DIY CXB2530 3000K 80cri U2 bin (Vero Killers!)

bicit

bicit

Well-Known Member
ttystikk said:
If hydro was the only thing I was playing with, I'd be inclined to agree.

Since this discussion is happening in a thread about highly advanced light sources, it's safe to say that my interests run a bit further than salty water.

Frankly, I DON'T want the uncontrolled variables of a microherd involved in my research, as I have entirely enough variables to deal with already.

I'm not dissing your approach, I'm just explaining why I chose the route I did.
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Interesting, my reasoning is exactly opposite. My interest lies in the microherd.

To each their own as they say :P
 
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churchhaze

Well-Known Member
Hydro definitely makes it easier to control experiments, especially with DIY hydro nutes.

A tool like hydrobuddy makes it very easy to see what adding a gram of calcium nitrate will do to ppm Ca and N, for example. It's useful for keeping P within the 30-60ppm range, and keeping a proper/controlled K:Ca:Mg ratio.

I've experimented with different levels of iron, manganese, boron, etc. I try to keep iron toward the high side (5ppm), which I think really helps with high intensity light to prevent bleaching. (i've never had leds turn my tops white from too much intensity, only brown/black)
 
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churchhaze

Well-Known Member
I've been using the same mix #17 with very little variation throughout the last few grows, so I know that any result I get will not be skewed by changes in my formula. Mix #17 is pretty dialed in as you'd imagine from the iteration number, so there's really no need to change it. What I do need to change is my reservoirs more often... (lazy) This is where RDWC would help I think, since I could just refill in one place..

mix17_results.png

(ignore the prices, the ingredients are all set to default of 100 dollars a kilogram)
 
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churchhaze

Well-Known Member
SupraSPL said:
I agree lumens can be very misleading, I prefer to think in terms of PAR W/ft². At the end of the day it is about quality and yield. You can pack as much intensity in the canopy as you like with COB, much higher than 1000HPS can reach, but the law of diminishing returns kicks in in several ways if you go too high. I run at what I consider a good compromise for my setup, 15 PAR W/ft². That is about the same as running a 1000W HPS in a 4X4. Some of the indicas can get large dense buds to the point that I have to beware of white mold in the center of the biggest colas, without overfert, even during the dry season. I don't usually run dense indicas anyway, but it is worth mentioning.
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ttystikk said:
I'm looking for about 50% more PAR than your value, and I'm hoping that the CRI will also help with trich production... not that I'm having any trouble in that department now, even with HPS lighting alone.

I am in the peculiar position of desiring a bit more heat... my plants are so big and vigorous that even 4kW of HPS isn't keeping the room warm enough, due to a truly incredible rate of transpiration.
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To touch on this, I agree with Supra that 15 PAR W/sqft is really intense and imo good for about 3-4 foot tall plants with a traditional canopy (vs vert setup). My vero 18 using 240W dissipated only uses around 12 PAR W/sqft and keeps the canopy nice and warm from radiant heat... (too warm. It pulled up a LOT of water).

I feel like in a vert setup, 12 PAR W/sqft of 3000k 80cri SPD would be the perfect intensity for low profile overhead light before you start crisping the tops, while 3-5 PAR W/sqft would be a good bonus for side lighting. I guess I don't really know how vert setups work.. lol.. probably different with cobs.

Once my budget is back together, I will think of putting in side lighting in the tents. I want to find a way to use the 12" profile in a vertical orientation in short lengths (5 inches). There's room for about 2-3 PAR W/sqft expansion within my footprints'.
 
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ttystikk

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
churchhaze said:
Hydro definitely makes it easier to control experiments, especially with DIY hydro nutes.

A tool like hydrobuddy makes it very easy to see what adding a gram of calcium nitrate will do to ppm Ca and N, for example. It's useful for keeping P within the 30-60ppm range, and keeping a proper/controlled K:Ca:Mg ratio.

I've experimented with different levels of iron, manganese, boron, etc. I try to keep iron toward the high side (5ppm), which I think really helps with high intensity light to prevent bleaching. (i've never had leds turn my tops white from too much intensity, only brown/black)
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Does hydrobuddy cost anything? Is it a website, an app?
 
ttystikk

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
REALSTYLES said:
I can help as well. I was growing with the Current Culture http://cch2o.com/products/hydroponic-systems/uc4xl/ for the dispensary in one of the rooms. I had 3 flower and 1 veg room
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My system is so far ahead of Current Crackheads in both cost and performance that I'd be embarrassed to let you spend your money on them.

