Alcohol turned on me just like cocaine. But, I have to say it was a worse addiction than cocaine for me. At least it was harder to get to the end of it...for me.I always feel dumber, and sometimes angrier, the day after drinking alcohol, even if it's like a single beer.
I have a similar but not-exact reaction to soda as well, so I stick to water, tea, and cranberry juice, with the exception of a beer or shot of whiskey or 7UP here and there.
So about 100 micro watts dissipated by that resistor for the first few minutes, then 0W.
Technically your're right, there are losses on every resistor. But these are negligible in the perspective of the whole driver. I guess that you wouldn't be able to measure any difference between these 2 types of dimming. I'd say that points of PWM are that it's easy to produce and resistant to interference.
No, I like the way that works. It just opened my mind back to capacitors as a timers and all the other functions, including big storage these days. Capacitor banks are replacing batteries in some cases. Ever since PWM was excluded for this exercise, I keep thinking about those acid pencil bomb timers from WW2, for some reason. (not reset-able of course, but very reliable and fairly accurate for time.)
The design challenge rules out a controller. He already did a controller in Arduino.
Me ,too ...
Yeap.Used DipTrace software for tracing ,but manually done the tracing ..Did you trace and etch yourself? Looks real nice....
That's great....I actually got into Diptrace today, but haven't messed around at all.....you sent me the bit for the logic shifter pcb in the zip file for the 5110 Screen....Yeap.Used DipTrace software for tracing ,but manually done the tracing ..
(*For some reason ,I've never used auto-tracing feature of the software..It's not fun ! )
Printed the circuit (reversed ) with a laser printer ,iron it (cloths-iron ) on a blanck pcb
\and then etch it with Sodium Persulfate .
(Although Muriatic Acid + Hydrogen Peroxide is much faster as an etching solution ,but more dangerous ) .
Making my own custom pcbs ,is actually a very easy job.
Drilling them is somewhat tricky ...Especially with drills like the 0.6 mm one ...
Many broken drills ,up till now !
Cheers.
Have you ever tried making a bomb?View attachment 3395284
^^^ The rear panel is completed ,everything wired-up and tested (the relay delay modules).
View attachment 3395285
^^ And the drivers,the fan and the grounding were connected to the rear panel.
The fixture 's "updating " is complete .
How it works :
This fixture has 4X Vero29 ,which can be driven up to 1530 mA each one of them .
Each COB is driven by it's own driver (Meanwell HLP-60H-42) .
The drivers are being dimmed via a rotary switch ,with resistors in series ,at each position .
The rotary switch itself is a "Double pole ,Six positions " .So a pair of drivers is connected in each separate "line"
(Pole) of the switch ,with total resistance being >50K per pole.
When the fixture is powered COB#1 is switched ON .
But not at it's preset power output ,but at a lower level.
(because at it's dimming circuit another driver -being switched off ,for the moment - is parallel connected ,so the-preselected - resistance is actually lower ,
as ,the still switched off driver has about 20K resistance across the Dim circuit pins/wires ).
After a preset(adjustable ) time delay ,COB#2 switches ON ,same as #1 ,
at lower output than it's preset one .
Again ,after a preset time delay ,COB#3 switches ON.
Now ,one of the previous drivers ,outputs it's preset current ,
so now two COBs operate at their preset power level ,
while one remains still "underdriven".
After the last time delay the fourth driver switches ON and
now all four COBs operate at their preset current output.
I ''ll try to upload a vid ,later on ,showing the "Soft-On-Set" feature in action ...
Cheers.
Don't you see?
