I'd be willing to bet whatevers in doc's KIT has already been dicussed and rec in one form or another in this thread lol, i went today and read all 500 damn pages of that 420 thread......dudes selling his kit, growing great gardens, but selling akit was my impression too.That's a reasonable post, and I don't entirely disagree. Growing high brix plants is a worthwhile goal. I'm not debating the science with you.
I'm not irritated by his success. I simply look at it as someone trying to cash in. Like I said earlier, nothing wrong with that per se, but I'd prefer to see this info freely shared instead of having people line his pockets in order to get the results.
That's about what my understanding of it was, which is why I build my soil / garden like I do. I'm not completely ignorant of brix levels in soil / plants, it's just not something I've obsessively read up on out of curiosity, like with most of my gardening knowledge.The big goal is more mineral content/vitamins= more flavor, better nutritional value. Even just blackstrap molasses is good for high brix gardening. I feel like rols and high brix is pretty damn close to the same page. Just one is a deeper level than the other.
I am curious myself that- why not use kelp meal? (P?) And what the difference in upkeep would be vs rols? I assumed the same reamendments in rols would eventually up my brix level... in turn be "technically" brix gardening.
I'm gray too..
If my understanding of it all is as sound as I think it is, then I've pretty much nailed this give or take a few things. I'd almost guarantee my soils npk values are way lower than what most people would suggest as I don't amend it as heavily as commonly suggested. I've always taken the concept of "less is more" and that diversity is a catalyst to success, to heart. I'm sure most would probably think my methods are beyond picky because there are no corners I cut, I won't even use ro water anymore. It's either pond water that I've dregged from the bottom (it comes out almost completely opaque because of the organic matter floating around) or spring water with ~1% of Ca. I won't add regular compost anymore, only vermicompost.Interesting. So if I'm understanding this, (thermophilic?)compost could come with a high ratio of potassium, and not enough calcium, which would lead to low brix levels, and food that is not nutrient dense. Does this apply to vermicompost too? I would guess not to the same degree as worm "slime" is Ca rich.
Brix levels are essentially a measurement of dissolved solids. High brix readings are indicative of nutrient rich produce, and in the case of marijuana I gather it's terpene/cannabinoid rich product.
I wouldn't call it a pointless goal, but I'm pretty certain it's not as complicated as some would have us believe to accomplish. Lot's of rock dusts, high levels of Ca, vermicompost instead of thermophilic compost, and innoculating your root zone with mycorrhizal fungi would be a good starting point. I'm still not completely sure why potassium is a bad thing, but I'm hoping testiclees can chime in on that...
This completely backs up my entire concept to gardening, I've never chased quantity over quality. This is something that (Thankfully!!!) my grandparents instilled in me from a young age. So I guess while I'm against the idea of buying a kit to chase brix levels, I'm already in pursuit of it. Though probably not to the highest capacity that I could.Also another idea is that huge yields dont equal great quality especially w produce but also w cannabis. Soils that are continuosly enriched with compost may deliver big tomatoes but not likely high nutrition tomatoes. Im not gonna get into that but i can say that high brix produce definitely is more flavorful and more desirable to chefs. I interact with chefs, farmers and farmers markets all the time in my business.
Higher minersls and higher sugars tastes amazingly different in anything from cauliflower to boysenberries.
Kelp mealHey everybody, going to try and giving living soil a trial run for a 3 run test to see how i do. I'm going to set up a garden bed on castors in my flower tent that can accommodate 2-3 small to medium plants in a single row (unless it is more beneficial to have them in their own separate containers but it would seem to me it's more natural and easier to do a whole bed). I just want to cut the plant, remove the large roots, fill in with compost, casting, rock dust mix and replant asap. Just had a couple questions...
What are the best sources for micronutrients when growing in living soil?? does the compost supply a lot of them? I'm talking the B, Cu, Mn, Mb, Cl, all that stuff. I've been looking at kelp meal but can't seem to find any info as to what micronutrients it provides (among the other things but i'm more insterested in the micros so my nutrient profile is complete). i'll be using oyster shell dust for Ca. How about magnesium... should i just water in epsom salts? I'm going to be including the rock dust trace minerals: azomite, and some form of basaltic (volcanic) rock dust, maybe even the glacial too; why the hell not?
