Failsafe for Fan Cooling

dandyrandy

dandyrandy

Well-Known Member
rufus01 said:
Dandyrandy I think this is more ore less your fail safe setup.
behold the masterpiece :mrgreen:

Click to expand...
I also have a sail switch monitor the output from my muffler on the inline carbon filter. Loss of air may stink up the place but it will kill the lights and keep from cooking the vegetables. :clap:
 
R

rufus01

Well-Known Member
hahaha triple protection Dandy

@salmonetin sure AC have neutral (blu) wire but this side of the relay doesn't really "work", is just a normal switch and usually is connected in series to the phase wire (brown).
The side of the relay that really "work" is the one connected to low DC voltage.
The low voltage side became a magnet when excied and simply attract a piece of metal that close the AC side contact.
 
salmonetin

salmonetin

Well-Known Member
ja ja ja i just looking the rele on the wrong side.... sorry bros.. im a bit stoned today :joint::bigjoint:....

...thanks again rufus...

...thanks Atomizer...

...and thanks Guod too...

...my internet connection its too slow... and for this reason some post mine are repetead.... i erase these...sorry...

saludos
 
A

Atomizer

Well-Known Member
I was just going by the SSR graphic in the wiring diagram lol, mechanical relays are the better choice sometimes, you cant get a double throw (changeover) SSR. SSR`s are the better option if you need to switch stuff on/off a few thousand times a day as there`s no contacts to arc or wear out. Another plus is theres no annoying click-click with an SSR ;)
 
dandyrandy

dandyrandy

Well-Known Member
I pulled the fan. It got to 150 in around 5 min.QUOTE="HydroDC, post: 11663029, member: 900112"]How did you decide on 145F? In the high heat crash test that Supra is doing, and reporting on in the thread on "Heatsinks for DIY LED lamps", he notes "almost stabilized, heatsink above 55C (131F) not good". Maybe a lower threshold would be better?[/QUOTE]
 
dandyrandy

dandyrandy

Well-Known Member
HydroDC said:
How did you decide on 145F? In the high heat crash test that Supra is doing, and reporting on in the thread on "Heatsinks for DIY LED lamps", he notes "almost stabilized, heatsink above 55C (131F) not good". Maybe a lower threshold would be better?
Click to expand...
It will depend on wattage running, heat sink etc. I found on the arctic 11 and no fan and I run around 70 w a cob. Sometimes more. Take a tc probe and check a good spot to attatch the thermat switch. It doesn't take long to heat a arctic11 up with no fan at 70 watts. Experiment. I've worked in Electronic Maintenance for 42 years. I'm 60 now. I work on everything from xray equipment to Fanuc CNC machine tools. We experiment as well. More fun. 1.5million dollar machines. Jet engine parts. Loads more fun with $150,000 parts.
 
Abiqua

Abiqua

Well-Known Member
salmonetin said:
....google...

Manual Reset Temperature Switch Thermostat 65ºC

...seems to me i saw some...;)

saludos
Click to expand...

I found some at 5x the price for each one...but that will do....Also bought this relay too Salmo...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/321625626679

I have been working on the Arduino circuit and had some correspondence with SDS over his reflow oven controller and was torn between the Jeeyah circuit...

But going to experiment with this circuit 1st, to free up the Duino'.....then wrap my head around wiring for each individual COB and having only the damage modules cut.....:peace:

thanks for the thread @HydroDC and thanks for the diagram @rufus01
 
UKpeanuts

UKpeanuts

Well-Known Member


Description of the relay:
1. When A1 and A2 (the coil) is energized the contacts will change position.
2. Contact position is always described & drawn in its de energised state
3. Contacts can be in 2 states. Normally open.(NO) or Normally closed (NC)


Description of my set up in the picture.
1. I have 2 NC contacts on my relay. It is shown in the de energized position.
2. the coil voltage in my relay matches the desired fan speed voltage. In my case, 9V.

Normal Operation.

1. In normal situation the FAN PSU is working correctly.
2. FAN PSU supplies the FAN & RELAY with 9V
3. 9V on the coil of my relay means my normally closed contacts will be in the open position.
4. in the open position there is no supply to the BACKUP FAN PSU.

Fault operation

1. In fault situation the FAN PSU is not working.
2. If FAN PSU does not work there is 0V on my coil
3. 0V on the coil of my relay means my normally closed contacts will be in the closed position.
4. in the closed position the BACKUP FAN PSU. has a supply and will continue to operate the cooling fan.
5. I have also added a warning light so I know my main FAN PSU has failed.



---- Tried to explain everything s best I could. I'm running this at the moment after I came in and found a fan not working. Turns out it was just a cable tie had fell into the fan, cob seems okay as it was only at 500mA.
Built this anway.

hope its of some use.
E2A: drew warning light Neg connection to wrong negative
 
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HydroDC

HydroDC

Well-Known Member
UKpeanuts said:



Turns out it was just a cable tie had fell into the fan, cob seems okay as it was only at 500mA.
Built this anway.
Click to expand...
Sounds like what any sane person suffering from OCD would - for instance, what I might do. Loose cable tie stops fan leading to creation of back-up PSU with auto-transfer switch. But what about the next fallen cable tie? Where's Salmo's thermal switch wired to the fan?
 
salmonetin

salmonetin

Well-Known Member
Abiqua said:
and had some correspondence with SDS...
Click to expand...
...lucky you... i hope sds are ok... ...i know that I... Guod... an SDS were never a Team... but for my pov ...we are the old european team... maybe im only dreaming one more time...i dont mind...

...really nice dream... ...but the times go by... for all..

...ups sorry for my offtopic post... ...too stoned today... ...other bad day here in the island...

pd... or we can use one thermostat digital maybe more accurate with rele on board and ntc sensor... similar to MH1210A... (seems to me there are 12 V version too, not only 200-240 V... i think there are 120 V version too)...

.....or one STC1000... other similar too...;)

http://www.ebay.es/itm/Digital-Temperature-Control-Regulator-Controller-MH1210A-40-to-120-200-240V-/330899020567

http://www.da-share.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/12/MH1210A-Manual.pdf


...we can use the controller for various proposites... ...from my pov...;)

...on other things i saw some vids about SRS...




saludos
 
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littlejacob

littlejacob

Well-Known Member
Bonjour!

Doooo...where is the "how to protect my DIY cob panel from big trouble for dummy's" thread?!?
Don't say in my computer... I already opened it and nothing were in,so please save my life I only have one and my son would very angry about me!
Have a nice day
 
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