V series "Tetras"

stardustsailor

stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
bicit said:
It's been a long day :eyesmoke:

I guess that answers a lot of questions. Thanks.
Click to expand...

Total Max. Soft On Set time period : 27 min.

Minimum Plug Power Diss. : ~50 W ( @ Stabil.Oper. )
...After four presets* in between :
Maximum Plug Power Diss. : ~270 W ( @ Stabil. Oper. )

~1500 umol/sec/m^2 ,center beam, @ 20" from canopy ,
270 W plug pwr ,@ stable operation,Ta= 23°C

*
Preset : - Growth Phase :
1 - Clones / Mother plants / Flowering males for pollen collection ( ~50 W )
2 - Seedlings to third-fourth pair of real leaves . ( ~75 W )
3 - Young plants ( ~ 100 W )
4 - Late veg / Early flowering ( ~150 W )
5 - Early / Mid flowering (~ 200 W )
6 - Mid / Late flowering (270 W )

Cheers.
:peace:
 
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AquariusPanta

AquariusPanta

Well-Known Member
stardustsailor said:
Total Max. Soft On Set time period : 27 min.

Minimum Plug Power Diss. : ~50 W ( @ Stabil.Oper. )
...After four presets* in between :
Maximum Plug Power Diss. : ~270 W ( @ Stabil. Oper. )

~1500 umol/sec/m^2 ,center beam, @ 20" from canopy ,
270 W plug pwr ,@ stable operation,Ta= 23°C

*
Preset : - Growth Phase :
1 - Clones / Mother plants / Flowering males for pollen collection ( ~50 W )
2 - Seedlings to third-fourth pair of real leaves . ( ~75 W )
3 - Young plants ( ~ 100 W )
4 - Late veg / Early flowering ( ~150 W )
5 - Early / Mid flowering (~ 200 W )
6 - Mid / Late flowering (270 W )

Cheers.
:peace:
Click to expand...
The umol/sec/m^2 factor hasn't been relevant to me before but I'd like to learn more about it. Any directions to past threads explaining it would be greatly appreciated, comrades!

:bigjoint:
 
HiloReign

HiloReign

Well-Known Member
Hi SDS. It seems you're still kickin' ass (thanks for continuing to inspire me)... I'd really love to get one of those top-quality lamps here in Hawaii. The savings in electricity from the soft on set would add up here where electricity costs a ton...

Looking forward to more creations by SDS~
 
Doer

Doer

Well-Known Member
stardustsailor said:
Total Max. Soft On Set time period : 27 min.

Minimum Plug Power Diss. : ~50 W ( @ Stabil.Oper. )
...After four presets* in between :
Maximum Plug Power Diss. : ~270 W ( @ Stabil. Oper. )

~1500 umol/sec/m^2 ,center beam, @ 20" from canopy ,
270 W plug pwr ,@ stable operation,Ta= 23°C

*
Preset : - Growth Phase :
1 - Clones / Mother plants / Flowering males for pollen collection ( ~50 W )
2 - Seedlings to third-fourth pair of real leaves . ( ~75 W )
3 - Young plants ( ~ 100 W )
4 - Late veg / Early flowering ( ~150 W )
5 - Early / Mid flowering (~ 200 W )
6 - Mid / Late flowering (270 W )

Cheers.
:peace:
Click to expand...
You mean it works already!!??? Wow. Mr Builder.

IG pontoon - that is a commercial light set up to add 730nm for some period just after lights out. Hmm...I think. How da do dat?

Battery, Li-Po. I have boxes of those for my RC hobby. Burn bags actually. :)

I bring that here, from a discussion of Emerson Effect.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Emerson_effect
The Emerson effect is the increase in the rate of photosynthesis after chloroplasts are exposed to light of wavelength 670 nm (far red light) and 700 nm (red light). When simultaneously exposed to light of both wavelengths, the rate of photosynthesis is far higher than the sum of the red light and far red light photosynthesis rates.

But, the idea is the use of batteries for timers. It is similar to capacitor discharge time for circuit latching. But, this timer also does the work. Interesting. I guess the battery charges all day on a trickle charge.
 
