Grow cabinet

[NorthernHize]

I myself would make it entirely of wood. It is easier so insulate, I go crazy when temps go crazy. Like Abiqua I love LEDs, your space calls for about 750w so I would put about 15 good cobs in there $600 dollar range good drivers $2-250 heat sinks about $400 or about $200 for little individual computer heat sinks and fans, but that's a pain in the ass with all those cobs. Let's see about $600 to build the actual cabinet. Another $400 for ventilation ducting and fans included. I would have try hard to get this over $2500.

 

[beginner420]

I myself would make it entirely of wood. It is easier so insulate, I go crazy when temps go crazy. Like Abiqua I love LEDs, your space calls for about 750w so I would put about 15 good cobs in there $600 dollar range good drivers $2-250 heat sinks about $400 or about $200 for little individual computer heat sinks and fans, but that's a pain in the ass with all those cobs. Let's see about $600 to build the actual cabinet. Another $400 for ventilation ducting and fans included. I would have try hard to get this over $2500.

I have no idea where to look for the parts to build an led light, what materials do you need to put them together? I was kinda just thinkin of buying an already made one


Sent from my HTC One using Rollitup mobile app

 

[NorthernHize]

I have no idea where to look for the parts to build an led light, what materials do you need to put them together? I was kinda just thinkin of buying an already made one

Sent from my HTC One using Rollitup mobile app

If you consider yourself a handy person you can build the light yourself fairly easy. You would have to spend $2000 on a panel that would equal what you could build yourself

 

[NorthernHize]

I'm sure Abiqua and myself can come up with a parts list if you like. Not to mention a bought panel would not have the output, spread and adjustability of a custom made one

 

[beginner420]

I'm sure Abiqua and myself can come up with a parts list if you like. Not to mention a bought panel would not have the output, spread and adjustability of a custom made one

Ya that would be awesome and very much appreciated, sounds like a fun project

Sent from my HTC One using Rollitup mobile app

 

[NorthernHize]

Ya that would be awesome and very much appreciated, sounds like a fun project

Sent from my HTC One using Rollitup mobile app

building your own led grow light are great projects

 

[NorthernHize]

Cree CXA3070 x 15 or 16 of them don't forget to buy the holders for them as well!
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Cree-Inc/CXA3070-0000-000N00Z230F/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMu4Prknbu83y0bObCPMgyC/l6eQby5L/DGQDb9TViwpOg==

Power supply
Meanwell HLG-185H-C1050B. >92% efficiency, dimmable, and it can drive from 3-5 CXA3070s at that efficiency. you will need 3-4 of them, I would say 3 if you purchase 15 cxa's or 4 if you purchase 16 of them.

Heat sink
http://www.heatsinkusa.com/4-600-wide-extruded-aluminum-heatsink/. I would buy 4 36" pieces.

That's a good start to the light.

 

[NorthernHize]

oops I forgot you will need fans for the heat sinks, no passive cooling for this badass! I will work on that tomorrow. I will also put together a list for using vero 29's as well ( a different led ). give some other people a chance to chime in with their recommendations.

 

[SSS2015]

NorthernHize I just looked up the lights you mentioned.

I'm looking at building a small flowering and small veging room, and it'll be built inside a shed. The grow boxes will be approx 1.2m deep x 1m wide x 1.65 tall, each.

I'm really worried about the head and extracting it out of the box then the shed.

I'm not skilled with electronics, but I have a mate who is.

Is it worth going LED and building it myself? to avoid the heat problem?

I need two lights, is there a thread here about building your own led's? how much light am i going to need for flowering and veging? how much is an approximate cost for building the lights for the above rooms please?

 

[Abiqua]

This how I would start......

Figure out your exact dimensions you want....Final Proof Both veg and flower....

and then....

For Veg, you could get away with as little as 4 watts / sq. ft.....the ones I rely on for data and input like Supra, are using cloning stations with 2 watts /per sq. ft and up to 8 watts per sq. ft.....going for increased wattage will NEVER hurt, that is up to you....

For Flower, reports seem to favor no more than 35-40 watts / sq ft of light.....especially when using Vero 29's or Cree CXA 3070 and also the Cree big boys the CXA3570....