I can't seem to find a good local compost.... is there a high enough quality brand name alternative that you guys know of at a decent deal to ship (though this is not preferred, I'd rather buy local).
that will be all for now. dont want to overwhelm anyone! Thanks
How to use kelp mealDon any recommendations on reliable source for the soluble seaweed? Currently using Neptune's harvest seaweed fertilizer if that will do ? and for SRP I'm using calphos. Drop some knowledge on me if you don't mind, I'm open.
really stow i have no clue weather the high k is from the compost components itself, or the action of beaking it down . i use worm poop alot but i feed my worms my compost! lol .Interesting. So if I'm understanding this, (thermophilic?)compost could come with a high ratio of potassium, and not enough calcium, which would lead to low brix levels, and food that is not nutrient dense. Does this apply to vermicompost too? I would guess not to the same degree as worm "slime" is Ca rich.
Brix levels are essentially a measurement of dissolved solids. High brix readings are indicative of nutrient rich produce, and in the case of marijuana I gather it's terpene/cannabinoid rich product.
I wouldn't call it a pointless goal, but I'm pretty certain it's not as complicated as some would have us believe to accomplish. Lot's of rock dusts, high levels of Ca, vermicompost instead of thermophilic compost, and innoculating your root zone with mycorrhizal fungi would be a good starting point. I'm still not completely sure why potassium is a bad thing, but I'm hoping testiclees can chime in on that...
I think you're in the wrong thread. This is the ROLS thread. We don't need anyone's stupid gimmicks. We can grow weed with crap in our backyard.Youre all salty dude...doc himself praised all those the cannabis cup flowers he sampled. he talks about other great bud often.
real simply id say you are talking out your ass. Concerning yourself with "implications" and dismissive of accepted soil chemistry and micro biology you havent got an insight youre busy grinding your ax
that's how I fucked up a grow of mine, yrs ago, you guys may read me warning others NOT to use BSM as a nutrient..Interesting. Being that Potassium and Calcium are both Cations this makes sense. I don't purposely add a ton of K so I've never really considered the antagonism between the two.
anyone that EVER advocates NOT using compost is straight up insane, or an idiot.From what I understand high brix soil is built with minerals in mind. High in Ca as well. Coots recipe calls for 4 cups of minerals/rock dust per cf, and upwards of 1 cup per cf of something high in calcium carbonate like oyster shell flower. People find that the soil gets better with time, so I suspect that due to the slow rate at which minerals are processed by soil microbes people are finding better results in successive generations. This is where the "no compost" thing makes me scratch my head. Wouldn't the microbes (and humus for other reasons) from compost be beneficial in this regard?
Also, why is potassium frowned upon? IMO kelp meal is one of the best amendments there is.
important to mention that.I would at least keep the soil bed whole so you don't have to worry about the soil web, water, and nutrients falling short. You can also plant cover crops to increase production, I love yarrow and chamomile(clover attracts mites!). I've experienced with sog that reaching around the back to deal with plants will become a big pain, but I hate hard work lol. It will become a high humidity microclimate after the plants fill in and any changes or moving from there is hell. I'm not sure if you decided on spacing but 7 inch spacing with a foot of pot height would make them happy as all get out. And a foot and a half height would be gardening without effort
Hey hey hey I did my research before I decided not to switch. And holy crap man you are seriously butt hurt they figured out high brix without doc. I know that you guys love mychorhizae, I know you spray your leaves all the time to gives those plants every little mineral. I know you rely on rock phosphate, potassium, and calcium in those foliar sprays. You make up silly names for your nutrients, why I didn't buy, hate the hydronaming, just tell me whats in it. But really all it is, is the same stuff we use. oh and You add a little sugar to give the plant and whatever is on the leaf a kick. But remember to foliar spray! It really isn't that hard to understand.you dont bro. like the other folks here you dont know wtf youre talking about when it comes to high brix.
Sure there are many, many ways to grow great plants. No one is suggesting otherwise. However more opinions with Zero experience and even less research or understanding amounts to nothing more than ignorant bullshit. youre in good company on this thread of dry lab experts.
mixing up some neem / ksil/ eggshell vinigar/ h2o2 tonight for the outdoor girls love to foliar . i say compost is king for my veggies but i add ALOT of oyster shells so i hope that helps .... never seems like compost hurts... these plant must have WAY too much "K"Hey hey hey I did my research before I decided not to switch. And holy crap man you are seriously butt hurt they figured out high brix without doc. I know that you guys love mychorhizae, I know you spray your leaves all the time to gives those plants every little mineral. I know you rely on rock phosphate, potassium, and calcium in those foliar sprays. You make up silly names for your nutrients, why I didn't buy, hate the hydronaming, just tell me whats in it. But really all it is, is the same stuff we use. oh and You add a little sugar to give the plant and whatever is on the leaf a kick. But remember to foliar spray! It really isn't that hard to understand.
