grow more fertilizer ???

[az2000]

have any1 used grow more mendocino line foilage pro n bloom pro?

They look like good NPK ratios. It also looks like they're just ordrinary Grow More products with a "Mendicino" label stuck on them.

It seems like Grow More is trying to get in on the cannabis-specific (themed) nutrients. I'd like to think they're above that. But, the way new (and even experienced) growers think the theme matters, I can see the temptation to reach those people. I mean, if I were selling generic plant foods in the 3-1-2 and 1-3-2 range, but a large number of growers wouldn't consider it because it doesn't have a boutique theme, "when in Rome...."

I know plantsthatproduce doesn't carry a lot of this stuff because it seems superfluous. It creates a quandary for hermitian. Carry needless inventory just to reach the boutique buyers. If he doesn't, then he doesn't appear in google searches for people to discover the un-themed products. I think he should list such products but only to explain that they're just themed versions of other, traditional GM products. Reach people so they can be directed to generic products (without the theme tax).

 

[killacali916]

they look like they got alot of good stuff in it including micro n secrodary plus its pretty cheap i tried sum of their products their not that bad for the price

 

[Hermitian]

have any1 used grow more mendocino line foilage pro n bloom pro?

These are just re-labeling of standard agricultural products they've been producing for decades. Very reliable, high quality formulas. For example, Foliage Pro 20-6-16 is this product: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00S7M4F4K (<<< link)

 

[az2000]

I harvested this yesterday:



This was an autoflower in a 3gal container. It grew 11 weeks + 4 days. That bud is about 2" diameter. I had a little calcium def earlier in the grow. I think it was self-inflicted: Someone mentioned gypsum for ca def. Just to see how it dissolves in water I mixed a little to measure its ppm. Instead of wasting it, I poured it into the soil. I might have caused a brief lockout. (The seedling also had physical/genetic problems sprouting. Because it's an autoflower, I started it in a 3gal container. But, because of the stress it was stunted. Because it's an autoflower, I couldn't let it veg longer to fill the container. So, it was a little hard in mid veg to get new nutrients to it without also overwatering. I felt like this was the problem when it occurred. But, it could have been the thoughtless gypsum.).

This was grown under a 135w Blackstar UFO (85w actual) and three Cree 9.5w LED "lightbulbs" as sidelight.

I was doing about NPK 1-2.1-2.2 (522ppm) in late flower (up to the day before chop). I "bloom boosted" 2-3 feedings before the last one. This was 1-2.6-1.9 (529ppm). I don't know if it helped. Seemed to ripen faster, swelled. I'm still playing with "boosting" and not. Still trying to see if it's beneficial.

I fed (per gallon):

Veg: 1-1-1.7 (517ppm)
1.8g Sea Grow All Purpose
0.9g Down-to-Earth Langeinite
5ml Botanicare Liquid Karma

Late Flower: 1-2.1-2.2 (522ppm)
1.1g Sea Grow All Purpose
1.1g Sea Grow Flower & Bloom
5.1ml LK

"Bloom Booster": 1-2.6-1.9 (529ppm)
1.0g Sea Grow All Purpose
0.5g Sea Grow Flower & Bloom
0.5g Hawaiian Bud & Bloom
5ml LK

I scaled up to Late Flower in 2-3 steps, for example:

Transition: 1-1.3-1.8 (518ppm)
1.6g Sea Grow All Purpose
0.4g Sea Grow Flower & Bloom
0.5g Down-to-Earth Langeinite
5ml Botanicare Liquid Karma

Early Flower: 1-1.4-1.8 (508ppm)
1.5g Sea Grow All Purpose
0.5g Sea Grow Flower & Bloom
0.4g Down-to-Earth Langeinite
5ml Botanicare Liquid Karma

Mid Flower: 1-1.6-1.7 (523ppm)
1.5g Sea Grow All Purpose
0.8g Sea Grow Flower & Bloom
5ml Botanicare Liquid Karma

I played around in those ranges. I used the spreadsheet to play around with increasing one component, reducing another to see which way the NPK ratio moved, just finding something made sense getting from Veg to Late Flower. Sometimes I go too far too soon and notice N def.

Also, this is using tap water with 120-180ppm, and soil amended with dolomite. (I have to mix my tap with ro water to get that starting ppm because my tap is much higher.). If you use RO water you'll need to use a calmag product and account for the N that calmag products usually include. The spread sheet makes it easy. (Or, you might benefit from the added N. Especially in veg. In flower you might need to rework the mixes above to try higher P ratios.).

