if anybody is looking for a panel that works with Northern Grow Lights 120mm pin heatsinks, I uploaded my "powered by NGL" panel up on grab cad.
https://grabcad.com/library/11-x-120mm-pin-heatsink-panel-1
Same here!I don't need one of these. But am curious how much something like this would cost to make.
The metal was only 0.040" 6062 aluminum from a clearance sale at my local metal shop. But to be safe say $40 for the metal.I don't need one of these. But am curious how much something like this would cost to make.
The metal was only 0.040" 6062 aluminum from a clearance sale at my local metal shop. But to be safe say $40 for the metal.
The file took me about 1.5 hrs to design, but thats done and anyone who wants it has it.
16 mins on the water jet to cut the mounting and decorative cover panel. so thats $48 my cost for waterjet fees. If i was going to try to pump them out to sell them. $88 would be my cost per unit.
Simplicity and the fact that DC current degrades over distance rapidly. My drivers don't add much heat at all, so there really isn't a good reason to run them remotely.Just out of curiosity, why is everyone building their drivers into their fixtures as opposed to remotely?
Now that everyone is going passive its even simpler to mount your drivers outside your grow space. I grew for a few years with 600s and always had the ballasts sitting outside of the grow room. Just curious why with CoB based lights eschew that setup in favor of our current "everything goes in the box/frame" approach.
I grow with outside cool fresh air at night. I am finding that the replacement air flow rate needed for the plants health (respiration, photosynthesis and disease control) more than handles the heat produced by my DIY leds.Just out of curiosity, why is everyone building their drivers into their fixtures as opposed to remotely?
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1.5A seems a lot. Will need air extraction. Dimmable driver is the best way to goollow up, would/could you run CXB3590 @ 1.5A on a 120mm passively, or would some added movement/extraction be warranted?
Agreed, 50W should be sufficient, but as you were saying about that point source perhaps I might dial the COBs back in output and spread that over that 1sqft foot print. Thanks for the discussion and what you bring to the community!120mm will work actively cooled. Or if you can have the pins outside the tent.
it is a reflective tiny 1x1 space. 100W is waste. Anything over 50 W seems overkill
not reallySimplicity and the fact that DC current degrades over distance rapidly. My drivers don't add much heat at all, so there really isn't a good reason to run them remotely.
Thank you, I guess it doesn't degrade as fast as I thought lolnot really
View attachment 3741204
and if that 0.04% loss is too much you can spend an insignificant amount of money to oversize the wires to common 12GA
View attachment 3741216
(that calculator is here BTW)
Just out of curiosity, why is everyone building their drivers into their fixtures as opposed to remotely?
Now that everyone is going passive its even simpler to mount your drivers outside your grow space. I grew for a few years with 600s and always had the ballasts sitting outside of the grow room. Just curious why with CoB based lights eschew that setup in favor of our current "everything goes in the box/frame" approach.