HEATSINK USA CHARGING MORE FOR SHIPPING THEN ACTUAL HEATSINK VALUE?

PurpleBuz

Well-Known Member
They have no plans to sell pin sinks at this time. I think this is on the radar for the future, but a suitable and cost-effective (aluminum/copper forging) supplier would have to be found and so far that is not a viable option in our area. I do not want to say too much here that would be interpreted as advertising, I have no wish to violate forum rules.
although its a nice feature pin heatsinks do not require aluminum/copper forging. if pin heatsinks are not in your plans that's fine, but don't use aluminum\copper forging as an excuse.

I believe the consensus is that the net price of straight extruded aluminum heatsinks are too high, and that you ought to look at ways to optimize net cost if you want to take advantage of the growing diy led market.

Might also want to look at anodizing for increased performance.
 

BOBBY_G

Well-Known Member

JorgeGonzales

Well-Known Member
@Growmau5 http://www.mechatronix-asia.com/Why_Pin_Fin_LED_coolers_perform_better_under_tilted_position.html

Another perspective from a company who manufactures both (and makes your kit heatsinks I believe).

Two heatsinks, one pin, one extruded, same weight. Extruded cools slightly better, is equally modular, and a lot cheaper from CDI. Pin has the advantage once it's tilted, which I suspect more people will be trying with your clever mounts.

I'd guess horizontal airflow would benefit pins a little more, and the base design sure makes them easier to match with a 3590.

But anybody using smaller cobs like a 3070 or Vero 29 has some decent choices that aren't pin, and are pre-drilled for direct mounting or the ubiquitous Ideal Zhaga book 3 holders, and will do a fine job if an appropriate size is chosen.
 

sixstring2112

Well-Known Member
Q for those who have used pin fins: are they flat or do they require lapping?
the 20 i got from @robincnn are very flat.i checked every one with a few being checked twice with a diff straight edge.there were maybe 2 dif spots were i had a small burr from where it was drilled and tapped that i knocked off with a scraper.but for having 20 hs x 5 holes each,so like 125 holes thats not bad imo
 

JorgeGonzales

Well-Known Member
In my experience the pin fins that I have tested have about half the weight of equivalent extruded heatsinks. Obviously this varies a lot with what heatsinks your working with. so ymmv
I was being slightly tongue in cheek calling radial heatsinks extruded, but it's also accurate. You are correct with regards to heatsinkusa style sinks, but I still love the look of a long aluminum bar. They are sexy.

But I don't think there is any point to worrying about pin vs radial if it means postponing a build or not building at all because you want a predrilled pin heatsink and nothing else will do. That's all.
 

PurpleBuz

Well-Known Member
I was being slightly tongue in cheek calling radial heatsinks extruded, but it's also accurate. You are correct with regards to heatsinkusa style sinks, but I still love the look of a long aluminum bar. They are sexy.

But I don't think there is any point to worrying about pin vs radial if it means postponing a build or not building at all because you want a predrilled pin heatsink and nothing else will do. That's all.
slightly tongue in cheek ? I quoted your EXACT WORDS, lets move the goalpost a little ....

radial extruded does better than a straight extruded bar in a direct active cooling setup, but there is no way they can beat a pin fin.

and oh btw if you learn how to tap and drill you'll be surprised at how easy it is and laugh at yourself.
 

JorgeGonzales

Well-Known Member
slightly tongue in cheek ? I quoted your EXACT WORDS, lets move the goalpost a little ....

radial extruded does better than a straight extruded bar in a direct active cooling setup, but there is no way they can beat a pin fin.

and oh btw if you learn how to tap and drill you'll be surprised at how easy it is and laugh at yourself.
What the fuck? I have a drill press and quite a few tap sizes. I was talking about the op who was worried about drilling holes with a hand drill. He should be mildly worried if he is doubting his abilities, and drilling and tapping dozens of holes in quarter inch aluminum is not particularly fun for me either. I was glad not to do it in my build.

