OK SO, I HAVE BEEN GROWING FOR A FEW YEARS NOW. I HAVE A 600 WATT LIGHT SYSTEM. I USUALLY HAVE 5 PLANTS IN THE SPACE, I USE FOX FARM NUTES AS WELL AS THE SOIL (OCEAN FOREST). I WOULD LIKE TO START DOING THE PPM IN MY GROW BUT ALWAYS SCARED I WAS GOING TO RUIN MY GROW. NOW I WOULD LIKE TO GET TO KNOW A LITTLE BETTER. COULD ANY ONE EXPLAIN PPM AND HOW TO ADJUST. LIKE I SAID IM USING THE FOX FARM TRIO NUTES
PPM for soil
- Thread starter MICHUSA
- Start date
theslipperbandit
Well-Known Member
There is no need for it man unless ur in coco or hydro but if you insist type ppm into the riu search bar n there u go
theslipperbandit
Well-Known Member
Imma switch from soil to coco when ive all my soil shit used up n hand feed em..simples
kiwipaulie
Well-Known Member
Too true. When I started out I always checked my ppm. Now days I don't even really check my ph.
ryan1918
Well-Known Member
welcome, where in michigan are you from? Saginaw here happy growing
I'm in soil and I like to monitor my PPMs. I start with 150ppm water and add about 300-400ppm nutrients. I try to feed enough volume for 10-20% runoff. I monitor the runoff ppms to see salt buildup. I either increase runoff or decrease strength. (I tend toward 20% runoff and stronger nutrients. But 10% and weaker could be better).
That's just for dialing things in. After I discovered the numbers that work, I never measure my nutrient ppms. I check my runoff ppms 2-3 times in transition through flower (just to make sure I'm where I should be).
Runoff ppms are very helpful to realize you have nute lockout in flower. I spent a long time trying to fix a ph problem which turned out to be salt buildup. If I had monitored my runoff ppms, I would have saw it as it hapened. Basically, I like to be around 1200-1800ppm in flower. 2500 is where lockout starts to show in the plant. If I hit 2000 I reduce nutes, feed more volume for runoff. 2200, I feed mild nutes and 100% runoff.
IMO, best thing you could do is understand the NPK ratio resulting from your boutique "trio." Play with mixing those bottles differently to get give your plant what it needs at various stages of growth. And, best of all, when you focus on NPK ratios you can *easily* get out of those proprietary "lineups" and use virtually any products to reach the same NPK ratios. (It helps you "read your plant" instead of a boutique "schedule").
This spreadsheet makes it easy to see the details of what you're feeding, how changing the mixed amounts affects the NPK ratio, or how other products can produce the same ratio.
ryan1918
Well-Known Member
Why would you need to monitor ppm's in soil tough makes no sense?
different strokes for different folks
Rrog
Well-Known Member
Thank you
Dr. Who
Well-Known Member
superbak3d
Well-Known Member
Been using FF for years. dunno wtf you're talking about.
Dr.Pecker
Well-Known Member
You should read up and find out what I'm talking about.
superbak3d
Well-Known Member
Why would Foxfarm make their own nutrient line up kill their own soil?
Sounds pretty fucking stupid to me. So no, I'm not going to read into something that clearly isn't true.
Sounds pretty fucking stupid to me. So no, I'm not going to read into something that clearly isn't true.
hotrodharley
Well-Known Member
I do use EC in every grow I do anymore. I am not recommending, and I am not using, FF nutes. What I am posting this for is for you to see the EC and the rise, and drops, in it. Note the changes. I am a retired nurse and did dialysis the last 5 years I worked. It's easier to set a protocol - such as PPM/EC consistently - and not have a problem. Like when switching to hydro because nearly everybody wants to sooner or later. Understand it in soil and DWC is easy and you won't be on here "Help! My babies are all fucked up".
Dr.Pecker
Well-Known Member
Because foxfarm is retarded. Don't read up on it then I don't really care. It is true every other thread is about fox farm and some kind of problem people are having with it.