LED price -vs- effeciency poll

Would you me more likely to purchase option 1 or 2?

  • Option 1: Fans and money savings up front.

    Votes: 6 30.0%
  • Option 2: Fanless and a nice bump in output -w- better coverage

    Votes: 12 60.0%
  • Option 3: HPS cause they're both too expensive and still unproven.

    Votes: 2 10.0%

  • Total voters
    20

bicit

Well-Known Member
Oh and question how does a matte black surface dissipate better? Just curious because I never considered color of a heatsink changes it's properties really other than just the coating material causing some thermal insulation.
The finish is more important than the color. Simply having an anodized finish will increase the thermal properties. However it has anodizing has very little effect on actively cooled fans.

http://www.aavid.com/product-group/extrusions-na/anodize
 

Greengenes707

Well-Known Member
More emitters running at lower currents, hence the 130 LPW -vs- 150 LPW at the same wattage.
So they are completely different lamps...not a passive or active version of one design. This is a completely loaded and skewed question.

So you spend more on heatsink...and more on chips?...and possibly drivers too?
All to make it easier to be passive and still be efficient?
If you can afford to spend for more chips and more aluminum...you can afford to get more chips and just use fans. Passivly cooling the same option is what someone would want to pay more for. Otherwise what they are paying more has nothing to do with the cooling really.

The question should have been...
Would you rather purchase a 150lm/w actively cooled system that will maintain 3-5c over ambient.
or
a 143lm/w passively cooled system with no moving parts but will higher operating temp...hence the lower lm/w.

Basically a 4.5-5% loss in output for the benefit of being passive.
 

Rahz

Well-Known Member
My apologies for not detailing the specifics of the lamps, however to suggest it's a loaded and skewed question is bullshit. It doesn't even make sense from an engineering perspective to make 2 same lamps with 2 different cooling options. I didn't suggest they were the same lamp I suggested they were the same wattage... it's right there in the OP, and I did mention in the OP the passive design would have more emitters.

I think the LPW for the passive is a bit inflated but would still come in well over the active design. Active cooling at nominal current would actually be slightly less than 130 LPW running at 3-5C over ambient, and passive cooling at half current would be around 145 LPW running at typical temps.
 
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AquariusPanta

Well-Known Member
My apologies for not detailing the specifics of the lamps, however to suggest it's a loaded and skewed question is bullshit. It doesn't even make sense from an engineering perspective to make 2 same lamps with 2 different cooling options. I didn't suggest they were the same lamp I suggested they were the same wattage... it's right there in the OP, and I did mention in the OP the passive design would have more emitters.

I think the LPW for the passive is a bit inflated but would still come in well over the active design. Active cooling at nominal current would actually be slightly less than 130 LPW running at 3-5C over ambient, and passive cooling at half current would be around 145 LPW running at typical temps.
Please, elaborate upon your reasoning with examples or something because my brain is totally fried tonight... I want to understand how passive cooling would be more effective and what it would take in order to reach that ideal that you hold so high.
 

Tazbud

Well-Known Member
hmmm, a black widow a-tron 8-)

What i'm getting from the 50w h/s stars is that they are good enough to save the lamp (at least @ low current) but perform very well once some airflow is applied. I'm more concentrating on making some sort of additional use of the airflow. As it stands , just catching the top edge of room fan is enough.. 156w cobs + 1 driver = buds !! shazzam!!
Simplicity=simplicity! bongsmilie:D


:peace:
 

AquariusPanta

Well-Known Member
hmmm, a black widow a-tron 8-)

What i'm getting from the 50w h/s stars is that they are good enough to save the lamp (at least @ low current) but perform very well once some airflow is applied. I'm more concentrating on making some sort of additional use of the airflow. As it stands , just catching the top edge of room fan is enough.. 156w cobs + 1 driver = buds !! shazzam!!
Simplicity=simplicity! bongsmilie:D


:peace:
I feel like shazzam would be something MJ would say...



:lol:
 

Tazbud

Well-Known Member
Shazzam

It is stated that the Shazzam is an act of sexual ambush and has been done many times before with out being appropriately titled. Shazzam is the act of a man and woman having sex in doggy style. When the male reaches near climax, he removes his penis from the woman's orifice (be it anus or vag) and spits upon her back. The unsuspecting female, assuming that the deed is done, turns around, only to be introduced to a creamy load of spunk. Upon doing this act, the man exclaims,"SHAZZAM."