And that's just the RDWC system; what I've been doing ABOVE the waterline is even more interesting!
 
ttystikk

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
churchhaze said:
To touch on this, I agree with Supra that 15 PAR W/sqft is really intense and imo good for about 3-4 foot tall plants with a traditional canopy (vs vert setup). My vero 18 using 240W dissipated only uses around 12 PAR W/sqft and keeps the canopy nice and warm from radiant heat... (too warm. It pulled up a LOT of water).

I feel like in a vert setup, 12 PAR W/sqft of 3000k 80cri SPD would be the perfect intensity for low profile overhead light before you start crisping the tops, while 3-5 PAR W/sqft would be a good bonus for side lighting. I guess I don't really know how vert setups work.. lol.. probably different with cobs.

Once my budget is back together, I will think of putting in side lighting in the tents. I want to find a way to use the 12" profile in a vertical orientation in short lengths (5 inches). There's room for about 2-3 PAR W/sqft expansion within my footprints'.
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I'm currently running 2kW of HPS in about 100 ft² of trellis, and getting up to 4 lbs. I'm very sure I'm light limited at this point, which is why I want to be certain that the system I build will be well above the PAR equivalent of 20W/ft² of HPS.
 
ttystikk

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
churchhaze said:
No, it's free and open source, it's just hard to find the download link on the guy's wordpress. The guy who wrote it actually wrote some interesting stuff on his blogs too on nutrients, if you can stand navigating through it.
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Looks like it's on your Microsoft powered desktop- a platform I currently don't have. It's on the list of toys I'm getting soon, tho.
 
ttystikk

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
churchhaze said:
The PAR W/sqft equivalent of 20W/sqft of a fresh hps (assuming 152lm/W - 42% efficient assuming a LER of 360lm/W) is about 8.4 PAR W. (42% of 20W)
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Sounds good- I'm interested in three times that much (25 PAR W/ft²), for reasons of improved yield performance, better light spread throughout the trellis- and frankly, the gearhead in me just wants to see what happens when I crank this bitch up to twelve!
 
ttystikk

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
Abiqua said:
Not to butt in, but what about a Windows Emulator? Mac/Linux/Unix versions all available as far as I know, mostly freeware too :peace:
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You're not butting in at all!

Would such an emulator run- worth a damn- on my Android powered Samsung Galaxy Note II?
 
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churchhaze

Well-Known Member
ttystikk said:
Sounds good- I'm interested in three times that much (25 PAR W/ft²), for reasons of improved yield performance, better light spread throughout the trellis- and frankly, the gearhead in me just wants to see what happens when I crank this bitch up to twelve!
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If you're dealing with 6ft plants, 25 PARW/ft² might be the sweet spot, but for 3 foot or less plants, that's enough intensity to incinerate the poor things!
 
ttystikk

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
churchhaze said:
If you're dealing with 6ft plants, 25 PARW/ft² might be the sweet spot, but for 3 foot or less plants, that's enough intensity to incinerate the poor things!
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They're six feet tall, four feet across and about a foot thick. Each. Times four!

My next test rig will be 150 ft² of trellis lit by 4kW of HPS. I'm still interested in building a COB tower, it will likely be for this setup.
 
Abiqua

Abiqua

Well-Known Member
ttystikk said:
You're not butting in at all!

Would such an emulator run- worth a damn- on my Android powered Samsung Galaxy Note II?
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I dont see why not, as it is basically Linux, but you may have to search around...unfortunately I cant recommend any version, I just know they exist....

I have a bootCD for a Android like laptop GUI, I can hunt down an emu and test it out....problem is I haven't really used it yet and Android was never meant for a laptop :) yet....
 
REALSTYLES

REALSTYLES

Well-Known Member
churchhaze said:
If you're dealing with 6ft plants, 25 PARW/ft² might be the sweet spot, but for 3 foot or less plants, that's enough intensity to incinerate the poor things!
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I almost did that on my seedlings lol. That's why I turned down my lights lol.

Sent from my SM-G900P using Rollitup mobile app
 
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