Calcite, Mycorrhiza, and Beneficial Microbes.
Then add it to...
15 gallons spaghnum peat moss, 10 gallons perlite, 5 gallons high quality compost or earthworm castings.
What do you guys think about this: http://www.kisorganics.com/products/shop/nutrient-pack
I'm thinking about trying their recipe and nutrient mix.... Seems simple enough...
It contains KIS Organics Microbe Catalyst, Organic Alfalfa Meal, Organic Fish Bone Meal, Organic Crustacean Meal, Organic Kelp Meal, Organic Fish Meal, Glacial Rock Dust, Soft Rock Phosphate, Oyster Shell Flour, Ahimsa Organics Neem Cake and Karanja Cake, Gypsum, Natural Calcite, Mycorrhiza, and Beneficial Microbes.
Then add it to...
15 gallons spaghnum peat moss, 10 gallons perlite, 5 gallons high quality compost or earthworm castings.
smokey the cat
Well-Known Member
I reckon you'll be sweet: sounds like a mild irritant, not a poison that's gonna destroy your ecosystem. http://www.happysimpleliving.com/2008/02/04/can-you-compost-a-poinsettia/
You will be happy to hear that poinsettias are not poisonous, so yours can be safely added to the compost heap. Some people are sensitive to the milky sap that comes from the poinsettia’s branches; it can occasionally cause an itchy rash. Wear your gardening gloves when you add the plant to the compost, and be careful not to rub your eyes after touching the plants.
Midwest Weedist
Well-Known Member
Thank you! I was really contemplating picking every little piece out of my planters lol.
st0wandgrow
Well-Known Member
That looks like a really solid mix IMO. Only thing I'd suggest is to beef up the compost portion a bit
goodjoint
Well-Known Member
Thank you. I was thinking of 10 gallons of compost rather than 5?
I'm not sure if I should use Alaska Humus, Fungal Compost, worm castings, or a balanced mix of them all...
- http://www.kisorganics.com/products/shop/alaska-humus
- http://www.kisorganics.com/products/shop/keep-it-simple-fungal-compost
st0wandgrow
Well-Known Member
Yes, 10 would be ideal.
As for what to use, I'd say fresh is best. If you can find something local that would be great as opposed to something that is bagged and sitting on a shelf or in a warehouse. Check out Craigslist and you might find something that will work....
goodjoint
Well-Known Member
KIS Organics state on their website: "Our composts are not pre-packaged so we can provide the freshest compost possible." I can pick up from them locally.
Checking craigslist I found some free "organic compost from 99% horse manure" with "no acidic shavings"
Thanks for the help!
STR8PUFF'N4DAYS (0_o)
New Member
HOLY DAMN!!!!!!This was my very first crop using all these new products:
smokey the cat
Well-Known Member
Pick comfrey leaves, pick dandelions....put into bucket...add water...leave to brew.....it will start breaking down...and turn black...stir occasionally if you want....keep adding to it if you wish....
I now have a bucket of roughly chopped comfrey-dandelion getting funky.Planning on diluting this gunk to the colour of light amber tea before applying to soil - sound about right?
goodjoint
Well-Known Member
I decided to go with the ClakamasCoots recipe: http://buildasoil.com/products/the-clackamas-kit
With this as my base, should anything else be added that's missing?
When "cooking" the soil, should it be within a certain temperature range? Is 32-50 degrees too cold? Do low temps just make the cooking process slower? Should all of the soil mix be laid out on a tarp, or can i put it in large rubbermaid containers with the lids off and keep it inside my house where it's warmer? 60-70 degrees... (these containers are 30 gallon size, measuring 20 inches wide, 32 inches long, and 17 inches high)
With this as my base, should anything else be added that's missing?
When "cooking" the soil, should it be within a certain temperature range? Is 32-50 degrees too cold? Do low temps just make the cooking process slower? Should all of the soil mix be laid out on a tarp, or can i put it in large rubbermaid containers with the lids off and keep it inside my house where it's warmer? 60-70 degrees... (these containers are 30 gallon size, measuring 20 inches wide, 32 inches long, and 17 inches high)
Mad Hamish
Well-Known Member
Containers are fine but you have to pour it all out and turn it well every ten days I learned. Temp wize a little warmer is better but your soil will still 'cook' unless it freezes over. Even in low temps with coots mix you don't need much cook time
Why would you need to pour it out and turn it well every ten days?
Using all of those amendments I have never let my soil cook. Buy some dutch clover and innoculant. Plant two days ahead of your cannabis plant and you are good
Chronikool
Well-Known Member
BLACK!
Planning on diluting this gunk to the colour of light amber tea before applying to soil - sound about right?
goodjoint
Well-Known Member
This is my plan, how does it look? Am I missing anything or adding too much or too little of anything?