"Mmm, baby you done back ther-...-'SHAZZAM'=D"
 

AquariusPanta

Well-Known Member
Shazzam

It is stated that the Shazzam is an act of sexual ambush and has been done many times before with out being appropriately titled. Shazzam is the act of a man and woman having sex in doggy style. When the male reaches near climax, he removes his penis from the woman's orifice (be it anus or vag) and spits upon her back. The unsuspecting female, assuming that the deed is done, turns around, only to be introduced to a creamy load of spunk. Upon doing this act, the man exclaims,"SHAZZAM."

"Mmm, baby you done back ther-...-'SHAZZAM'=D"
Wow, Taz, you just took it there!

:clap:
 

Rahz

Well-Known Member
Please, elaborate upon your reasoning with examples or something because my brain is totally fried tonight... I want to understand how passive cooling would be more effective and what it would take in order to reach that ideal that you hold so high.
The poll was meant to examine response between two "ideas", one being a budget quality fanned lamp, meaning emitters running at manufacturer recommendations (which watt for watt would still outperform bulbs in my estimation) and a basic fanless lamp with double the emitters running at half the current. That that particular passive design would outperform the active design is obvious, and would be fanless which has it's own merits. That is what I presented in the OP, not someone elses idea of what a lamp should be... not necessarily the only two options I'm looking at either. If you check Opticgrow's website, they're not offering V29 lamps at anything less than 1.7A.

One question I've examined is, if I'm getting typical temps without fans is it worth it to add fans just to lower the Tj? And how much money would it save? So far I've only managed to get the temps down to about 9C above ambient. There is an obvious option I haven't examined in depth, but I'm not going to sell a 300w lamp with 8 fans or a 150w lamp with 4 fans because I don't want to see 4x4 tents running 16 fans. 4 at the most, preferably 2.

There's also the cost of the enclosure to consider in an active cooling lamp. I won't be ordering a large lot of custom enclosures from China for cheap. If I commit to enclosures I would have small lots built locally and there's a high cost associated with it. Nixing the full enclosure saves some money which justifies the extra emitters but without a fleet of fans passive is the way to go. Active cooling at half current or less in a custom enclosure is the most expensive option, but it's questionable as to whether the improved temperatures justify the additional cost.

I've been building 300w lamps recently at what I consider the middle ground, running them at 1.4A with a fan. I like the design, and the performance is nice for the price. Maybe that will end up being what I decide on. I was hoping this "simple" poll would help me in that regard :)

@Tazbud I'm getting typical temps at the test point on those radials w V29s @1.05A. Not bad right?
 

Tazbud

Well-Known Member
Wow, Taz, you just took it there!

:clap:
err, I'm sorry, I don't know what came over me!

@Tazbud I'm getting typical temps at the test point on those radials w V29s @1.05A. Not bad right?
?temps.. I'd give the 100w radial h/s a try with 1400ma (thinking CXAs), we all have some airflow in tents or rooms. Personally, starting out (as a buyer), everyone seems to come here looking to cheap out as much as possible, X number of single high output cob units would be feasible with higher currents (you mentioned) & to fit a budget, ufo style/ kessil, hard to enclose (without adding a fan) perhaps??.. a downside, reflectors & lenses, smaller designs than you have planned but would seem to fill a niche..
 
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AquariusPanta

Well-Known Member
The poll was meant to examine response between two "ideas", one being a budget quality fanned lamp, meaning emitters running at manufacturer recommendations (which watt for watt would still outperform bulbs in my estimation) and a basic fanless lamp with double the emitters running at half the current. That that particular passive design would outperform the active design is obvious, and would be fanless which has it's own merits. That is what I presented in the OP, not someone elses idea of what a lamp should be... not necessarily the only two options I'm looking at either. If you check Opticgrow's website, they're not offering V29 lamps at anything less than 1.7A.

I've been building 300w lamps recently at what I consider the middle ground, running them at 1.4A with a fan. I like the design, and the performance is nice for the price. Maybe that will end up being what I decide on. I was hoping this "simple" poll would help me in that regard :)

@Tazbud I'm getting typical temps at the test point on those radials w V29s @1.05A. Not bad right?
I'm still not convinced that the theoretical passive design would outperform the active simply based on the idea that you have more emitters all ran at a lower current... again, proposing a few details on the possible designs between the two approaches (active vs. passive) would help break it down better for others to understand and ultimately voice desires in what they may or may not want to see in a COB-fixture..
 

