Recycled Organic Living Soil (ROLS) and No Till Thread

[Midwest Weedist]

"Under acid soil conditions, boron is more water-soluble and can therefore be leached below the root-zones of plants by rainfall or irrigations. It has also been shown that symptoms of boron deficiency are associated with high soil pH values (alkaline conditions)"

If my thinking is correct, all of the rain my area has gotten could very well have leached out the boron from the root zone. Or at least enough that my clover is unhappy. This could explain why my grandparents raspberries and blueberries are struggling.

 

[Mohican]

I was using Advanced Nutrients Jungle Juice Micro to keep my micro needs met:

Then I replaced this with Grow More Seaweed Extract liquid to get the micronutrients organically.


Grow More Seaweed Extract offers a all natural organic non-toxic product that leaves no residue on crops. May be applied anytime during the growing season through harvest.

Growers can expect a variety of benefits from using Grow More Seaweed Extract. Research and field trials have demonstrated benefits such as improved root development, more vigorous growth, increased resistance to environmental stress and reduced frost damage.

Our Grow More Seaweed Extract contains naturally balanced chelated trace elements such as boron, molybdenum, copper, zinc, manganese, iron, and cobalt. The natural chelating agents are alginic acid and mannitol.


Seaweed Extract contains low concentration of naturally occuring plant growth factor. As a foliar spray, use 1 teaspoon (5 grams) per gallon of water or use 11 ozs. (310 grams) in 50 to 100 gallons (189-380 liters of water per 4,050 sq. meters) of water per acre. Apply foliar spray as fine-misting spray to wet foliage. A biodegradable sticker/spreader like Grow More spray enhancer can be used to maximize dispersal and adherence.

Do not apply in the heat of the say or in dty windy conditions. Early morning or late evening applications are best. Best results will be achieved by making more frequent applications every 2 to 3 weeks rather than increasing the concentration of the spray solution.

 

[ShLUbY]

Ok all. I'm working on reading this entire thread... i'm 10% there haha. i've learned a shit ton in the first 30 pages already. I'm just looking for a little feedback of what i'm trying to put together in my head for when i get started on ROLS pots...

I'm thinking of doing 2 15gal to start out with so i can test my abilities before going full scale for my whole tent, and also will use the rest of the supplies i have for my current grow methods which is minimally bottle fed soil (have been adding amendments recently) but not recycled of course.
- 1 of the 15 gal i want to use coco for the base mix and the other 15 gal i want to use peat and just see a side by side for which one i get to perform better over a 3 harvest test run. I'm sure others wouldn't mind seeing some results from this either if it hasn't been posted yet.

- I think i'll be sticking with 1 mmj plant per container... trying to keep them in the total height (plant + container) below 50" as that's what my ceiling space will allow with proper hood height (600 watt hps per 4 plants)

- i'm thinking about using the pumice of various sizes because i think i read that pumice is like 4x cheaper than pearlite, can someone confirm this? Plus i also heard that pearlite will break down into basically sand fairly quickly.

- soil mix is going to be 30% compost, 30% pumice, 30% coco or peat, 10% biochar (home made or cowboy brand i'll crush myself since i have it already). from what i read topdressing 2" of worm castings at planting in the bed is also recommended. as well as a cover crop before planting in.

- Looking at some soil amendments from a MI based company (i live in MI so i like keeping $ local). The company is called Organically Done. I was wondering if any of you have the time to check out the website if you could give me an opinion on if they seem ligit to you, as they APPEAR to me haha... trying to not be naive!
- the amendments i'm currently looking at are the Greensand, Kelp Meal, Bone Char, Oyster Shell Flour, and
Alfalfa Meal.
- I also have the Liquid Humic and Fulvic from them...
- Other soil ammendments will include Azomite and Other rock dusts (1-2 lbs per cubic foot i think i read??)

- I'm going to be purchasing some aloe plants to grow so i can have that resource on hand for drenchs/foliars (and for my own internal and external use!). I pretty much always have coconut or coconut water at the house cause i'm hooked on it haha.

- does anyone use the probiotic EM-1?? I've heard some good things

- not that i ever have pests but with the living soil i think IPMs are going to become a regular... do you continue IPMs after week 3 of flower?? just don't really like spraying anything on those buds i mean i'm sure you don't spray to the point of seriously heavy drip...

Other things i'm still learning about are SST's and the living buggies (worms and other beneficials), how to make effective compost teas, and gonna be looking into a drip system so i don't have to hand water anymore (pain in the back!). but i'll try and find some more info before i start asking about them...

thanks to all and i'm loving this thread. this is the future.

 

[st0wandgrow]

Ok all. I'm working on reading this entire thread... i'm 10% there haha. i've learned a shit ton in the first 30 pages already. I'm just looking for a little feedback of what i'm trying to put together in my head for when i get started on ROLS pots...

