SSGrower
Well-Known Member
So it's a filter to?
SSGrower
Well-Known Member
Careful doorbellay only be 12v, also connector I have says 18 to 12 awg
Didn't read right u are ditching to doorbell wire right?
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SSGrower
Well-Known Member
I thought about a fast blow fuse at 1.7 amp or so. Buddy of mine used one on a stepper motor and arduino in an art proj.
Merkin Donor
Well-Known Member
Us long time industry folks prefer to call it a UVB/UVA HepC Light Wave Prophylactic Membrane Diffusing Shield
or franger for short.
SSGrower
Well-Known Member
I'll do my research but anything you wanna share?
Merkin Donor
Well-Known Member
Sure, growing cannabis is probably one of the most pleasurable and therapeutic activities I've ever partaken in. Oh yeah, getting high and making shit up is fun too.
BOBBY_G
Well-Known Member
nice i have a 5 gal flush toilet, some high flow showerheads, and some 100W incandescents i can trade
BOBBY_G
Well-Known Member
the CL2R 'doorbell' cable I have is rated for 300V....of course i looked....
SSGrower
Well-Known Member
Yeah, you know your talking to the guy the purposely went out and bought a case of 100 watters before they were discontinued, they were actually a really convenient way to keep pump houses from freezing. Heat tape wasn't an option cause of insulation, a heater would blow the circuit if the pump was running at the same time.
SSGrower
Well-Known Member
Didn't really doubt that you would, the post was for benefit of others.
Since this little post started a couple of days ago it really has gone the direction I wanted it to. So, every couple of days I'll try to come in and make a summary post of important issues.
The first one is @Airwalker16 ground short fault spark issue. Have you gotten this resolved? This one honestly scaring me a bit. Is it static buildup from the plastic fans? Don't see why that would be the plastic should be conductive and dispate charge on their own.
Can I convince everyone to think about this and offer input please?
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sixstring2112
Well-Known Member
someone suggested he should plug the fixture into a gfi outlet and see if it trips it.i thought that was a good start,if it trips he has a problem.but i could not leave my shop knowing theres a random spark on my equipment,,it would drive me nutz
SSGrower
Well-Known Member
Thought I smelled a stinking turd. Oh so glad I went directly to sleep after posting.Sure, growing cannabis is probably one of the most pleasurable and therapeutic activities I've ever partaken in. Oh yeah, getting high and making shit up is fun too.
you're evil.
SSGrower
Well-Known Member
Agreed I think this would be the best place for him to start, this will show him if he has a "leak" in his electrical. Something similar was going on with my hot tub. it was continually blowing the gfci, long story short, install was 3/8 galvanized conduit a 120 foot run with 3 no 8 wires (code violation should be at least 3/4 in for local code) from the breaker box (where the gfci was originally a code violation). The wire had bare spots on the insulation where a. it was damaged during install or b. during the numerous lightning strikes and the on off cycling of the tub did the damage. Dunno what the real reason was but it all had to go.
Airwalker16
Well-Known Member
Do I need to plug the power strips into the gfci like I did when it happened? One into the other?
sixstring2112
Well-Known Member
I would just try the light alone first.if that dont trip the gfi then add a power strip.if still good add the other one.I think you said you were using 2 power strips.
SSGrower
Well-Known Member
If you aren't able to wire in a new outlet, this would serve the same purpose
http://m.homedepot.com/p/Defiant-2-ft-In-Line-GFCI-Cord-30338213/203741466
But having one permamently at the wall outlet would be best.
http://m.homedepot.com/p/Defiant-2-ft-In-Line-GFCI-Cord-30338213/203741466
But having one permamently at the wall outlet would be best.
SSGrower
Well-Known Member
Post pictures with details like driver labels, all electronics. Make sure the lights are the only thing on the circuit, separate everything run an extension cord from a separate circuit and do a stepwise elemination. Don't take this one lightly just ask @MasterpieceNutes "Would prob still light, but I value being alive, so I won't try.."
The two power strips though not advisable shouldnt have anything to do with this provided they are in good condition. Do you have access to breaker pannel?
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Airwalker16
Well-Known Member
Ya it works fine it was having 2 strips that did it. OUTLET-STRIP -STRIP-LIGHT CORD.
roym
Member
I first routed 10mm away in the wood and then used a chisel to cut out the squares
Then I still have 8mm of wood left where I will cut a circle for the lens and using the router again to route away 2mm for the lens ring.
Yesterday I made the templates to make this easy so next weekend I can probably finish the wood part of the build
Only now to think of a clean way to power the leds and ground the heatsinks (as in cable management, already know how to power them
)
MasterpieceNutes
Well-Known Member
Design continues to develop. Light #3.
Improvements: modular, 2-4 screws for any piece. Open design, but with good tight wiring (to be done). Plenty of room to add the breakout box (which will hold fan driver and wagos for all the connections), and also room for a dimmer (on order).. EDIT: self tapping aluminum screws for most of the structural, 6mm screws for lighting and ballast.
I'll send pics when done. I think this is the new design though.
Not sure if I should bother with the reflectors I got from Kingbrite.. But they are tapped and ready for them. Light test will determine their usefulness.. Also pending.
This is HLG185c-c1400 with 4 new Cree from Kingbrite on Ali.
Heatsinks and fans sourced from recycler $20. Aluminum bar + $15. Fan and led driver: $90. Chips: $225. Misc: $10. $360ish.
Improvements: modular, 2-4 screws for any piece. Open design, but with good tight wiring (to be done). Plenty of room to add the breakout box (which will hold fan driver and wagos for all the connections), and also room for a dimmer (on order).. EDIT: self tapping aluminum screws for most of the structural, 6mm screws for lighting and ballast.
I'll send pics when done. I think this is the new design though.
Not sure if I should bother with the reflectors I got from Kingbrite.. But they are tapped and ready for them. Light test will determine their usefulness.. Also pending.
This is HLG185c-c1400 with 4 new Cree from Kingbrite on Ali.
Heatsinks and fans sourced from recycler $20. Aluminum bar + $15. Fan and led driver: $90. Chips: $225. Misc: $10. $360ish.
Attachments
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