 

[az2000]

Here's a more complete description of what I'm feeding:

​

There is a printable PDF version attached to this post containing a 1.5 gallon list as well as the above 1 gallon.

A few notes:

1. This is not exactly a schedule. It's more like a roadmap. I look at it to see where I should be (generally). I sometimes revert back to higher N. I might add Fish Emulsion a time or two in flower.
2. All amounts are grams for dry products, ml for liquid.
3. The variations:
   1. I use Veg #2 occasionally during aggressive veg. I like the Fish Emulsion to improve the soil biology.
   2. Mid Flower #2 is more for transitioning to late flower.
   3. Late Flower #1 & 2 are essentially the same. I add Kelp occasionally. I think it may be beneficial to bulking. But, I don't know. It's something I'm playing with.
4. I'm unclear if "Bloom Boosting" helps or hurts. I list a couple of possible mixes. I also want to try replacing Hawaiian Bud & Bloom with ordinary bone meal. I haven't tried it yet, but I document what I intend to try. The reason I'd like to do this is that I like to use organic ingredients where feasible. I'm not fanatical about organic. But, I lean that way.
5. I add 1/8-1/4 tsp/gal molasses to every other feeding or so to feed the soil biology. I avoid adding it when using Fish Emulsion, kelp or the "booster" mixes. Only the simpler mixes.
6. I feed every watering. I try to get 20% runoff. I feed every 2-3 days which my soil's drainage allows.
7. I use 1/4 strength of Veg #1 late in the first week after seedlings break ground. I use this 2-3 times (over 6-10 days).
8. I use 1/2 strength of Veg #1 in the 2nd week. I use it once. Then begin full strength, and soon afterward I begin switching between #2.
9. Soil is Pro-Mix HP, Kellogg Patio Plus (premium outdoor potting mix), perlite. I combine 50-60%, 20-25%, 20-25%, respectively. I add 1.5-2 Tbsp/gal powdered dolomite per gallon.
10. I use RO and tap water mixed to give me 120-180 ppm. If you use RO water, you may need some calmag. That will increase N unless you specifically choose a calmag like Gen. Organics CaMg+. You may not need calmag because the soil is fortified with dolomite. I don't know. I haven't tried RO and no calmag.

The above is what I did the last couple grows, as well as some improvement. For example, I had some N def going to Mid Flower's ratio too soon. And, the "au natural" booster which I haven't tried yet.

Some of the above is not necessary. You'd do very well without AK Fish and Kelp. Bone meal is unnecessary (and untried). I don't mind having "a lot of bottles" when I know the purpose they serve, why I'm using them, when. If they were typical cannabis-specific boutique products, I wouldn't feel comfortable with that many just because it would be opaque.

Eventually I'd like to replace Liquid Karma with Grow More Jump Start, or just some generic fulvic/humic acid product. I have half a gallon and trying to use it up.

That's the entirety of my knowledge at this point. It's a safe starting point for anyone considering Sea Grow. The only thing I'd like to change with the above is how high K is in Late Flower. It's not terribly high. But, I'd like to reduce it a little. That can't be done without reducing Sea Grow Flower & Bloom, and adding Hawaiian Bud & Bloom. As mentioned above, I prefer the organic ingredients of Sea Grow. If my bone meal idea works out, that would be the way to increase P in Late Flower without raising K.

I used the spreadsheet to find those ratios. You can plug any of the above into it and vary the ingredients and ratios.

 

[larry40]

Here's a more complete description of what I'm feeding:

View attachment 3381190​

There is a printable PDF version attached to this post containing a 1.5 gallon list as well as the above 1 gallon.

A few notes:

