DIY CXB2530 3000K 80cri U2 bin (Vero Killers!)

caretak3r said:

I was studying the cob efficiency thread earlier. It seems to me that cxb2530s are the way to go over the 3070s. I'm not sure why more people aren't building out units like yours churchhaze.

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It depends on what your goals are.

I originally considered the 2530s for my build but the extra ~16% efficiency, availability of different color temps( I decided on 4000K for reduced stretch due to my very minimal available height) and the relatively small increase in price, compared with the overall build cost sold me on the 3070s.

It's definitely a worthwhile option to consider. I think 3070 and 3590 have more potential for underdriving. If you treated a 3590 like a 2530, for example, and only ran them at 17.5W each, it would grossly outperform the 2530 at 500mA.

I guess you could run the 2530 at 350mA or lower, and run them in parallel strings (unless you can find a 600VDC driver! lol)

churchhaze said:

It's definitely a worthwhile option to consider. I think 3070 and 3590 have more potential for underdriving. If you treated a 3590 like a 2530, for example, and only ran them at 17.5W each, it would grossly outperform the 2530 at 500mA.

I guess you could run the 2530 at 350mA or lower, and run them in parallel strings (unless you can find a 600VDC driver! lol)

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Which is best for underdriving in order to exceed the 50% efficiency mark?

ttystikk said:

Which is best for underdriving in order to exceed the 50% efficiency mark?

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The 3590, but even my current implementation with 2530 , efficiency is already 49%. The 3590 has more total dies on it making it easier to get more total dies in general. That gives it more underdriving potential for less labor.

You can think of the 36V version of the 3590 as a wide 3070, and the 3070 as a wide 2530. Wider meaning more strings, all of equal length.

Just found and read through the thread, sweet build and killer efficiency.

Hey Church, I really enjoyed this thread and your use of 2530's as opposed to the norm around here. The cxa2530 is becoming available faster than (cxa/b 3070/3590) including parts like holders, reflectors and lens. I am really considering building a 22 x 2530 veg/flower light and was wondering what color temp and bins you would suggest.
This is the cheapest I have seen these yet! @$10 ea, building this light could be my best par/$ yet. Wondering if you or anyone else has purchased these chips from Fasttech.

A 94% efficient constant current driver that will go unnamed for safety reasons. (if you can't figure it out on your own, you aren't allowed to know which it is)

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I have been searching this thread and others for a spreadsheet that was created listing driver and cob combinations. I remember an MW HLG that runs 11 cxa2530, can anyone help me out? ty

Growmau5 said:

I have been searching this thread and others for a spreadsheet that was created listing driver and cob combinations. I remember an MW HLG that runs 11 cxa2530, can anyone help me out? ty

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It was the HLG-185-C500. I didn't want to recommend it because it runs at 400V, but so far I'm not dead.

Also, I'm not exactly sure what the specs are on the cxa2530. As for which color temperature/bin, anywhere between 3000-4000k should be good, but also try to get the highest bin obviously. For 3000k it was U2. I'm not exactly sure what the "best" color temperature is within that range. I've seen results showing 4000k to work better, but the amount of results is a bit too sparse to make a good conclusion of which color temperature is best to use. I've personally had great results with 3500k vero, 3000k vero, and 3000k cxb.

...thanks a lot CH ...

...im live wire too...


saludos

Bumping the garbage off page 1