churchhaze
Well-Known Member
I seem to have put 60mm instead of 6mm for the length of my screws. They are obviously not 60mm long, but 6mm long. Sorry about that!!
DIY 80W vero 18 UFO killer
- Thread starter churchhaze
- Start date
churchhaze
Well-Known Member
Did you use the screws that came with the picture hangers? From your pictures, it looks like you used wood screws in your aluminum fins. They're not loose at all?
One reason I'd recommend against just screwing them in is what you were warning off earlier. Stainless machine screws are relatively soft and the heads could sheer right off trying to tap with them. The soft screw threads may have a hard time cutting through aluminum. (tapping through the fins using screws might not be a big deal, but I wouldn't even try it on the base)
The tap bit is very hard steel, and came with the perfect size hardened drill bit, which cuts through aluminum like [metallic] butter.
One reason I'd recommend against just screwing them in is what you were warning off earlier. Stainless machine screws are relatively soft and the heads could sheer right off trying to tap with them. The soft screw threads may have a hard time cutting through aluminum. (tapping through the fins using screws might not be a big deal, but I wouldn't even try it on the base)
The tap bit is very hard steel, and came with the perfect size hardened drill bit, which cuts through aluminum like [metallic] butter.
I didn't tap the hanger holes. Just predrilled and screwed in with hex head metal screws. Pretty much threads itself that way.
Leds could be done the same way but a more elegant tap is nice...
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Positivity
Well-Known Member
It's not really tapping much. The hole I drill is very close to the final screw size. It doesn't take much torque to get the screw through. Can't remember if they are wood or metal but they are completely secure and solid. Screw in and out easily and tightly.
I tried it a few different ways. Threading, predrilled, and screw with a nut and lock washer. In the end I just went with the predrilled and screw in. Really fast and easy for me...seems plenty secure. Literally takes a minute..
I try and find ways to speed things up and that was one of them. Another example would be tapping. I used to use a press...now I punch it and drill it free hand. If I was going to make a commercial light or something I'd be more precise but for getting a light up and running I find this way more than good enough.
epicfail
Well-Known Member
I used #4-40 screws the same way you did without the nuts and they are working just fine. I was going to use the same holders that I saw positivity was using also but ended up making my own. I incorporated a "foot" into the holder so if I need to put them down I can do so without the COBs touching the ground.
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giggywatts
Well-Known Member
nice setup church, can't wait to see it in action. peace
churchhaze
Well-Known Member
The drivers have arrived, and 2 panels finished, short of wiring. Last update will be when the units are wired and bright. I tested each cob with 3x9V batteries in series to make sure everything turns on.
churchhaze
Well-Known Member
1 unit operating. It's hard to show how bright it is using a camera because of auto-brightness adjust. I could make it look bright or dark depending on which part i have the iphone focus on.
Without a fan, it gets to about 75C on the base near the eggs. (very crude heat sensor connectoed to multimeter). With stanley blower on it, it goes to about 30-40C. (i really don't trust the meter)
Without a fan, it gets to about 75C on the base near the eggs. (very crude heat sensor connectoed to multimeter). With stanley blower on it, it goes to about 30-40C. (i really don't trust the meter)
torontoke
Well-Known Member
Nice man
I think im goin to steal bits and pieces from everyone build. Thanks for directing me to your build.
For everyone asking about the drilling and tapping. I spent 20 plus years building industrial machinery and i can tell you from experience after drilling and tapping millions of holes in every type of metal that aluminum is one of the softest and easiest to tap. Most taps come with the proper size drill bit or have the drill size printed in the side. Hand tapping alum is a way better idea than a drill press. Most people would end up breaking taps in a press.
I think im goin to steal bits and pieces from everyone build. Thanks for directing me to your build.
For everyone asking about the drilling and tapping. I spent 20 plus years building industrial machinery and i can tell you from experience after drilling and tapping millions of holes in every type of metal that aluminum is one of the softest and easiest to tap. Most taps come with the proper size drill bit or have the drill size printed in the side. Hand tapping alum is a way better idea than a drill press. Most people would end up breaking taps in a press.
mc130p
Well-Known Member
My taps must have been pieces of crap...I broke my 4-40 with a hand tap on the initial threading and was able to gently use my 6-32....can you recommend a brand?