Now when you have an a final tally of your space, just multiply by the numbers...to get a rough idea of your total wattage from total square feet.....




Led

The diodes themselves are ran off DC constant current. The voltage will slight fluctuate either up or down depending on the temperature [temp droop] and this is why heatsinks [passive] or heatsinks/fans [active] are needed for stable cooling....basically like a CPU of a computer....

This is the general rule of thumb, as your amperage decreases, so does your voltage....Mainly because less heat is being produce because of less power and light is being produced more efficiently as byproduct of lower currents....

Datasheets datasheets datasheets, are Extremely crucial!!!!!! They will tell you exactly how much voltage is being produced at a certain current between the minimum and maximum amounts of current that the LED can handle.....

Typical currents for the high powered COBs are usually:
350mA
500mA
700mA
900mA
1050 mA [1.05 amps]
1400 mA


drivers

The drivers convert 110/220 AC to DC voltage/current. The LED's require constant current [Amps] while voltage will fluctuate over a slight range due to heat.....blah blah blah.....

Since voltage will fluctuate to some degree, I like to size drivers that have slightly more voltage than a cob requires.....

So for instance the Cree CXA running @ 500mA requires 34.2 volts @50c....while the same cob running @1.4amps needs just over 36 volts....



Drivers these days can also be dimmed with no adverse affects to LED performance....take my setup 2x Vero 29 3ks and 2x CXA 3K AB's....I will be running them initially @ 600mA dimmed and be using about 80 watts, averaging 46% efficiency....So .46 x 80 watts = 36.8 PAR watts....but the same diodes undimmed can run well over 100 watts apiece and still average over 30% efficiency [some of the HID's are here] and push 400w's....




Okay...ramble ramble.....I just feel like, if you are going to build, understand....hopefully this helps and you are the inquisitive type, because it really isn't all that difficult it just has to sink in......

Buying Cobs

I like Bridgelux Vero 29 3000K for flowering [and they will veg too, if needed] and the Cree CXA3070 AB 3000K like mentioned above and of course by @NorthernHize

I bought my vero's at Digikey
http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en?s=44064&FV=fff40008,fff80354,fffc03d0&mnonly=0&newproducts=0&ColumnSort=0&page=1&quantity=0&ptm=0&fid=0&pageSize=25

I bought my Cree's from Amelia Liu on AliExpress, because they are are bitch to find in the states for a reasonable price....
[Now I cant find the link!!!!!]

Kingbrite @REALSTYLES can be vouched for as well
http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/CREE-3070-Original-CREE-CXA3070-diodes/324035_32285685458.html

I like 5K spectrums for Vegging..The Vero's might be a better choice fiscally, especially something like the 5k Vero 18...Like I said earlier, you don't need a huge amount of wattage for great veg.....


Buying Drivers

I also mentioned earlier, maybe just babble, but scaling the power of the LED, thru dimming....

I like the Meanwell HLG's and the HLG 185H-xxx-C are the most desirable....High efficiency [91-94%] and will drive multiple cobs in series, depending on Current model selected....These can be dimmed either digitally thru PWM or analog thru power supply and Pot resistor or do nothing at all and don't dim them. Still one of the most efficienct and highest quality drivers that are used.....

There are a few:

1.4amps @ `132volts
1050mA @ 176 volts
700ma @ 264
500ma 370
For example: You decide your flower room ends up 6 sq ft and you want to run 30 watts per sq. ft...180 watts.....If we take the 1050max 176 volts example = 185 watts...Perfect...You can run 4 Cree CXA3070's on this one driver and have it equal nearly 180 watts....Reference the Cree sheet above....@1050mA's you will need 152 volts [and there are 176 available]....just under 170 watts, so a little lower, but I hope that illustrates the calculation

I also like these Meanwell LPC 150 drivers...They could run a few Cobs in series and are about half of the HLG line and if you don't want dimming, they could be a nice pick up
http://www.powergatellc.com/mean-well-LPC-150-power-supply.html

The Meanwell LPC 1400- 60 is popular to run a single Vero 29 or Cree 3070 @ 1.4 amps
http://www.trcelectronics.com/View/Mean-Well/LPC-60-1400.shtml

Going the cheapest is some Ebay finds

50watters
http://www.ebay.com/itm/50-W-Watt-High-Power-LED-Driver-AC90V-265V-50-60HZ-Waterproof-/181578939219?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a46f2bb53



Heatsinks

Active or passive or semi active?

