DIY design build throwdown

sixstring2112

Well-Known Member
well when i see something i like,i like it lol.i never seen your builds till today bro,im still sifting through this led section and theres only so much i can read in a day.im like 2 days from having 20 heatsinks to play with so im gettin real fuckin antsy to start layin out some fixtures.hopefully i got some pics to post in this here thread real soon
 

SSGrower

Well-Known Member
Airwalker, its official your the first subject of my distraction, while I was in the car I thought of this

Stupid Scientist (SSGrower) Idea #1 - just entertain the thought of taking those fans with what I'm assumin are 3w leds in them making for 24w of available power for well your choice uv or far red. Mount them on the underside of the heatsink (realising this will adversely impact your cooling) cover the fan with window screen so no inadvertent amputations occur, capacitive discharge so the IR stay on for 15min after power out or arduino control......Real easy for me to go way down deep in the rabbits hole as you see..
 

SSGrower

Well-Known Member
Those are leds on the fans I bought. And I think people who run them anything below 1400 MA are either rich enough to spend the cash on more cobs or are just efficiency addicted. Mine are run on 2 hlg 240-1750''s and the reflector bars are cxb3070''s at 2100ma. People say overdriven, I say more lumens.
I can appreciate you wanting to drive them hard and have chosen to manage the heat, on point IMO. I'm not necessarily an efficiency freak but I'm driving at 600 or 750ma and could, given the modular concept go as low as 300 or up to 1.5a.
 

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
I can appreciate you wanting to drive them hard and have chosen to manage the heat, on point IMO. I'm not necessarily an efficiency freak but I'm driving at 600 or 750ma and could, given the modular concept go as low as 300 or up to 1.5a.
Drive them as hard as what you can afford. This is all manageable with a "B" version dimmable driver. Why limit yourself to 1500 or even 700 ma? Shit I wish the hlg320c series was out already so I could have ran each bar at 2100 rather than 1750. But my point is, you can always dim them down to whatever you want. But you can't if you stick yourself with an hlg 700,1050,1400.
 

SSGrower

Well-Known Member
Sweet logic, I like it. My space is confined 22in deep 46in wide and 48in tall. By choice (understanding that hydro could be much lower profile) I am in 2.5 gal soil mix, leaving me with only 3ft minus the lighting standoff. Very small scale and controling the heat are challenges.
 

BOBBY_G

Well-Known Member
Drive them as hard as what you can afford. This is all manageable with a "B" version dimmable driver. Why limit yourself to 1500 or even 700 ma? Shit I wish the hlg320c series was out already so I could have ran each bar at 2100 rather than 1750. But my point is, you can always dim them down to whatever you want. But you can't if you stick yourself with an hlg 700,1050,1400.
you can run as high or low as you want with the current HLG-320 series
 

SSGrower

Well-Known Member
Yup, understood. Now working with what I bought when first getting into leds all of what a month ago.
 

SSGrower

Well-Known Member
3 meanwell owa-60u-42
6 various temp mostly ab bin cxa3070
The pretty white box that was purchased from amazon with 2 cxb 3500kab, and 2 more to add to it
 

BOBBY_G

Well-Known Member
it is constant voltage up until you pull full amperage . then it is constant current and drops voltage
 

SSGrower

Well-Known Member
So do you have to run in parallel with these types?
in my quick glance of the spec sheet I would say yes because adj current doesnt start until 4.45amp on the 36v version. On a side note it is a class 1 div 2 classified for hazardous locations (meaning flammable explosive atmosphere) this is an expensive cert to get...
 

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
Parallel just shares the total amperage among however many cobs you add righ like hlg-600h-42. With 7 Cobs it would run em at 600ma each?
 

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
in my quick glance of the spec sheet I would say yes because adj current doesnt start until 4.45amp on the 36v version. On a side note it is a class 1 div 2 classified for hazardous locations (meaning flammable explosive atmosphere) this is an expensive cert to get...
Makes you wonder what made them design a driver to qualify for and get that cert?
 
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