And I wasn't moving the goal post, I was giving you the benefit of the doubt that you were talking about bar heatsinks, not radial. Because you would be completely wrong otherwise, and apparently are completely wrong. I literally linked a pdf from the manufacturer comparing the Cutter pin heatsink to a radial heatsink of the exact same weight. Maybe you should read it.
 

JorgeGonzales

Well-Known Member
Also, there is probably no reason to tap holes in aluminum. With proper sized holes I've found any old steel metric screw will work without any problems, or thread forming (not cutting) screws if you have them.

On the other hand, truly crooked holes from a hand drill could cause uneven pressure on the cob, which might be the best way to kill one if interferes with the TIM making good contact.
 

PurpleBuz

Well-Known Member
Also, there is probably no reason to tap holes in aluminum. With proper sized holes I've found any old steel metric screw will work without any problems, or thread forming (not cutting) screws if you have them.
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On the other hand, truly crooked holes from a hand drill could cause uneven pressure on the cob, which might be the best way to kill one if interferes with the TIM making good contact.
I hand drill and hand tap all of them none are crooked. the only thing I miss from a drill press is precise depth control. these holes are tiny, 3mm x 6mm for goodness sakes.

your right about using any old screw for aluminum, easy peasy as long as you don't mind'm loose and sloppy.
 

PurpleBuz

Well-Known Member
And I wasn't moving the goal post, I was giving you the benefit of the doubt that you were talking about bar heatsinks, not radial. Because you would be completely wrong otherwise, and apparently are completely wrong. I literally linked a pdf from the manufacturer comparing the Cutter pin heatsink to a radial heatsink of the exact same weight. Maybe you should read it.
yes you are moving the goalpost. most radial heatsinks in use are plain jane extruded. Most rely on direct active cooling to acheive performance that's comparable to a staggered sparse pin fin. Not much different than flat thin fin heatsinks.
 

JorgeGonzales

Well-Known Member
yes you are moving the goalpost. most radial heatsinks in use are plain jane extruded. Most rely on direct active cooling to acheive performance that's comparable to a staggered sparse pin fin. Not much different than flat thin fin heatsinks.
Not to prolong argument, but it was clear from the pdf comparison I linked from Mechatronix which radials I was talking about. Anodized, pre-drilled, well designed, and passive, just like the pin counterparts I was comparing to.

I'm not sure where you got the impression that most radial heatsinks are being used with fans. I've used them for years with power transistors, mosfets, voltage regulators, all passive. Maybe you should inform Cree that they are doing it wrong as well:

image.jpg

If you read Cree's thermal management docs, or Bridgelux, they both talk about how well radial designs perform passively vs flat extrusions. They are both terrific reads, actually.

And as I wrote above, I think pins are well suited for larger cobs like 3590, and cool better mounted at an angle, but they aren't the only valid choice for a modular approach to building. I'm not picking a side, there are no teams or goalposts. Just facts, backed up by data from both heatsink and cob manufactuers, and my own personal measurements which seem to line up pretty well with their numbers.
 

PurpleBuz

Well-Known Member
I'm not sure where you got the impression that most radial heatsinks are being used with fans.
I did not say that. I said to achieve the same level of performance. I was assuming weight would be the same.

a passive top end radial heatsink will weigh more than an equivalent top end passive pin heatsink. primary reason is the amount of metal to make a long\tall fin is higher than with a pin. The pins also have better airflow than a radial.
I have combed through hundreds of mfg heatsinks data to validate this.

Don't get me wrong, the mechatronic radials are impressive heatsinks.
 

insert username

Well-Known Member
I did not say that. I said to achieve the same level of performance. I was assuming weight would be the same.

a passive top end radial heatsink will weigh more than an equivalent top end passive pin heatsink. primary reason is the amount of metal to make a long\tall fin is higher than with a pin. The pins also have better airflow than a radial.
I have combed through hundreds of mfg heatsinks data to validate this.

Don't get me wrong, the mechatronic radials are impressive heatsinks.
Do ya thnk a 500mm long x125mm wide and 35mm high heat sink from tme would be good for 2cxb3590 36v I could use a fan to active cool. Dimensions in inches roughly 20x4.8x1.4 sorta close to the 5.886 profile heat sink USA Just Inch or so thinner width
 
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