The arctic 11+ CPU coolers are rock solid...they will easily handle over a 100 watts each...
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835186070

but if you want something more flexible....lots are using Extruded heatsinks from Heatsink usa
www.heatsinkusa.com

And here are the #'s calculated by SupraSpl for each of the various lengths



Here is how we calculate using the above numbers...The general rule of thumb is use 25cm2 of heatsink surface when using active cooling and 75 centimeters squared for Passive cooling...

So for instance the 1st amount is 2.03" and for every inch there is 80 cm2 of surface length...So every inch would be enough cooling for 3 watts if actively cooled and just over 1 watt if passively cooled....

10 inches would be good for 30 watts [active] and so on.....

Use ball bearing fans if thinking about constructing this way...Sleeve bearings are cheap and will spit oil mounted horizontally and then DIE!

 

[NorthernHize]

NorthernHize I just looked up the lights you mentioned.

I'm looking at building a small flowering and small veging room, and it'll be built inside a shed. The grow boxes will be approx 1.2m deep x 1m wide x 1.65 tall, each.

I'm really worried about the head and extracting it out of the box then the shed.

I'm not skilled with electronics, but I have a mate who is.

Is it worth going LED and building it myself? to avoid the heat problem?

I need two lights, is there a thread here about building your own led's? how much light am i going to need for flowering and veging? how much is an approximate cost for building the lights for the above rooms please?

Sorry I haven't gotten back to you. It is absolutely worth building them yourself. Especially if heat is going to. E a problem for you. If you look under the indoor growing forum here there a a sub for led growing and light building. If you need more help let me know.

 

[NorthernHize]

This how I would start......

Figure out your exact dimensions you want....Final Proof Both veg and flower....

and then....

For Veg, you could get away with as little as 4 watts / sq. ft.....the ones I rely on for data and input like Supra, are using cloning stations with 2 watts /per sq. ft and up to 8 watts per sq. ft.....going for increased wattage will NEVER hurt, that is up to you....

For Flower, reports seem to favor no more than 35-40 watts / sq ft of light.....especially when using Vero 29's or Cree CXA 3070 and also the Cree big boys the CXA3570....


Now when you have an a final tally of your space, just multiply by the numbers...to get a rough idea of your total wattage from total square feet.....




Led

The diodes themselves are ran off DC constant current. The voltage will slight fluctuate either up or down depending on the temperature [temp droop] and this is why heatsinks [passive] or heatsinks/fans [active] are needed for stable cooling....basically like a CPU of a computer....

This is the general rule of thumb, as your amperage decreases, so does your voltage....Mainly because less heat is being produce because of less power and light is being produced more efficiently as byproduct of lower currents....

Datasheets datasheets datasheets, are Extremely crucial!!!!!! They will tell you exactly how much voltage is being produced at a certain current between the minimum and maximum amounts of current that the LED can handle.....

Typical currents for the high powered COBs are usually:
350mA
500mA
700mA
900mA
1050 mA [1.05 amps]
1400 mA


drivers

The drivers convert 110/220 AC to DC voltage/current. The LED's require constant current [Amps] while voltage will fluctuate over a slight range due to heat.....blah blah blah.....

Since voltage will fluctuate to some degree, I like to size drivers that have slightly more voltage than a cob requires.....

So for instance the Cree CXA running @ 500mA requires 34.2 volts @50c....while the same cob running @1.4amps needs just over 36 volts....
View attachment 3363475


Drivers these days can also be dimmed with no adverse affects to LED performance....take my setup 2x Vero 29 3ks and 2x CXA 3K AB's....I will be running them initially @ 600mA dimmed and be using about 80 watts, averaging 46% efficiency....So .46 x 80 watts = 36.8 PAR watts....but the same diodes undimmed can run well over 100 watts apiece and still average over 30% efficiency [some of the HID's are here] and push 400w's....