If I can't find local worm castings, should I just replace them with more horse manure compost?
- 3 cubic feet of Perlite
- 3 cubic feet of Sphagnum Peat Moss
- 2 cubic feet of compost from local chemical-free horse manure (aged 6 months)
- 1 cubic foot of worm castings (can't find local, may need to order online. I just started my own worm farm though.)
- 1 cubic foot of backyard forest soil (underneath/near an old growth cedar tree)
1 "Large Box" of ClackamasCoots Style Nutrient Kit: http://buildasoil.com/products/the-clackamas-kit
Mix and water with an AACT.
Let "cook" for 2-3 weeks.
I have some current plants in 1 gallon pots that I may transplant them into this new soil without "cooking" - bad idea?
Thanks all!
If I can't find local worm castings, should I just replace them with more horse manure compost?
- 3 cubic feet of Perlite
- 3 cubic feet of Sphagnum Peat Moss
- 2 cubic feet of compost from local chemical-free horse manure (aged 6 months)
- 1 cubic foot of worm castings (can't find local, may need to order online. I just started my own worm farm though.)
- 1 cubic foot of backyard forest soil (underneath/near an old growth cedar tree)
1 "Large Box" of ClackamasCoots Style Nutrient Kit: http://buildasoil.com/products/the-clackamas-kit
Mix and water with an AACT.
Let "cook" for 2-3 weeks.
I have some current plants in 1 gallon pots that I may transplant them into this new soil without "cooking" - bad idea?
Thanks all!
Midwest Weedist
Well-Known Member
If you're using build a soil, then just grab their castings
Bueno Time
Well-Known Member
Im using the clackamas style recipe from BAS and I let my soil mix "cook" for at least a month but thats how long it sits until I need it, not saying its necessary to cook that long. I wet the mix with lacto b serum and a little molasses and then usually any leftover ACT I happen to make during the cooking process.
I agree with grabbing castings from BAS if you cant find local, worm power ewc is some of the best you can buy commercially and thats what BAS sells and I have in my current mix until I can harvest my own from bins I started about 5-6 weeks ago (so some time yet).
Good choice on soil mix recipe.
I agree with grabbing castings from BAS if you cant find local, worm power ewc is some of the best you can buy commercially and thats what BAS sells and I have in my current mix until I can harvest my own from bins I started about 5-6 weeks ago (so some time yet).
Good choice on soil mix recipe.
Midwest Weedist
Well-Known Member
I've got to say that rols notill has won my heart already. I used to use plain old bagged Fox farm soil and nutes. Now I cringe at the idea of synthetic anything.
I've never truly mixed my own super soil or anything like that before my current grow, so this is my first experience with super soils, rols, and notill. I will never go back now that I've seen the light! Lol
I have a little (Not very controlled, lots of variables) experiment going on between 6 Scotts og ladies. They're currently on day ~8 - 11 of flower. They've been under 12 / 12 from seed and germinated on ~Nov 1st. The two planters on the right are in the 3gallon air planters with my super soil mix. The lady in the top left is in a ~3 gallon bucket with 100+ 8th in holes with the remaining root structure of a northernlights lady grown in FF soil that was fed no synthetic ferts, amended at 50:50 with my super soil mix. And the last lady is in a bagged soil mix (Fox Farm OF & HF) with some espoma plant tone, azomite, and some kelp meal, possibly some fulfic acid, I can't remember now. As I expected the best results so far are from the super soil mix I made.
After I chop these ladies, I'll be upgrading to 15 gallon planters and adding a few more amendments to the mix.
Awesome genetics from RareDankness makes growing a breeze!
I've never truly mixed my own super soil or anything like that before my current grow, so this is my first experience with super soils, rols, and notill. I will never go back now that I've seen the light! Lol
I have a little (Not very controlled, lots of variables) experiment going on between 6 Scotts og ladies. They're currently on day ~8 - 11 of flower. They've been under 12 / 12 from seed and germinated on ~Nov 1st. The two planters on the right are in the 3gallon air planters with my super soil mix. The lady in the top left is in a ~3 gallon bucket with 100+ 8th in holes with the remaining root structure of a northernlights lady grown in FF soil that was fed no synthetic ferts, amended at 50:50 with my super soil mix. And the last lady is in a bagged soil mix (Fox Farm OF & HF) with some espoma plant tone, azomite, and some kelp meal, possibly some fulfic acid, I can't remember now. As I expected the best results so far are from the super soil mix I made.
After I chop these ladies, I'll be upgrading to 15 gallon planters and adding a few more amendments to the mix.
Awesome genetics from RareDankness makes growing a breeze!
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