The far red thread

Airwalker16

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
I need a simple, reliable way to time these. I'll be building 3-36" square tubes like growmau5 flower Initiator just longer but still 3 leds. Exactly the same build just spaced farther.
He uses a 12v cell charger to run it. If I wired these 3 together, what kind of cell charger would I be needing?

And this relay whatnot sounds great, but mine will be a separate fixture from my cob light, so how could I time them and have it be reliable? I dont see how it's possible
 
BOBBY_G

BOBBY_G

Well-Known Member
3 leds is MAX 7.75V depending on the current

and the 'drivers' gromau5 uses eats 3V

so you need 10.75 V at most, most cell chargers are 5V but there are plenty of old 12V wallwarts around my house at least
 
Fastslappy

Fastslappy

Well-Known Member
welight said:
I know I can build it, question is does it really make sense, your paying for about 550mm of bare unused mcpcb?
Cheers
Mark
Click to expand...
that's what i was thinking the mcpcb would cost more per led at those lengths & Idon't need to pay for extra mcpcb with a led setback inches at the ends (your heatsink would do that )( simple bar of AL will work )
I was thinking a mc bar then wire then a bar &/or the short bars can be placed about anywhere to get coverage
isn't the idea to just get enuuf red onto the plant to signal shut down ,
it's not like every bud/leaf on the plant has to be hit with far red to shut off the plant into sleep
 
G

grouch

Well-Known Member
Airwalker16 said:
I need a simple, reliable way to time these. I'll be building 3-36" square tubes like growmau5 flower Initiator just longer but still 3 leds. Exactly the same build just spaced farther.
He uses a 12v cell charger to run it. If I wired these 3 together, what kind of cell charger would I be needing?

And this relay whatnot sounds great, but mine will be a separate fixture from my cob light, so how could I time them and have it be reliable? I dont see how it's possible
Click to expand...
I run my far reds on a small china driver hooked up to a digital timer. Same concept as the cobs just different components and light schedule
 
Airwalker16

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
grouch said:
I run my far reds on a small china driver hooked up to a digital timer. Same concept as the cobs just different components and light schedule
Click to expand...
So you use 2 separate digital timers. ONE for cobs and oNE for far reds? Do you just set the current time exactly the same and push the enter button simultaneously? Then just have the reds come one RIGHT as the cobs turn off? Pretty reliable or do you gotta adjust it a lot?
 
G

grouch

Well-Known Member
Airwalker16 said:
So you use 2 separate digital timers. ONE for cobs and oNE for far reds? Do you just set the current time exactly the same and push the enter button simultaneously? Then just have the reds come one RIGHT as the cobs turn off? Pretty reliable or do you gotta adjust it a lot?
Click to expand...
Two separate timers. I just set it to come on a minute before lights out to make up for the timer drifting throughout the flower cycle. If they get to far apart I adjust them a little.
 
Fastslappy

Fastslappy

Well-Known Member
I got a dual analog that's on a power strip , used in reptile set-up for this exact thing
will handle my 1600 watts & the sunsetters + with dedicated outlets for each timer
It was linked by another member here on the threads weeks ago
 
testiclees

testiclees

Well-Known Member
PurpleBuz said:
4 single 730nm 3w cree 730 nm xpe over a 3 foot bar are plenty over a 5x2.5 area.

two 3 foot bars will handle a 5x5. more than that is a waste (hey its your dollar) multiple chips on a small board make NO sense at all.
think about the coverage/distribution over the area.

You wouldn't put multiple cobs in a single square foot, more like one cob per square foot. well the same coverage\distribution rules apply for 730 nm flower initiators
Click to expand...
PB do these diodes make sense? Im trying to avoid the soldering action.

http://www.ledgroupbuy.com/solderless-hyper-far-red-730nm/
 
welight

welight

Well-Known Member
Fastslappy said:
that's what i was thinking the mcpcb would cost more per led at those lengths & Idon't need to pay for extra mcpcb with a led setback inches at the ends (your heatsink would do that )( simple bar of AL will work )
I was thinking a mc bar then wire then a bar &/or the short bars can be placed about anywhere to get coverage
isn't the idea to just get enuuf red onto the plant to signal shut down ,
it's not like every bud/leaf on the plant has to be hit with far red to shut off the plant into sleep
Click to expand...
we do have a baby brother to this board, 80mm x 20mm

these show XPG2 white but can be made with one only Far Red?
Cheers
Mark
 
testiclees

testiclees

Well-Known Member
Airwalker16 said:
Cutters seems easier to me
Click to expand...
Yes most def agree but PB made point that emitters should be as spread out as the cobs...i think that makes sense.

I think 4 or 5, 1-1.5W diodes along the 50" length would be optimal. I'm not seeing solderless chips that match my hatch
 
P

PurpleBuz

Well-Known Member
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