I'm thinking of doing 2 15gal to start out with so i can test my abilities before going full scale for my whole tent, and also will use the rest of the supplies i have for my current grow methods which is minimally bottle fed soil (have been adding amendments recently) but not recycled of course.
- 1 of the 15 gal i want to use coco for the base mix and the other 15 gal i want to use peat and just see a side by side for which one i get to perform better over a 3 harvest test run. I'm sure others wouldn't mind seeing some results from this either if it hasn't been posted yet.

- I think i'll be sticking with 1 mmj plant per container... trying to keep them in the total height (plant + container) below 50" as that's what my ceiling space will allow with proper hood height (600 watt hps per 4 plants)

- i'm thinking about using the pumice of various sizes because i think i read that pumice is like 4x cheaper than pearlite, can someone confirm this? Plus i also heard that pearlite will break down into basically sand fairly quickly.

- soil mix is going to be 30% compost, 30% pumice, 30% coco or peat, 10% biochar (home made or cowboy brand i'll crush myself since i have it already). from what i read topdressing 2" of worm castings at planting in the bed is also recommended. as well as a cover crop before planting in.

- Looking at some soil amendments from a MI based company (i live in MI so i like keeping $ local). The company is called Organically Done. I was wondering if any of you have the time to check out the website if you could give me an opinion on if they seem ligit to you, as they APPEAR to me haha... trying to not be naive!
- the amendments i'm currently looking at are the Greensand, Kelp Meal, Bone Char, Oyster Shell Flour, and
Alfalfa Meal.
- I also have the Liquid Humic and Fulvic from them...
- Other soil ammendments will include Azomite and Other rock dusts (1-2 lbs per cubic foot i think i read??)

- I'm going to be purchasing some aloe plants to grow so i can have that resource on hand for drenchs/foliars (and for my own internal and external use!). I pretty much always have coconut or coconut water at the house cause i'm hooked on it haha.

- does anyone use the probiotic EM-1?? I've heard some good things

- not that i ever have pests but with the living soil i think IPMs are going to become a regular... do you continue IPMs after week 3 of flower?? just don't really like spraying anything on those buds i mean i'm sure you don't spray to the point of seriously heavy drip...

Other things i'm still learning about are SST's and the living buggies (worms and other beneficials), how to make effective compost teas, and gonna be looking into a drip system so i don't have to hand water anymore (pain in the back!). but i'll try and find some more info before i start asking about them...

thanks to all and i'm loving this thread. this is the future.

I live in MI too. I have used various Organically Done products with good results.

If you live anywhere near the Detroit Metro area there is a feed shop in Rochester called "Uncle Luke's" that carries most everything you will need. The owners are hip to the medical marijuana scene so don't be afraid to ask them to order specific items that they may not currently have in stock. Best of luck...

 

[ShLUbY]

I live in MI too. I have used various Organically Done products with good results.

If you live anywhere near the Detroit Metro area there is a feed shop in Rochester called "Uncle Luke's" that carries most everything you will need. The owners are hip to the medical marijuana scene so don't be afraid to ask them to order specific items that they may not currently have in stock. Best of luck...

yeah i have a local shop here by me but i'm not terribly far from Detroit Metro. Glad you're liking their products, i'm getting quite the collection of them now haha.

 

[BobBitchen]

just finished reading all 301 pages...fuq me there's a lot of information here...
gonna go back and re-read the first 100 or so pages again.
tnx to all of ya for the great info

 

[Midwest Weedist]

you should probably get a speed controller for that fan. If it cools too much. Below operating temp. It can cut down on spectral output by 10%-20% and the glass already cuts off 15% spectral output.

I was reading back through the thread and bumped into this again. It had never really dawned on me that airflow could actually alter the spectral output. It makes me wonder how much "light" I'm wasting, considering I run a cooltube with a 530cfm fan pulling air across it.

 

[ShLUbY]

is the main source of Si coming from the rock dusts for ROLS or is there a tea or some amendment that is the preferred method of delivery. I'm working on reading this whole thread but can only take in so much info so often haha. Can't remember if i've come across this yet or not...

 

[Scotch089]

Agsil for silica but others debate there is already enough in soil/or don't see any difference

 

[ShLUbY]

one more thing, when applying foliars... is it a common practice to do them in-between needed waters. So say i water today and i wait until tomorrow night before lights out to foliar... and then water a day or two after foliar (if necessary of course)??

 

[Mohican]

My lights were hot and I would foliar a fine mist two or three times a day. They loved it and were dry a half hour later.

 

[Joedank]

is the main source of Si coming from the rock dusts for ROLS or is there a tea or some amendment that is the preferred method of delivery. I'm working on reading this whole thread but can only take in so much info so often haha. Can't remember if i've come across this yet or not...

basalt rock dust and D.E. are abundunt with Si...

 

[Mohican]

Teas made with dandelions are high in available Si among other benificials.

 

[ShLUbY]

Cool thanks.

Any ROLS people using strictly LED lights? I'm considering switching just for the heat factor alone, but i'm really attatched to my two 600 HPS. I have a 12,000 BTU floor AC unit that does 500cuft, 60pint dehuey, and co2 tank and reg. I'm leaning towards a sealed room to have better control of the VPD. I wouldn't run the CO2 hot. just 400-500 band (i know, 500 is above atmospheric co2 but shouldn't be potent i wouldn't think). Gotta get a controller first though. Have everything else!

just wondering if anyone has switched over from 600 to HPS and has been pleased with the results... and how much i should be looking to spend on a decent lamp. seems like ~400$ is the min...

