420texan710
Member
I am currently growing in soil, I just got my growers toolbox in and I was wondering which setting I should use the 500 or 700? I plan on switching to hydro soon so will I have to switch it then?
Help with bluelab ppm meter
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Hessam
Well-Known Member
Change the unit to EC. Hold "units" button for 3 seconds and change the conductivity unit to EC. But if you wanna measure your solutions in PPM, PPM 500 is american conversion factor and PPM 700 is european.
420texan710
Member
Ok thank you! Is it better to measure conductivity? I'm new to this whole meter thing.
Hessam
Well-Known Member
EC is very simple IMO.
420texan710
Member
Why is that? Also what ranges should I be in at different stages of my grow using ec?
420texan710
Member
Thank you! I tested my veg mixture and its at 910, but my plants seem to be loving it. I'm not sure what the ph is yet though because the ph meter is still soaking for the 24hr period so they might not be getting 100% of everything. I'm growing dinafems blue hash so it's mainly indica.
I've grown it before, it was a freebie from Attitude before. Don't water w/o knowing the pH, 6.3-6.5 (never higher) in dirt. It takes a minute or two for the meter to adjust when you use pH up and down so give it a chance to adjust before using the water. Also, keep the pH meter clean, the ppm meter not as important. Also, make sure your water is not too warm, 65 -68 degrees is perfect.
Let the plants tell you when it's too much ferts (burnt leaf tips) or not enough (plants have light green color). Look at my Green Poison grow picture I posted today in the grow forum for perfect coloring if you wish.
Let the plants tell you when it's too much ferts (burnt leaf tips) or not enough (plants have light green color). Look at my Green Poison grow picture I posted today in the grow forum for perfect coloring if you wish.
wyomingbarber
Well-Known Member
Remember to calibrate your meters as well and it is important to clean the terminals on the ppm meter as well as soak the ph meter occasionally to keep probe from drying out. I've had the set for two years now and they still work perfectly
AKGrowAreo
Well-Known Member
Depends on what nutes your running. My understanding is that all of the botanicare nute recommendations are based on the 700 scale so that's what I use
sanjuan
Well-Known Member
See, that's the advantage of using EC--we don't have to ask or say what conversion factor is being used like when a ppm number is given.
http://www.kindgreenbuds.com/marijuana-grow-guide/difference-between-ppm-and-ec/
http://www.kindgreenbuds.com/marijuana-grow-guide/difference-between-ppm-and-ec/
I use Botanicare Pure Blend Pro but DO NOT FOLLOW their feeding schedule....it's way too hot and the plants don't need that much fertilizer.
I calibrate the meters once after each crop...no need to do it more often.
And yes, NEVER let the pH meter sit in fresh water (fert water only) and don't let it dry out or you'll be buying a new one.
AKGrowAreo
Well-Known Member
You are correct about the botanicare solution being too hot. I should have mentioned that.
I do follow the Botanicare recomendations for hydroguard (2ml/gal) and silica blast (2-4ml/gal) and I add those to my res first, but then I mix PBP 750ml, with the cal mag 250ml, humic acid 200ml (liquids karma), and carbs 300ml (sweet) and mix with water in a pitcher. Then I add my mixture a little at a time until I reach about 800 to 1000 ppm on the 700 ppm scale. This works pretty good for me. How do you feed yours @SSHZ ?
More simply than that........I watch the plants very closely, and visually make fertilizer adjustments each watering. I don't use any set schedule, as I've been doing this a very long time and have a good feel for it all.
I basically use the Pure Blend Pro as I stated above with 10ml Cal/mag each gallon, Z7 from Flying Skull which acts as an enzyme so the fertilizer can be better absorbed and, Floralicious by General hydroponics- but it's hard to give exact measurements as they vary from watering to watering. As the buds move further along, I add a bud booster but the manufacturer various from crop to crop. I'm currently, or about to, use something from Advanced Nutrients but I can't remember the name right now. I used it last crop with good success. I'll edit the name in later when I'm in the basement to check. (Overdrive by AN and Hydroplex by Botanicare)
As I'm coming into week 5 on monday, I'll only be using bloom fertilizer thru the end of week 7, then very little of anything the last 2 weeks. Weeks 6 and 7 I really up my ppm as this strain I'm doing loves it- maybe up to 1300-1400 ppm but generally I'm never above 1200 ppm and usually around 1100 ppm.
I'm on the 500 scale, so our numbers don't transfer equally.
I basically use the Pure Blend Pro as I stated above with 10ml Cal/mag each gallon, Z7 from Flying Skull which acts as an enzyme so the fertilizer can be better absorbed and, Floralicious by General hydroponics- but it's hard to give exact measurements as they vary from watering to watering. As the buds move further along, I add a bud booster but the manufacturer various from crop to crop. I'm currently, or about to, use something from Advanced Nutrients but I can't remember the name right now. I used it last crop with good success. I'll edit the name in later when I'm in the basement to check. (Overdrive by AN and Hydroplex by Botanicare)
As I'm coming into week 5 on monday, I'll only be using bloom fertilizer thru the end of week 7, then very little of anything the last 2 weeks. Weeks 6 and 7 I really up my ppm as this strain I'm doing loves it- maybe up to 1300-1400 ppm but generally I'm never above 1200 ppm and usually around 1100 ppm.
I'm on the 500 scale, so our numbers don't transfer equally.
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AKGrowAreo
Well-Known Member
Cool man. Sounds like thats working great for you!
420texan710
Member
I'm using humboldt grow micro bloom and botanicare cal/mag with an piranha, tarantula, voodoo juice and bud candy.
As a water treatment operator id like you to explain that statement as ive never heard of anything like that and we test ph and ec 100x times a day over the whole process.
Ideally you want your ph probe suspended in a proper 7.0 calibration fluid and you should verify calibration at least once a month if your running into any kind of issues.
On the BlueLab website, it states NEVER let the pH meter sit in plain water........I just went back to it tried to find the spot with their explanation as to why but couldn't. I have emailed them for their reasoning and when they respond, I'll post it.......
But from reasoning, it may have to do with some water sources pH is way out of whack, very high or very low. I remember it saying just store it in the normal solution use are testing, i.e. fertilized water, etc.
I'll let you know.......
But from reasoning, it may have to do with some water sources pH is way out of whack, very high or very low. I remember it saying just store it in the normal solution use are testing, i.e. fertilized water, etc.
I'll let you know.......
sanjuan
Well-Known Member
The reason is osmosis. A pH sensor probe has a semi-permeable bulb filled with . . . I forget but that's the source of my problems. Being fed up with Hanna, I bought a pair of Hach sensors which were advertised as dry storable. Total BS--they were received dried out. (I got my money back with no problem from Forestry Supply.)
Edit: I see I'm going off topic. On topic, Hanna ppm has good resolution but one of my combo meters went electronically bad on the EC side.
Edit: I see I'm going off topic. On topic, Hanna ppm has good resolution but one of my combo meters went electronically bad on the EC side.
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