Okay...ramble ramble.....I just feel like, if you are going to build, understand....hopefully this helps and you are the inquisitive type, because it really isn't all that difficult it just has to sink in......

Buying Cobs

I like Bridgelux Vero 29 3000K for flowering [and they will veg too, if needed] and the Cree CXA3070 AB 3000K like mentioned above and of course by @NorthernHize

I bought my vero's at Digikey
http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en?s=44064&FV=fff40008,fff80354,fffc03d0&mnonly=0&newproducts=0&ColumnSort=0&page=1&quantity=0&ptm=0&fid=0&pageSize=25

I bought my Cree's from Amelia Liu on AliExpress, because they are are bitch to find in the states for a reasonable price....
[Now I cant find the link!!!!!]

Kingbrite @REALSTYLES can be vouched for as well
http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/CREE-3070-Original-CREE-CXA3070-diodes/324035_32285685458.html

I like 5K spectrums for Vegging..The Vero's might be a better choice fiscally, especially something like the 5k Vero 18...Like I said earlier, you don't need a huge amount of wattage for great veg.....


Buying Drivers

I also mentioned earlier, maybe just babble, but scaling the power of the LED, thru dimming....

I like the Meanwell HLG's and the HLG 185H-xxx-C are the most desirable....High efficiency [91-94%] and will drive multiple cobs in series, depending on Current model selected....These can be dimmed either digitally thru PWM or analog thru power supply and Pot resistor or do nothing at all and don't dim them. Still one of the most efficienct and highest quality drivers that are used.....

There are a few:

1.4amps @ `132volts
1050mA @ 176 volts
700ma @ 264
500ma 370
For example: You decide your flower room ends up 6 sq ft and you want to run 30 watts per sq. ft...180 watts.....If we take the 1050max 176 volts example = 185 watts...Perfect...You can run 4 Cree CXA3070's on this one driver and have it equal nearly 180 watts....Reference the Cree sheet above....@1050mA's you will need 152 volts [and there are 176 available]....just under 170 watts, so a little lower, but I hope that illustrates the calculation

I also like these Meanwell LPC 150 drivers...They could run a few Cobs in series and are about half of the HLG line and if you don't want dimming, they could be a nice pick up
http://www.powergatellc.com/mean-well-LPC-150-power-supply.html

The Meanwell LPC 1400- 60 is popular to run a single Vero 29 or Cree 3070 @ 1.4 amps
http://www.trcelectronics.com/View/Mean-Well/LPC-60-1400.shtml

Going the cheapest is some Ebay finds

50watters
http://www.ebay.com/itm/50-W-Watt-High-Power-LED-Driver-AC90V-265V-50-60HZ-Waterproof-/181578939219?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a46f2bb53



Heatsinks

Active or passive or semi active?

The arctic 11+ CPU coolers are rock solid...they will easily handle over a 100 watts each...
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835186070

but if you want something more flexible....lots are using Extruded heatsinks from Heatsink usa
www.heatsinkusa.com

And here are the #'s calculated by SupraSpl for each of the various lengths
View attachment 3363475


Here is how we calculate using the above numbers...The general rule of thumb is use 25cm2 of heatsink surface when using active cooling and 75 centimeters squared for Passive cooling...

So for instance the 1st amount is 2.03" and for every inch there is 80 cm2 of surface length...So every inch would be enough cooling for 3 watts if actively cooled and just over 1 watt if passively cooled....

10 inches would be good for 30 watts [active] and so on.....

Use ball bearing fans if thinking about constructing this way...Sleeve bearings are cheap and will spit oil mounted horizontally and then DIE!

And in the exact fashion I thought you would put my post to shame you did! I still have to step my game up a little bit and reading post's like yours helps.

 

[Tim Fox]

And in the exact fashion I thought you would put my post to shame you did! I still have to step my game up a little bit and reading post's like yours helps.

Ya get in in gear already,, lol, you 2 are such an insperation around here, I tail along in your wake and learn so much,,, here have a joint on me!!!