Ive never done the eggshell vinegar because it terrifies me to spray acetic acid on plants. Seriously, no bad effects from that? I use gypsum, calcium and sulfur and readily dissolves. But I do throw hard boiled egg shells all over the soil.mixing up some neem / ksil/ eggshell vinigar/ h2o2 tonight for the outdoor girls love to foliar . i say compost is king for my veggies but i add ALOT of oyster shells so i hope that helps .... never seems like compost hurts... these plant must have WAY too much "K"
bro its clear im not in the wrong thread.there is info sharing going on here. you want to shut it down with an asinine pronouncement. noI think you're in the wrong thread. This is the ROLS thread. We don't need anyone's stupid gimmicks. We can grow weed with crap in our backyard.
P-
Can I ask why the burnt shells are calcium and the unburnt are phosphorus? Doesn't really make sense. I'll give it a shot. The acetic acid protonates the carbonate releasing the calcium and producing carbon dioxide if anyone wondered why it bubbles and all that.at a tbls per gallon its not alot of acetic . with ksil at 1ml per gallon it passes jar tests...
http://theunconventionalfarmer.com/recipes/calphos/
CalPhos
This is an awesome product you can make from ingredients found in your kitchen. It is a nutrient solution for plants just entering the flowering cycle. There is an overlapping activity of Phosporous and Potassium during flowering. In natural farming, we apply calphos before the flower initiation to support the eventual fruit. In simplistic terms, we use Phosphorous to address the root system, which will enable the plant to access better water and nutrients from the soil to support the critical changeover as manifested by flower initiation. We use Calcium to strengthen the plant in preparation for heavy flowers/fruits. Thus, natural farming emphasizes Phosphorus and Calcium during the changeover period from growing to flowering/fruiting, and this provides for that need.
***For an illustrated example of this recipe, check out the farm log here. The flog has all kinds of good stuff, sign up to get the updates via email!***
How to Make
- Collect a bunch of eggshells and wash to remove inside filaments. Remember, you can also use bones and other good sources of calcium like seashells, clams and oysters, etc. Likewise, if you only want calcium, even limestone can be used, or simple lime.
- Pan fry the eggshells. Fry until some are brown/black, some white. The burnt shells are your Calcium source while the white are the Phosphorus source.
- After roasting the eggshells, grind them up. You can do it manually, with a mortar and pestle, throw them in a blender or electric coffee grinder, etc.
- Add them to a jar and add 5 parts vinegar by volume. For example, if you have 1 cup ground shells, add 5 cups vinegar.
- The acid in the vinegar helps digest them. You will notice bubbling as this process converts the ingredients to liquid calcium phosphate.
- Wait until tiny bubbles disappear
- Seal the jar and ferment for 20 days.
- Filter into another jar
- Now you’ve made your own Calcium Phosphate
How to Use
Mix 1tbsp per gallon
Plants
Animals:
- spray on leaves during transition phase to flower, and when fruits are large and mature
- Transition Phase: Induces flowering, eases nutrient demands of transition phase, strengthens flowers
- Mature Fruit: Strengthens plant stems, leaves, fruits, helps fruit mature properly for optimum sweet flavor!
Share this:
- Feed to animals during breeding time and during pregnancy. Helps breeding efficacy and litter success rates. Woohoo!
However the fermentation is brilliant! Apperently acetate(acetic acid without the proton(hydrogen)) can decompose to methane and carbon dioxide gas. Have you ever had a jar explode from pressure?Can I ask why the burnt shells are calcium and the unburnt are phosphorus? Doesn't really make sense. I'll give it a shot. The acetic acid protonates the carbonate releasing the calcium and producing carbon dioxide if anyone wondered why it bubbles and all that.
pure water 0ppm and 7 ph with 148 grams of agsil 16 to 1 liter water and a perfectly clean jar .
GIMMICK: In marketing language, a gimmick is a unique or quirky special feature that makes something "stand out" from its contemporaries. However, the special feature is typically thought to be of little relevance or use. Thus, a gimmick is a special feature for the sake of having a special feature.bro its clear im not in the wrong thread.there is info sharing going on here. you want to shut it down with an asinine pronouncement. no
you get all of coots amendments in your back yard? No you dont. youre a hypocrite.
look up the meaning of gimmick before using it ignorantly. if you grasped whats been addressed here you would be aware that the efficacy of the product is not in question. Hence it isnt a gimmick.