 

[Scotch089]

Yea several do.

@foreverflyhi @hyroot @PSUAGRO. @SupraSPL

 

[DonPetro]

@DonTesla

Cool thanks.

Any ROLS people using strictly LED lights? I'm considering switching just for the heat factor alone, but i'm really attatched to my two 600 HPS. I have a 12,000 BTU floor AC unit that does 500cuft, 60pint dehuey, and co2 tank and reg. I'm leaning towards a sealed room to have better control of the VPD. I wouldn't run the CO2 hot. just 400-500 band (i know, 500 is above atmospheric co2 but shouldn't be potent i wouldn't think). Gotta get a controller first though. Have everything else!

just wondering if anyone has switched over from 600 to HPS and has been pleased with the results... and how much i should be looking to spend on a decent lamp. seems like ~400$ is the min...

 

[SupraSPL]

Cool thanks.

Any ROLS people using strictly LED lights? I'm considering switching just for the heat factor alone, but i'm really attatched to my two 600 HPS. I have a 12,000 BTU floor AC unit that does 500cuft, 60pint dehuey, and co2 tank and reg. I'm leaning towards a sealed room to have better control of the VPD. I wouldn't run the CO2 hot. just 400-500 band (i know, 500 is above atmospheric co2 but shouldn't be potent i wouldn't think). Gotta get a controller first though. Have everything else!

just wondering if anyone has switched over from 600 to HPS and has been pleased with the results... and how much i should be looking to spend on a decent lamp. seems like ~400$ is the min...

If you aim for 600W of COB to replace 1200W HPS you should increase your yield. Example build:
(12) CXB3590 3500K CD 36v @ 1.4A ($600)
(3) Mean Well HLG-185H-C1400 drivers ($200)
(6) 5.88"X24" heatsinks ($275)
588W dissipation @ 56.34% = 331 PAR W - 10% lens/reflector/wall losses = 298 PAR W in canopy and 290W heat (257 in heatsink)

Assuming brand new bulb and reflector with cooled hoods, the 1200W HPS @ 36% = 432 PAR W - 20% reflector losses - 10% glass losses -5% wall/scatter = 296 PAR W in canopy and 904W heat

So they both have the same PAR W in the canopy but the COBs can be setup for better uniformity and 80 CRi rather than the 20 CRi of HPS. One third the heat to do the same job that is insane.

As far as how that relates to ROLS, I believe that ROLS improves cannabinoid and terpene characteristics of any variety and I also believe that LEDs improve cannabinoid and terp quality on top of that due to increase blue and decreased bud temperature, a great combo

 

[ShLUbY]

If you aim for 600W of COB to replace 1200W HPS you should increase your yield. Example build:
(12) CXB3590 3500K CD 36v @ 1.4A ($600)
(3) Mean Well HLG-185H-C1400 drivers ($200)
(6) 5.88"X24" heatsinks ($275)
588W dissipation @ 56.34% = 331 PAR W - 10% lens/reflector/wall losses = 298 PAR W in canopy and 290W heat (257 in heatsink)

Assuming brand new bulb and reflector with cooled hoods, the 1200W HPS @ 36% = 432 PAR W - 20% reflector losses - 10% glass losses -5% wall/scatter = 296 PAR W in canopy and 904W heat

So they both have the same PAR W in the canopy but the COBs can be setup for better uniformity and 80 CRi rather than the 20 CRi of HPS. One third the heat to do the same job that is insane.

As far as how that relates to ROLS, I believe that ROLS improves cannabinoid and terpene characteristics of any variety and I also believe that LEDs improve cannabinoid and terp quality on top of that due to increase blue and decreased bud temperature, a great combo
View attachment 3476375View attachment 3476378

yeah I feel the 904W heat. that's mainly why i want to change lighting, and I definitely have been noticing how high my leaf/bud temps are in the sweet spot of my HPS (I think you may have explained why the nugs just below the cola are always my favorite...) I'm currently not in ROLS right now, but i'm educating myself to get there before the winter comes. I really appreciate you taking the time to reply. Beautiful lookin nugs, look at the brown hairs on that strain! Never see them get that dark definitely have the frost going on that's for sure!

 

[ShLUbY]

lol also just noticed huge type in the bottom of my original lighting question... "switched over from 600 to HPS" should have read 600 HPS to LED! LOL good medication... i think so

 

[ShLUbY]

information overload. I decided I'm going to stop at page 100, and go back through and reread now that I am more familiar with this. I have started a word pad that I will keep highly organized notes as a guide to ROLS. I'm sure upon completion of this thread i'll be ready to cook some soil. I'm finding a lot of good info so far and i've learned already the higher the quality of ingredient, the less amount of total ingredients one needs to amend soil with. After all, we're not making super soil here!!