Doer

Doer

Well-Known Member
AquariusPanta said:
The umol/sec/m^2 factor hasn't been relevant to me before but I'd like to learn more about it. Any directions to past threads explaining it would be greatly appreciated, comrades!

:bigjoint:
Click to expand...
This can get you started. Ms. Cannabis is only concerned with the density of what you are packing. And she wants as much of that per second as you can give her without harm.

http://www.apogeeinstruments.com/conversion-ppf-to-lux/

Micromole:
per second and square meter (μmol m-2 s-1). This term is based on the number of photons in a certain waveband incident per unit time (s) on a unit area (m2) divided by the Avogadro constant (6.022 x 1023 mol-1). It is used commonly to describe PAR in the 400-700 nm waveband.
 
alesh

alesh

Well-Known Member
Doer said:
This can get you started. Ms. Cannabis is only concerned with the density of what you are packing. And she wants as much of that per second as you can give her without harm.

http://www.apogeeinstruments.com/conversion-ppf-to-lux/

Micromole:
per second and square meter (μmol m-2 s-1). This term is based on the number of photons in a certain waveband incident per unit time (s) on a unit area (m2) divided by the Avogadro constant (6.022 x 1023 mol-1). It is used commonly to describe PAR in the 400-700 nm waveband.
Click to expand...
To get more precise results you can use specific numbers calculated for each source. All you need is LER (in lm/W) and "quantum efficiency??" (number of photons produced per energy dissipated - umol/J).
Then:
PPFD = Ev / (LER/QE)
Ev = PPFD * (LER/QE)
where PPFD is photosynthetic photon flux density (in (umol/s)/m^2) and Ev is illuminance (measured by luxmeter - in lux)
Ie CXA 3000K 80CRI has LER 325 lm/W and 4.87 umol/J
PPFD = Ev / 66.7 (lm*s)/umol

Alesh qer.jpg
 
stardustsailor

stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
On the process of a new built ..
2x Vero 29 ( Ver. 1,2 ) @ 350- 2200 mA range with "SoftOnSet" for the one of the two COB arrays.
Future owner want its to be a "classy" design ...
Vanilla Cream White ,painted also ..

Well .." classy " ...
Time to use some ..metal-core-printed-circuit- board ( aka Insulated Metal Substrate ) ,
left-overs from the Oslon era ...!!!

To make a nice " label " ,for starters...
P4222642.JPG
A copper plated aluminium label ....
8-)....
Fits awesomely with the black bakelite knob ,don't you think so ?
Classy,enough ,I 'd say ...
:P

Cheers.
:peace:
 
AquariusPanta

AquariusPanta

Well-Known Member
stardustsailor said:
On the process of a new built ..
2x Vero 29 ( Ver. 1,2 ) @ 350- 2200 mA range with "SoftOnSet" for the one of the two COB arrays.
Future owner want its to be a "classy" design ...
Vanilla Cream White ,painted also ..

Well .." classy " ...
Time to use some ..metal-core-printed-circuit- board ( aka Insulated Metal Substrate ) ,
left-overs from the Oslon era ...!!!

To make a nice " label " ,for starters...
View attachment 3401289
A copper plated aluminium label ....
8-)....
Fits awesomely with the black bakelite knob ,don't you think so ?
Classy,enough ,I 'd say ...
:P

Cheers.
:peace:
Click to expand...
When it comes to that stage, Sailor, please elaborate on the painting process.

I, for one, would greatly benefit and appreciate such a breakdown.

(:
 
stardustsailor

stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
Well,someday I will finish it ...:P

Changing my mind lots ,regarding this light ...

Apart from the "Soft On-Set " feature it will also have a led blinking ,
showing that the fan is operating fine .

The small circuit used blinks a led ,with the frequency depending directly at the fan's speed .
It uses the "TACH " wire of 3 or and/or 4 wire fans .
( Blink frequency = Fan RPM /60 * 2 / 10 ).

So ,if a fan of 1200 rpm is being used ,then the led should blink 4 times per second.
If the led blinks with a rate of two blinks per second ,fan's speed has dropped to 600 rpm for some reason.

If it stays OFF or On ,the fan has failed and no longer operates.
So .. A blue small led ,for the "Fan OK " thing and a bi-colored ,red-green ,for the "SoftOnSet " thingy ...
At the center ,the 12 position dial ,of the single pole rotary switch adjusting
the driver's output current .

