DIY Passive cooling with PIN Heatsinks SST120 and SST140
- Thread starter robincnn
- Start date
robincnn
Well-Known Member
I Can lookup shipping Quote for anywhere. Just replied to your email.
I don't need one of these. But am curious how much something like this would cost to make.
BM9AGS
Well-Known Member
Same here!
Growmau5
Well-Known Member
The metal was only 0.040" 6062 aluminum from a clearance sale at my local metal shop. But to be safe say $40 for the metal.
The file took me about 1.5 hrs to design, but thats done and anyone who wants it has it.
16 mins on the water jet to cut the mounting and decorative cover panel. so thats $48 my cost for waterjet fees. If i was going to try to pump them out to sell them. $88 would be my cost per unit.
nogod_
Well-Known Member
Just out of curiosity, why is everyone building their drivers into their fixtures as opposed to remotely?
Now that everyone is going passive its even simpler to mount your drivers outside your grow space. I grew for a few years with 600s and always had the ballasts sitting outside of the grow room. Just curious why with CoB based lights eschew that setup in favor of our current "everything goes in the box/frame" approach.
Now that everyone is going passive its even simpler to mount your drivers outside your grow space. I grew for a few years with 600s and always had the ballasts sitting outside of the grow room. Just curious why with CoB based lights eschew that setup in favor of our current "everything goes in the box/frame" approach.
ttystikk
Well-Known Member
Simplicity and the fact that DC current degrades over distance rapidly. My drivers don't add much heat at all, so there really isn't a good reason to run them remotely.
I grow with outside cool fresh air at night. I am finding that the replacement air flow rate needed for the plants health (respiration, photosynthesis and disease control) more than handles the heat produced by my DIY leds.
For my setup in my area remote drivers are more of pain the ass with all the extra DC wiring needed.
CannaBruh
Well-Known Member
In tight spaces where we're still fighting with adequate heat extraction it does make sense to do remote drivers. Short runs of a few feet are not too lossy even with DC. Hell I run waaaaaaaay longer runs of DC at a much higher and lower voltage in recording studios with no issues to worry about line voltage to some COBs at a few feet.
For the tight form factor, keeping the drivers in the enclosures keeps cable runs to a minimum and everything nice and tidy.
Another reason was the old ballasts were many pounds, even digital ballasts weigh something. It's not much of a load to add the drivers to the total weight of the light for the added value of keeping everything together.
For the tight form factor, keeping the drivers in the enclosures keeps cable runs to a minimum and everything nice and tidy.
Another reason was the old ballasts were many pounds, even digital ballasts weigh something. It's not much of a load to add the drivers to the total weight of the light for the added value of keeping everything together.
CannaBruh
Well-Known Member
Totally forgot my question;
@robincnn, I see you have a Gorilla mini 1x1' tent. How many 50W COBs have you ran in one of those (or how many would you speculate you could get away with at minimum air exchange rates running passively)
Follow up, would/could you run CXB3590 @ 1.5A on a 120mm passively, or would some added movement/extraction be warranted?
@robincnn, I see you have a Gorilla mini 1x1' tent. How many 50W COBs have you ran in one of those (or how many would you speculate you could get away with at minimum air exchange rates running passively)
Follow up, would/could you run CXB3590 @ 1.5A on a 120mm passively, or would some added movement/extraction be warranted?
robincnn
Well-Known Member
Passive need headroom for convection airflow as it rises up.
Cobs need clearence from canopy as it is point source.
Strips are ideal for mini tent application.
If cob, I would stick with dimmable driver upto 50w
If not dimmable 25-35 watts with no optics
I thought about using 120/140 pin heatsink but it takes too much height. and then needs clearance on top for airflow. Need to go 1 size up if you plan to have a small space margin on top of heatsink.
Cobs need clearence from canopy as it is point source.
Strips are ideal for mini tent application.
If cob, I would stick with dimmable driver upto 50w
If not dimmable 25-35 watts with no optics
1.5A seems a lot. Will need air extraction. Dimmable driver is the best way to go
I thought about using 120/140 pin heatsink but it takes too much height. and then needs clearance on top for airflow. Need to go 1 size up if you plan to have a small space margin on top of heatsink.
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CannaBruh
Well-Known Member
I'm wanting to push 2x 3590s @ 1.5A/ea on 120mm pins, actively extracted through the top 3" port (CFM/temp relationship TBD). ~100W over 1ftsq
Might be pushing it but we'll find out. Canopy will be scrog'd to keep enough distance between COB & canopy to prevent bleaching, I've gotten as close as many inches with HID and prevented bleaching hoping to reproduce that.
Might be pushing it but we'll find out. Canopy will be scrog'd to keep enough distance between COB & canopy to prevent bleaching, I've gotten as close as many inches with HID and prevented bleaching hoping to reproduce that.
CannaBruh
Well-Known Member
Agreed, 50W should be sufficient, but as you were saying about that point source perhaps I might dial the COBs back in output and spread that over that 1sqft foot print. Thanks for the discussion and what you bring to the community!
CannaBruh
Well-Known Member
AC mains because of these losses, but can get away with fairly "long" runs of DC before running into trouble specifically in these instances of remote drivers. Unless you're talking like in different facilities, then you might want to measure your voltages for line losses.
ttystikk
Well-Known Member
Thank you, I guess it doesn't degrade as fast as I thought lol
Still, it's nice to have the module be all one piece.
sixstring2112
Well-Known Member
when i made my bars i found it to be a pain in the ass trying to fit the driver between the heatsinks on a 5 cob bar and not have it out of balance so i just made my wires 5 feet longer and mounted them to the wall right next to where i have the bars hung.pretty simple really and if i needed to put a fan on them to cool em it would be simple.plus it just made more sense to me to mount all 3 drivers next to the dimming box @robincnn made me and also wire all 3 power cords to 1 240v plug.some of us want the heat on the plants also 
pop22
Well-Known Member
I've wondered the same thing. that's been the hold up in finishing my first light, what to do with the drivers. I'm limited as to tools and workspace, but I want everything to look as good as I can make it. Yea, its just a light and the industrial look is quite functional, but that Growmau5 guy makes me want to hide mine from view.............lol!
Thinking one of those aluminum tool cases to house the drivers and meters, dimmers, etc.
Thinking one of those aluminum tool cases to house the drivers and meters, dimmers, etc.