1. This is not exactly a schedule. It's more like a roadmap. I look at it to see where I should be (generally). I sometimes revert back to higher N. I might add Fish Emulsion a time or two in flower.
2. All amounts are grams for dry products, ml for liquid.
3. The variations:
   1. I use Veg #2 occasionally during aggressive veg. I like the Fish Emulsion to improve the soil biology.
   2. Mid Flower #2 is more for transitioning to late flower.
   3. Late Flower #1 & 2 are essentially the same. I add Kelp occasionally. I think it may be beneficial to bulking. But, I don't know. It's something I'm playing with.
4. I'm unclear if "Bloom Boosting" helps or hurts. I list a couple of possible mixes. I also want to try replacing Hawaiian Bud & Bloom with ordinary bone meal. I haven't tried it yet, but I document what I intend to try. The reason I'd like to do this is that I like to use organic ingredients where feasible. I'm not fanatical about organic. But, I lean that way.
5. I add 1/8-1/4 tsp/gal molasses to every other feeding or so to feed the soil biology. I avoid adding it when using Fish Emulsion, kelp or the "booster" mixes. Only the simpler mixes.
6. I feed every watering. I try to get 20% runoff. I feed every 2-3 days which my soil's drainage allows.
7. I use 1/4 strength of Veg #1 late in the first week after seedlings break ground. I use this 2-3 times (over 6-10 days).
8. I use 1/2 strength of Veg #1 in the 2nd week. I use it once. Then begin full strength, and soon afterward I begin switching between #2.
9. Soil is Pro-Mix HP, Kellogg Patio Plus (premium outdoor potting mix), perlite. I combine 50-60%, 20-25%, 20-25%, respectively. I add 1.5-2 Tbsp/gal powdered dolomite per gallon.
10. I use RO and tap water mixed to give me 120-180 ppm. If you use RO water, you may need some calmag. That will increase N unless you specifically choose a calmag like Gen. Organics CaMg+. You may not need calmag because the soil is fortified with dolomite. I don't know. I haven't tried RO and no calmag.

The above is what I did the last couple grows, as well as some improvement. For example, I had some N def going to Mid Flower's ratio too soon. And, the "au natural" booster which I haven't tried yet.

Some of the above is not necessary. You'd do very well without AK Fish and Kelp. Bone meal is unnecessary (and untried). I don't mind having "a lot of bottles" when I know the purpose they serve, why I'm using them, when. If they were typical cannabis-specific boutique products, I wouldn't feel comfortable with that many just because it would be opaque.

Eventually I'd like to replace Liquid Karma with Grow More Jump Start, or just some generic fulvic/humic acid product. I have half a gallon and trying to use it up.

That's the entirety of my knowledge at this point. It's a safe starting point for anyone considering Sea Grow. The only thing I'd like to change with the above is how high K is in Late Flower. It's not terribly high. But, I'd like to reduce it a little. That can't be done without reducing Sea Grow Flower & Bloom, and adding Hawaiian Bud & Bloom. As mentioned above, I prefer the organic ingredients of Sea Grow. If my bone meal idea works out, that would be the way to increase P in Late Flower without raising K.

I used the spreadsheet to find those ratios. You can plug any of the above into it and vary the ingredients and ratios.

Here's a more complete description of what I'm feeding:

View attachment 3381190​

There is a printable PDF version attached to this post containing a 1.5 gallon list as well as the above 1 gallon.

A few notes:

1. This is not exactly a schedule. It's more like a roadmap. I look at it to see where I should be (generally). I sometimes revert back to higher N. I might add Fish Emulsion a time or two in flower.
2. All amounts are grams for dry products, ml for liquid.
3. The variations:
   1. I use Veg #2 occasionally during aggressive veg. I like the Fish Emulsion to improve the soil biology.
   2. Mid Flower #2 is more for transitioning to late flower.
   3. Late Flower #1 & 2 are essentially the same. I add Kelp occasionally. I think it may be beneficial to bulking. But, I don't know. It's something I'm playing with.
4. I'm unclear if "Bloom Boosting" helps or hurts. I list a couple of possible mixes. I also want to try replacing Hawaiian Bud & Bloom with ordinary bone meal. I haven't tried it yet, but I document what I intend to try. The reason I'd like to do this is that I like to use organic ingredients where feasible. I'm not fanatical about organic. But, I lean that way.
5. I add 1/8-1/4 tsp/gal molasses to every other feeding or so to feed the soil biology. I avoid adding it when using Fish Emulsion, kelp or the "booster" mixes. Only the simpler mixes.
6. I feed every watering. I try to get 20% runoff. I feed every 2-3 days which my soil's drainage allows.
7. I use 1/4 strength of Veg #1 late in the first week after seedlings break ground. I use this 2-3 times (over 6-10 days).
8. I use 1/2 strength of Veg #1 in the 2nd week. I use it once. Then begin full strength, and soon afterward I begin switching between #2.
9. Soil is Pro-Mix HP, Kellogg Patio Plus (premium outdoor potting mix), perlite. I combine 50-60%, 20-25%, 20-25%, respectively. I add 1.5-2 Tbsp/gal powdered dolomite per gallon.
10. I use RO and tap water mixed to give me 120-180 ppm. If you use RO water, you may need some calmag. That will increase N unless you specifically choose a calmag like Gen. Organics CaMg+. You may not need calmag because the soil is fortified with dolomite. I don't know. I haven't tried RO and no calmag.