Min position is at " I " ,maximum output is set at position " XII "...
:eyesmoke:...
Nothing to do with time or "orientation" this ...time ....

P4222646.JPG
Have to wait for the transparent varnish coat to completely dry,before handling ...>:(

Steam-punkish classic copper details ..
:evil:

Cheers.
:peace:
 
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PSUAGRO.

PSUAGRO.

Well-Known Member
stardustsailor said:
Well,someday I will finish it ...:P

Changing my mind lots ,regarding this light ...

Apart from the "Soft On-Set " feature it will also have a led blinking ,
showing that the fan is operating fine .

The small circuit used blinks a led ,with the frequency depending directly at the fan's speed .
It uses the "TACH " wire of 3 or and/or 4 wire fans .
( Blink frequency = Fan RPM * 2 / 10 ).

So ,if a fan of 1200 rpm is being used ,then the led should blink 4 times per second.
If the led blinks with a rate of one blink per second ,fan's speed has dropped to 600 rpm for some reason.

If it stays OFF or On ,the fan has failed and no longer operates.
So .. A blue small led ,for the "Fan OK " thing and a bi-colored ,red-green ,for the "SoftOnSet " thingy ...
I the mid ,the 12 position ,single pole rotary switch ,with SMD resistors ,adjusting
the driver's output current .Min positiopn is at " I " ,maximum output is set at position " XII "...

View attachment 3401602
Have to wait for the transparent varnish coat to completely dry,before handling ...>:(

Steam-punkish classic copper details ..
:evil:

Cheers.
:peace:
Click to expand...

amazing!................boutique builder:clap:
 
AquariusPanta

AquariusPanta

Well-Known Member
stardustsailor said:
Well,someday I will finish it ...:P

Changing my mind lots ,regarding this light ...

Apart from the "Soft On-Set " feature it will also have a led blinking ,
showing that the fan is operating fine .

The small circuit used blinks a led ,with the frequency depending directly at the fan's speed .
It uses the "TACH " wire of 3 or and/or 4 wire fans .
( Blink frequency = Fan RPM /60 * 2 / 10 ).

So ,if a fan of 1200 rpm is being used ,then the led should blink 4 times per second.
If the led blinks with a rate of two blinks per second ,fan's speed has dropped to 600 rpm for some reason.

If it stays OFF or On ,the fan has failed and no longer operates.
So .. A blue small led ,for the "Fan OK " thing and a bi-colored ,red-green ,for the "SoftOnSet " thingy ...
At the center ,the 12 position dial ,of the single pole rotary switch adjusting
the driver's output current .

Min position is at " I " ,maximum output is set at position " XII "...
:eyesmoke:...
Nothing to do with time or "orientation" this ...time ....

View attachment 3401602
Have to wait for the transparent varnish coat to completely dry,before handling ...>:(

Steam-punkish classic copper details ..
:evil:

Cheers.
:peace:
Click to expand...
So you've become bored with making COB fixtures and are now working on building time machines.. how did I not see this coming?
 
stardustsailor

stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
Positivity said:
Quite far and away from ufos...

Leds are worthy devices its nice to see someone take the time they deserve....:joint:
Click to expand...
Yes,I've tro agree ...
More than that ...
Hand made ,DIY custom designs are not just "machines" ..
No ..
Not for me at least ...Each one is unique .
Like people are. People as "makers " or as "final users " ...
Diverse and different .
Yes...They just carry their own " aura"..
No matter if being just mere "machines" ...
That's the "half -empty glass" POV....
The "half-full glass " POV ,dictates that ,machines or not ,
they are still man-made creations.
That alone ,allows for enough "spirituality" to be conducted into
the circuits of such "machines" ...

God ,used Carbon ..
We ,His creations ,use Silicon (for now ) ,for our creations ...

And yet they have "spirit " too...
Sometimes,lots of it ...

Cheers.
 
S

Skaumannen

Well-Known Member
If i could afford it, i would have tried to get you to build me a lamp SDS. Your work is not DIY, it is custom design work, not just something off the shelf. Proffessional in every aspect.
 
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