Good question.........recall?
.....if the draw is not what's on the spec sheet, they have a problem.
try DeOxit, it's the bees kneesGood question.........recall?
I would still try to clean the brass thread/ pin with alcohol and qtip/cloth/whatever, brass oxides rather quick and make sure the pin is pulled up for a solid connection and see if that helps?
What model mag ballast are you using btw?
Welllllll... I put my Kill-A-Watt on a different lamp and ballast and guess what? IT'S pulling 1100W too!Good question.........recall?
I would still try to clean the brass thread/ pin with alcohol and qtip/cloth/whatever, brass oxides rather quick and make sure the pin is pulled up for a solid connection and see if that helps?
What model mag ballast are you using btw?
No shit, what's the actual spec sheet say for this bulb? On the phone atm, also have no personal experience with that specific all start bulb, just the 330w/205w.......you need to test a 1000w hps/mh bulb to see if the losses are really that bad with your particular mag ballast(s)
i'm telling you man, that's normal.
I'm going to have to try one of those Also, just a warning to other growers, don't order the incandescent kit; it's a rip off.Here's a thread about some "other lighting" than LED.
Phillips has a new lamp and fixture to replace the Ceramic Metal-Halide. It comes in 315 watts, and supposedly replaces a 600w or more. The PAR and UV output are better, and I've heard that there is very little heat produced. It also has a CRI of 92.
I haven't used one, but a friend is using several now. I think I would spend $600 on one of these before I spent the same amount on an LED fixture.
I was wondering if anyone here is using them, or if you have an opinion about them.
I can do that easily enough. I'll let you know.
I don't know, all I care about is my actual draw. I'm drawing way too much, no matter what the excuse.
yea, i agree draw is wats important. i always thought "How can a bulb reduce what a ballast is producing". every set up reduces @ the ballast... U dim a 1k bulb to about 600, not use a 600watt and expect the ballast to lower its load for it
I believe that advances in indoor growing technology are measured in efficiency and performance improvements.
Efficiency is a core consideration. The only reason I see so many crazy growing schemes is because the value of the finished product supports such foolishness. If cannabis was the same price as cardamom, cost cutting would be king.
Fifty to seventy five watts is normal for magnetic ballasts. 100W is acceptable. 240W is just a fuckin' ripoff.
This is my thinking, too. So why bother if the ballast can't discriminate? I'm not a happy camper, noooo sirreee!
I'm throughly unimpressed with my 315s. I replaced 6 600s with 6 315s and yields went from 8 lbs to 4.5 to 5 at best. I'll b doing one more run with them, if it doesn't get better I'll be getting rid of them.
That's normal for 600s not a 1000 man, and not magnetics, at least not from what I've been taught/read, but i'm absolutely not an expert.
...Except that we're supposedly starting this additional power for the ballast calculation from the 860W rating of the CDM lamp, not a thousand watts.
im happy with the switch to lec so far..id say the 315 is more comparable to a 400 hps or maybe 500 watts not a 600.. my temp is controled the same no matter the lamp im using...im on my second run with lec and so far things look good, first run couldve been better but i still got over a gpw..this run 945 watts lec should pull me 1000-1200 grams dry weight but we will see..
ahhh, I see your complaint, my bad, I didn't understand you fully.