The above is what I did the last couple grows, as well as some improvement. For example, I had some N def going to Mid Flower's ratio too soon. And, the "au natural" booster which I haven't tried yet.

Some of the above is not necessary. You'd do very well without AK Fish and Kelp. Bone meal is unnecessary (and untried). I don't mind having "a lot of bottles" when I know the purpose they serve, why I'm using them, when. If they were typical cannabis-specific boutique products, I wouldn't feel comfortable with that many just because it would be opaque.

Eventually I'd like to replace Liquid Karma with Grow More Jump Start, or just some generic fulvic/humic acid product. I have half a gallon and trying to use it up.

That's the entirety of my knowledge at this point. It's a safe starting point for anyone considering Sea Grow. The only thing I'd like to change with the above is how high K is in Late Flower. It's not terribly high. But, I'd like to reduce it a little. That can't be done without reducing Sea Grow Flower & Bloom, and adding Hawaiian Bud & Bloom. As mentioned above, I prefer the organic ingredients of Sea Grow. If my bone meal idea works out, that would be the way to increase P in Late Flower without raising K.

I used the spreadsheet to find those ratios. You can plug any of the above into it and vary the ingredients and ratios.

hi AZ,i read n seen on youtube where a guy saids all he uses is GM 30-10-10 for veg and GM10-50-30 for bloom. is that trueor do i need add more stuff? have u watched big slugger marijuana grow on youtube? he uses GM 30-10-10,seaweed soluble,bat guanos and more which he didnt mention. I'm new to this GM so i was hoping if u know wat i really need besides the GM to bring out the smell n yield. I appreciate it very much

 

[az2000]

hi AZ,i read n seen on youtube where a guy saids all he uses is GM 30-10-10 for veg and GM10-50-30 for bloom. is that trueor do i need add more stuff? have u watched big slugger marijuana grow on youtube? he uses GM 30-10-10,seaweed soluble,bat guanos and more which he didnt mention. I'm new to this GM so i was hoping if u know wat i really need besides the GM to bring out the smell n yield. I appreciate it very much

You don't need much. A balanced NPK ratio, the right about of ca and mg depending on your water's quality, some organic stuff like Jump Start to improve the soil.

@Hermitian created a new feeding schedule for what he believes is optimal. I would follow that. Start simple, then experiment with supplements. You can't really know if something helps unless you have something to compare it to. You might find that a little fish emulsion, bat guano, etc. helps. Or, you might find it does nothing. (Worse, it might get in the way. For example, Sea Grow already has kelp. Adding more in veg seems to cause stretch. However, I think I'm seeing denser buds when I add it later in flower.).

I think the temptation most new growers have is to "bet on every horse in the race." They want to have a perfect grow immediately, and they equate a lot of ingredients with perfection. You might get lucky. But, more likely you'll end up with a superstitious belief in products because you never started with the basics.

Keep it simple. Learn to read your plant. Later, experiment with giving more N (when you need it) with bat guano. Or, using kelp in flower as a "hardner." Then you'll have a background for what "normal" is, and how these things contribute.

Or, you might decide that normal is good enough. Keeping it basic will give you very good results.

Stick to hermitian's schedule, or use mine (which was based upon his, but I'm playing with a couple things and using up my Liquid Karma instead of buying Jump Start.). You'll be happy and you'll be in a position to try more things with better knowledge of the fundamentals.

 

[larry40]

You don't need much. A balanced NPK ratio, the right about of ca and mg depending on your water's quality, some organic stuff like Jump Start to improve the soil.

@Hermitian created a new feeding schedule for what he believes is optimal. I would follow that. Start simple, then experiment with supplements. You can't really know if something helps unless you have something to compare it to. You might find that a little fish emulsion, bat guano, etc. helps. Or, you might find it does nothing. (Worse, it might get in the way. For example, Sea Grow already has kelp. Adding more in veg seems to cause stretch. However, I think I'm seeing denser buds when I add it later in flower.).

I think the temptation most new growers have is to "bet on every horse in the race." They want to have a perfect grow immediately, and they equate a lot of ingredients with perfection. You might get lucky. But, more likely you'll end up with a superstitious belief in products because you never started with the basics.

Keep it simple. Learn to read your plant. Later, experiment with giving more N (when you need it) with bat guano. Or, using kelp in flower as a "hardner." Then you'll have a background for what "normal" is, and how these things contribute.

Or, you might decide that normal is good enough. Keeping it basic will give you very good results.