Positivity
Well-Known Member
I used a cheap one from amazon..comes in a 3 pack. Did you use oil? Should cut like butter but it needs some lube
Mine only break when I don't drill through enough and it bottoms out..otherwise very little resistance
mc130p
Well-Known Member
Yeah, I used oil.... It was super cheap on amazon. I just gave it a little twist and it snapped in half. I got a 6-32 from Home Depot and it works well...much better than the 6-32 that came with the 4-40. I can see the bit twisting when I try to tap a hole. It was a copper heat sink, but idk if that matters much. I thought copper was pretty soft.
churchhaze
Well-Known Member
I broke an M3 tap because I was using a hand drill and went in too far. (hole wasn't drilled deep enough for the tapping).
Since then, I've been using the same hand drill more carefully (with slip clutch set to slippiest setting) and haven't had any more problems. I haven't used the hand chuck since then. I just pull the trigger very softly in short bursts. tap tap, reverse, tap, tap, reverse, tap tap, reverse. (you obviously need a variable speed trigger and slip clutch for this)
A hardened drill bit is also a must (came with my tap). I tried to use the same bit with my "regular" drill bits, and it would barely drill. The hardened bit that came with the tap cut like butter. Since I know very little about machinery, I'd stick to listening to the people who claim to have been doing it their whole life. This is just my experience drilling about 60 holes total in my life.
Since then, I've been using the same hand drill more carefully (with slip clutch set to slippiest setting) and haven't had any more problems. I haven't used the hand chuck since then. I just pull the trigger very softly in short bursts. tap tap, reverse, tap, tap, reverse, tap tap, reverse. (you obviously need a variable speed trigger and slip clutch for this)
A hardened drill bit is also a must (came with my tap). I tried to use the same bit with my "regular" drill bits, and it would barely drill. The hardened bit that came with the tap cut like butter. Since I know very little about machinery, I'd stick to listening to the people who claim to have been doing it their whole life. This is just my experience drilling about 60 holes total in my life.
epicfail
Well-Known Member
Honestly I have tapped thousands of holes for work and almost always when somebody new does it they break the tap. Its very common if you have never done it before but with oil and only a little practice it become very easy. Just order more than 1 if you're new because you are bound to break it.
The clutch on a hand drill is what I use also, don't be stingy with the oil and take it slow.
The clutch on a hand drill is what I use also, don't be stingy with the oil and take it slow.
guod
Well-Known Member
Glory hole taping
churchhaze
Well-Known Member
The heat is like 80W+80W+80W (240W). About 65% of that heat comes from the heatsinks, while the other 35% comes from emitted photons becoming absorbed by the plant and walls. I still have no fans on the heat sinks, but that's because I've been swamped. I design things for efficiency, but then in practice, if it works, i tend to leave it be while looking to design around the low hanging fruit.
The design is the same as before; a bunch of white leds spread out evenly over a 4'x2' canopy.
I do not like to post journals of plants. This thread was meant to be more of an instructional for people wanting yet another option.
The design is the same as before; a bunch of white leds spread out evenly over a 4'x2' canopy.
I do not like to post journals of plants. This thread was meant to be more of an instructional for people wanting yet another option.
churchhaze
Well-Known Member
I tried 3000k vero first, and it worked well, but I was told that 3000k doesn't have enough blue and that I should try 4000k. I went in between and got 3500k.
Honestly, this is where i'm not entirely sure. 3000k worked very well, and 3500k also seems to be working very well, but I'm starting to think I should have went all 3000k. 2700k might be excessive (too much blue converted to wide band emission), but again, I don't actually know which will outperform in practice.
Honestly, this is where i'm not entirely sure. 3000k worked very well, and 3500k also seems to be working very well, but I'm starting to think I should have went all 3000k. 2700k might be excessive (too much blue converted to wide band emission), but again, I don't actually know which will outperform in practice.