DIY Passive cooling with PIN Heatsinks SST120 and SST140

BOBBY_G

BOBBY_G

Well-Known Member
pop22 said:
I've wondered the same thing. that's been the hold up in finishing my first light, what to do with the drivers. I'm limited as to tools and workspace, but I want everything to look as good as I can make it. Yea, its just a light and the industrial look is quite functional, but that Growmau5 guy makes me want to hide mine from view.............lol!

Thinking one of those aluminum tool cases to house the drivers and meters, dimmers, etc.
Click to expand...
more open the better. flat on a board with some air circ is ideal. raise em up of fthe wood to get some air behind him
 
robincnn

robincnn

Well-Known Member
I like Ideal Holder. Higher voltage so can handle up to 4 cobs in series.
Also Ideal has chip lock so i find it easier to work with.
BJB does look clean and the holder acts as a mini reflector.
  • Ideal 50-2204CT (250V,4A) holder is compatible with 50-2100AN Reflector adapter and LEDiL Reflector F13838_ANGELINA-XW
  • BJB 47.319.2033.50 (60V) holder is compatible with LEDiL Reflector F13839_ANGELINA-XW
Edit: For 1812 Efficiency and drive current calculations
http://ce.citizen.co.jp/lighting_led/en/products2/notice_Simulator_ver5.html
 
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salmonetin

salmonetin

Well-Known Member
robincnn said:
CLU048 1812 on 105mm and 120mm heatsinks
3500k 80 and 90 CRI
Ideal and BJB holder

View attachment 3743915
Click to expand...
...more posible moves for a single heatsink type... we can use more "u pieces" with more single heatsinks... for grow lamps with more than one heatsink too...

...with a simple U PIECE MECHANIZED... we can move the light(s) on all posible directions...

...ok for adapt diferents reflectors or lenses way...in a single case with reflectors on it...
...posible without upiece too... but with some restrictions on move in a cased style lamp...

...yeah move on the axis... notice they dont have a limit...(bad for wires) but with easy solution... a simple screw on the base...can do the job on put the limits...(no more

...its for give ideas.... not for publicity ...im not sell nothing...
...always taking ideas from comercial side....you know me a bit...:fire:

:peace:

Saludos
 
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Airwalker16

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
robincnn said:
that square a layout of 3070 on top of a 3590. Just showing 35mm holes get too close to LES of 3590. This is why I have separate heatsinks for 35mm and 3590.
Don't let it give you a headache.:roll:
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So you just drew a square right on that pic? Cause inside the square looks like it's from a different cob. Especially the top left corner... the soldering pad is a triangle but looks like it should be a sq or something. I get it now. Lol so does that cob still work with holes?
 
robincnn

robincnn

Well-Known Member
I did not draw anything. I will try again
3590 is siting on a Heatsink. I placed a transparent sheet that has a cut out for 3070 and 2 black holes that are 35mm apart.
Those black circles around LES are black circles that are 35mm apart , 35mm used for 3070 and clu048
Those black circles are too close to LES of 3590. This is why i don't like having pre tapped heatsinks for both 3070 and 3590
 
robincnn

robincnn

Well-Known Member
coreywebster said:
@robincnn what is the recommended pin heat sink to run the clu058 @1.4mA, I believe it to be 35heat watts.
I have just seen your prices for the clu058s, nice price!
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None of the heatsinks I have are pre drilled for CLU058. BJB for CLU058 need 55mm spacing. 120 and 140mm heatsinks have 54mm for Cree 3590 Bender writh.
@1.4 amps on clu058 140mm would be good. 120 will work fine too.
I have CLU048 @1.4 amps on 120mm . With the air circulation in tent the Heatsink was around 55C.
Will get some heatsinks predrilled for CLU058 in 2-3 weeks.
 
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