Rahz

Well-Known Member
>>>I'm still not convinced that the theoretical passive design would outperform the active simply based on the idea that you have more emitters all ran at a lower current

Typical temps at half current is more efficient than ideal temps at full current. The datasheets don't point this out specifically but you can estimate the differences between min and max temps and see that current is more important than temp, at least when we're talking about half current. Examine the datasheet. At nominal current the V29 v2 is 131 LPW at Tj25, which I haven't achieved despite a beefy sink and overpowered fan. It would be slightly under 130 LPW. At 1.05A the ideal temp would provide 150 LPW. Running at typical temps would still put the efficacy in the 140s. Adding fans on top of that already expensive design along with the cost of an enclosure would provide another 5-6 LPW at a cost of around $80 more... which would bump the retail cost for lighting a 4x4 over 300 dollars.
 

Rahz

Well-Known Member
Another thing to consider is that the active designs can achieve lesser weight and dimensions making their shipping easier and cheaper.
That's true, but when you include the weight of the enclosure the difference isn't as great as you might think.
 

alesh

Well-Known Member
That's true, but when you include the weight of the enclosure the difference isn't as great as you might think.
Depends on the design. The way I'd do it, difference would be great.
I can get away with about 2.5 kg HS w/ fan for a 200W lamp. On the other hand, the passive version would be slightly over 10 kg.
I'm assuming 21cm^2/W for active HS and 75cm^2/W for passive HS which also has a thicker base and more widely spaced fins.
Active version would also have smaller footprint.
 

AquariusPanta

Well-Known Member
>>>I'm still not convinced that the theoretical passive design would outperform the active simply based on the idea that you have more emitters all ran at a lower current

Typical temps at half current is more efficient than ideal temps at full current. The datasheets don't point this out specifically but you can estimate the differences between min and max temps and see that current is more important than temp, at least when we're talking about half current. Examine the datasheet. At nominal current the V29 v2 is 131 LPW at Tj25, which I haven't achieved despite a beefy sink and overpowered fan. It would be slightly under 130 LPW. At 1.05A the ideal temp would provide 150 LPW. Running at typical temps would still put the efficacy in the 140s. Adding fans on top of that already expensive design along with the cost of an enclosure would provide another 5-6 LPW at a cost of around $80 more... which would bump the retail cost for lighting a 4x4 over 300 dollars.
Again you miss the point of my post; we, as viewers and pollers, don't know what design you're working on. In other words, without knowing the proposed size of a given heat sink that would be part of a passively cooled fixture, and without giving us some knowledge of how many COBS would be implemented, there's no telling what route would be the better one.

There's so many damn variables that have to be taken into account that it's logically pointless to even speculate on which route is better, based merely on LPW...
 

Rahz

Well-Known Member
Depends on the design. The way I'd do it, difference would be great.
I can get away with about 2.5 kg HS w/ fan for a 200W lamp. On the other hand, the passive version would be slightly over 10 kg.
I'm assuming 21cm^2/W for active HS and 75cm^2/W for passive HS which also has a thicker base and more widely spaced fins.
Active version would also have smaller footprint.
Testing with a 12oz radial design I'm cooling 38 watt emitters to typical temps. Would be nowhere close to 10kg.
 

alesh

Well-Known Member
Testing with a 12oz radial design I'm cooling 38 watt emitters to typical temps. Would be nowhere close to 10kg.
Yeah radial are much better suited for passive cooling. Typical temps means Tc=85°C ?
TBH I don't like radials as I'd have a need to cover them which of course is the opposite you want to do with a passive HS. What's the plan how to incorporate those radials into a good looking fixture?
 

Rahz

Well-Known Member
Again you miss the point of my post; we, as viewers and pollers, don't know what design you're working on. In other words, without knowing the proposed size of a given heat sink that would be part of a passively cooled fixture, and without giving us some knowledge of how many COBS would be implemented, there's no telling what route would be the better one.

There's so many damn variables that have to be taken into account that it's logically pointless to even speculate on which route is better, based merely on LPW...
All that stuff is interesting, especially here and in a DIY context and I don't mind getting into it, but it wasn't really the point of the post. Estimated cost and efficacy is all that's needed to answer what was intended to be a simple poll. One of those lamps I wouldn't consider building anyway :lol: (though I could), but again, not the point. I don't think the average customer will be concerned with the size of the heat sinks or how many COBs there are, except maybe that more COBs = better, which I did mention as a consideration.
 
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