alesh
Well-Known Member
Good news for you.
This is from a Vero application note. It's V18 but the same applies to V29 using only 2 screws I suppose.
...All Things Vero...
- Thread starter AquariusPanta
- Start date
This is from a Vero application note. It's V18 but the same applies to V29 using only 2 screws I suppose.
SupraSPL
Well-Known Member
That is true and that is the reason for pressing it hard, to allow it to spread, guaranteeing a thin even layer.When I mount them with a very thin layer that I tried to spread myself, I get the feeling that there are parts that are not as evenly coated and may not be touching down. Seems wasteful but the 30g syringe is enough to mount more than 50 CXA3070s, maybe closer to 75. So it is a small price to pay to be certain you will get great cooling. It would be an interesting test to compare temp droop of a thick layer vs thin layer vs thick pressed layer.
I wouldn't worry about it too much. I take apart many of the LED bulbs and they all have terrible connections to heatsinks, with crappy glue etc. They run hotter than hell but last forever. Usually the drivers inside the bulbs die before the LEDs ever will, and that's because they're inclosed in that flaming hell heatsink lol. Which we aren't doing with cobs.
I'd love to see that test, thick vs thin. I'm thinking paste isn't even close to being thermally conductive as the alum. so a thick layer wouldn't be that great, I could be wrong.
AquariusPanta
Well-Known Member
Abiqua
Well-Known Member
They all have them......they work.....
alef
Active Member
Dear mates,
I finally did it. 3 vero 29 lights (2*30K + 1*40K) and one dimmable driver (HLG-240H-42B). I know that the connection is not optimal and it is better to run them continuosly but I was not able to find the cheap way to do so...
The parameters of the driver are:
U = 42V
I = 5.6A
So each LED gets almoust 2A which is an optimal load. The total strength of light is approximately 27000. I have to run the full cycle to teat it and I am planning to compile the luxometr to test the parameters.
I finally did it. 3 vero 29 lights (2*30K + 1*40K) and one dimmable driver (HLG-240H-42B). I know that the connection is not optimal and it is better to run them continuosly but I was not able to find the cheap way to do so...
The parameters of the driver are:
U = 42V
I = 5.6A
So each LED gets almoust 2A which is an optimal load. The total strength of light is approximately 27000. I have to run the full cycle to teat it and I am planning to compile the luxometr to test the parameters.
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Scornfulheal
Active Member
5000k or 4000k for the middle light out of 5, and for sole use during seed/veg?I think 700mA is a good cost compromise for Vero18. You could put a 5000K vero18 in the center to help reduce stretch (AP beat me to it). That would give you a total of 100W or about 50W/ft². That is very high intensity but if you can keep it fed, why not.
You could use a HLG-120H-C700B which would give you a dimming knob, you could gradually increase as the plant gets established. It can run all 5 Veros and you get 92-93% driver efficiency in one step. You could save a few $ if you went with 600-700mA generic drivers, something like this or this about 85-87% efficient. There are some on eBay that ship from US and cheap.
I am going to grab the Mean Well driver, but put a switch between the driver and the 4 3500k Vero 18's, while running the 4/5000k Vero 18 straight (always on with driver). All 5 lights would dim on the same power level, but I would have the option to shut off or turn on the "flower" section with a switch.
Scornfulheal
Active Member
And should I run a different temp light in the middle/veg? Or should I go all 3500k? It probably doesnt matter that much eh? Especially in my small application. Or I could be completely wrong, if it has a drastic affect on stretch management.
alef
Active Member
actually not pressing as this can damage plastic surround. it is better to turn the COB while pressing it. It will move the extra grase off. it is better to use a credit card to put it on the heeatsink.
churchhaze
Well-Known Member
I have a hard choice to make. I need another 200-250W dissipation of cobs, right now, but prices still haven't been reduced to compensate for all the new models entering the market...
Waiting even a few weeks could mean losing more money than I would just sucking it up and paying current prices for vero 18. I suspect a price drop to 9 dollars a vero 18 to compete with the new cxb beasts.
Waiting even a few weeks could mean losing more money than I would just sucking it up and paying current prices for vero 18. I suspect a price drop to 9 dollars a vero 18 to compete with the new cxb beasts.
SomeGuy
Well-Known Member
I wouldnt mind this either. IME the v18 does great. I am going to take supras suggestion and use 6 v18 @ 1050ma on the one driver for each bar. Rebuild in summer.
churchhaze
Well-Known Member
Good plan waiting till the summer. Inefficient LEDs is the least of my worries right now. I wish i had enough leds to not need a heater/fire
I wouldnt mind this either. IME the v18 does great. I am going to take supras suggestion and use 6 v18 @ 1050ma on the one driver for each bar. Rebuild in summer.
SomeGuy
Well-Known Member
Well... Im in Socal so no cold issues in reality. Just cycle timing. I usually shut down a few months in summer because its just too hot. I just keep veggers going and do a few outside to see me through. Might keep a few this year with the leds though. Stay TONS cooler.
stardustsailor
Well-Known Member
Ain't ink ,is laser etched ..
With a thermal conductivity of ~230 W/K.m ,I would not worry about the 2D graphic ...
If instead the therm. conductivity was say ~35 W/K.m,like with ceramic substrate COBs ,
then yes a totally flat and smooth surface would be obligatory ..
nvhak49
Well-Known Member
Been thinking about putting some vero cobs together for clone vegging and mothers. Someone told me he uses vero 18 and runs them at 350mA. I'm new to all of this I want to make some for my flowering tent but I'll probably go with Cree CXA 3070. But for my first DIY Ill keep it cheap and simple. Do you guys think vero 18 5000k ran at 350ml would be good for vegging and clones?