Stick to hermitian's schedule, or use mine (which was based upon his, but I'm playing with a couple things and using up my Liquid Karma instead of buying Jump Start.). You'll be happy and you'll be in a position to try more things with better knowledge of the fundamentals.

Well,mines just gonna be peat moss n perlite mix for outdoor that's y i'm just gonna use the GM 30-10-10 and 10-50-30 for bloom. but i'm probably gonna add the remaining GM products from Hermitian if needed. A buddy of mines wasted like over 40k on Advanced last year for just 80 plants. it was such a waste of money!! But thanks for the advice Az. hope i can learn more from u down the line

 

[Budzbuddha]

NPK ratio is basically a measure of the concentration of 3 key nutrients—nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium—that can be found in liquid fertilizers. There really is no ideal fertilizer to use and every grower has his or hers own preference , but as a general rule of thumb, a 7-5-5 ratio works for vegetative growth. Fish emulsion has 5 - 5 - 5 and has been used with good results.

When marijuana plants go into flowering stage, the nitrogen concentration can stay at a similar level, but, as the flowering stage progresses, it should be REDUCED . Higher phosphorous promotes flower formation . This is balanced out by a corresponding increase in potassium. For adequate flowering, you’ll want a formula of 3-10-10. Nutrients need to be diluted to 1,200 to 1,800 parts per million (ppm). As with most fertilizers available , there is usually a Feed Schedule designed for the nute package used.

This is only a guide for feeding , the ppm listed or amounts used is listed at maximum levels. Most growers will not need to reach those levels. Your plants response will dictate what it can handle ... Remember Less is More !

Water quality and it's sources ( and mineral content ) varies which can alter the fertilizer needs for your plant. Also different marijuana strains will use nutrients at different rates. Early and late vegetative stages and early, mid, and late flowering all have unique nutritional requirements specific to its growth stage.

Money doesn't buy better nutes - it's how complete and within the ratios needed are what's important.

 

[larry40]

So with GM water soluble mix,what's good to add at the veg stage n bloom stage for smell n sugar? would mollases work?

 

[Budzbuddha]

You can use molasses ( grandmas unsulphered ) available at supermarket.
1/2 to 1 tsp per gallon , every other watering ( either entire grow or blooming ) .
It provides simple sugars the soil microbes crave. It doesn't outright change your flavor but just enhances it a bit. Some growers also use honey.

Apply only to soil water , not Foliar spray because it can bring bugs.

 

[larry40]

Wait,i'm a lil confused here. so GM water soluble fertilizers 30-10-10 and 10-50-30 are not organic,but Hermitian's GM charts are? my apologies i'm new to the products.

 

[az2000]

Wait,i'm a lil confused here. so GM water soluble fertilizers 30-10-10 and 10-50-30 are not organic,but Hermitian's GM charts are? my apologies i'm new to the products.

Sea Grow has organic ingredients. I think it's better suited to soil. That's all I can recommend.

What gave you the impression the products you saw on YouTube are organic?

Seems like you could follow what the YouTube guy does, or follow hermitian's guide. Otherwise you're launching into unknown territory. If you choose to do that, bud's advice is sound (although I like to refer to 1-based NPK ratios so we're speaking a common language, not confusing % strength with strength-agnostic ratio). Hermitian might have some advice too. but I think his best advice is in the guide. I'd encourage you to follow that.

EDIT: You said you'll use peat and perlite. That's soilless. I guess I'm confused why you're interested in organic components. But, what I said above remains true. Repeat what the YouTube guy does (including his media). Choose from hermitian's guide based upon your media and water. Or, do your own thing. If you use peat and perlite, that's soilless. Use a hydro fertilizer. Shoot for 3-1-2 NPK ratio in veg, 1-3-2 at the end of flower. Do something in between in early flower, like 1-1.5-2.

 

[larry40]

Ok cool. now that u have said that,I'm much more cleared on the issue,cuz the youtube i watched was big slugger's outdoor garden. He doesnt really said if his feed was organic r not. But I think i can learn more on here from u guys then on youtube. They really don't explain much on there. Thanks for the advice guys. Much appreciated

 

[az2000]

But I think i can learn more on here from u guys then on youtube.

It's not hard to grow. You don't need fancy nutrients and supplements. Choose your medium (hydro, soilless, soil), the size plants you'll grow (depends on the space you'll grow in), get some lights (depends on the size plants you'll grow, the space you'll grow in) and that's about it.

Don't over analyze it. Decide how you'll grow, choose a schedule and go with it. Keep the variables minimal, get 2-3 grows like that, then start experimenting with supplements and fancy stuff if you want to. You'll have a baseline to compare their effectiveness. You'll probably just stay with the simple schedule.

If you intend to do hydro, you'll need RO water. If soil/soilless, you need to find out the quality of your tap water. If you live in the US, all water providers are required to publish an "annual water quality report." That might tell you everything you need to know. Sometimes they don't say the ppm of the water. You'll need a TDS meter. (You'll benefit from having one any way. A Ph meter in soil isn't essential, but they're handy to have too. But, added expense in calibration, storage and cleaning solutions. I use this one. It comes with calibration powders you mix with distilled water.).

You could get started understanding your water if you intend to do soil or soilless.

 

[TedeBoy]

Just found this thread. Glad I did.
I'm on my first grow all with Grow More.
I'm using a 50/50 mix of Ocean Forest and Happy Frog soil in 3 gallon fabric pots.
On this schedule except for the Sul-Po-Mag which I just ordered.
http://www.plantsthatproduce.com/guide-nutrients-for-cannabis.html#275

I'm almost 5 weeks in and so far I'm very pleased. I will also mention here that I am using rain water I gathered and I pH adjust my mix to 6.5-7.0.

 

[larry40]

nice...Tedeboy!!

 

[az2000]

I'm on my first grow all with Grow More.
I'm using a 50/50 mix of Ocean Forest and Happy Frog soil in 3 gallon fabric pots.
On this schedule except for the Sul-Po-Mag which I just ordered.
http://www.plantsthatproduce.com/guide-nutrients-for-cannabis.html#275

Did you grow before using Sea Grow? I'm curious to hear feedback from anyone who grew with synthetic nutes like MiracleGro, Jack's Classic or GH Flora 3-part. Whether they notice a taste/smoothness difference. Myself and friends did.

The soil schedules @Hermitian published are for "soils not fortified with nutrients." You're using soils that contain a degree of nutrients baked in. (I can't find the actual NPK. Fox Farms doesn't show the bag's label on the product page.).

Also, that particular schedule was for people who use a soil without dolomite. But, most bagged soils do contain dolomite. Just, maybe a stingy amount. Seems it's common for growers to add 1tbsp/gal dolomite to any bagged soil. Maybe hermitian can clarify if #275 applies to a bagged soil without additional dolomite added, or if it applies to something else (truly no dolomite).

Be sure to get good runoff, at least 20%. This fertilizer is less likely to burn if overfed, more likely to accumulate, acidify the soil and lockout nutes in early flower. I try to get 20% runoff in mid through late veg. I'll do 50% 2-3 times in flower. It's something you get a feel for watching your runoff ppms, experiencing lockout once or twice. When you see it coming it's not as bad as it sounds. (Mild nutes, 100% runoff, reduced nutes next time, and it's like nothing happened. Don't be afraid to find that "too much" level sometime.).

 

[TedeBoy]

Did you grow before using Sea Grow? I'm curious to hear feedback from anyone who grew with synthetic nutes like MiracleGro, Jack's Classic or GH Flora 3-part. Whether they notice a taste/smoothness difference. Myself and friends did.

The soil schedules @Hermitian published are for "soils not fortified with nutrients." You're using soils that contain a degree of nutrients baked in. (I can't find the actual NPK. Fox Farms doesn't show the bag's label on the product page.).

Also, that particular schedule was for people who use a soil without dolomite. But, most bagged soils do contain dolomite. Just, maybe a stingy amount. Seems it's common for growers to add 1tbsp/gal dolomite to any bagged soil. Maybe hermitian can clarify if #275 applies to a bagged soil without additional dolomite added, or if it applies to something else (truly no dolomite).

Be sure to get good runoff, at least 20%. This fertilizer is less likely to burn if overfed, more likely to accumulate, acidify the soil and lockout nutes in early flower. I try to get 20% runoff in mid through late veg. I'll do 50% 2-3 times in flower. It's something you get a feel for watching your runoff ppms, experiencing lockout once or twice. When you see it coming it's not as bad as it sounds. (Mild nutes, 100% runoff, reduced nutes next time, and it's like nothing happened. Don't be afraid to find that "too much" level sometime.).

Another good post AZ thanks!
I have only grown decades ago so this is kinda my first grow.

 

[j.ride]

Hermitian - how often do you suggest using the jump start and at what points in the harvest? I've been told that it may be more effective as a foliar spray than as a drench, is this true? Many thanks.