A Cannabinerd's Journey

eastcoastmo

Well-Known Member
Stoked to hear you got your cat back bro, I bet she's happy to be home too!!

I agree with the no flushing too, I just give mine fresh water for the last 2 days to get rid of the build up of nutes, never noticed any differences between flushed and not. Why the hell anyone would flush super soil or organics is freakin crazy!!
 

AlphaPhase

Well-Known Member
I hope I didn't offend anyone, I really didn't intend to anyone following this thread. I just wanted to point everyone in the right direction. I studied horticulture for years and still study.

I mean, I'm almost pulling the trigger of a chlorine doser /sensor that green houses use so I can save some money in the long run. Green houses use bleach, or chlorine (pool shock) to keep their water sanitary. Now that's the kind of witchcraft to learn :)

Since pool shock (calcium hypochlorite) is cheap, I'd rather use that, but the meters are SO expensive. The trick is, to keep the "free chlorine" levels at about 0.5-2.0ppm - that's the hard part because it kills stuff, then turns into another form of chlorine that's not usable. Been studying this for a while and want to pull the trigger on it soon to make things easier. Hydroguard is expensive af!

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AlphaPhase

Well-Known Member
Stoked to hear you got your cat back bro, I bet she's happy to be home too!!

I agree with the no flushing too, I just give mine fresh water for the last 2 days to get rid of the build up of nutes, never noticed any differences between flushed and not. Why the hell anyone would flush super soil or organics is freakin crazy!!
Thanks brother! So happy she's back :D and for sure! If there's built up nutes, adding water does the trick. But if I can recommend something, the last 4 weeks, use 3/4 or 1/2 strength of the nutes you usually would feed, and I bet you can feed right til the end :) and even get a bit of yellowing :D
 

eastcoastmo

Well-Known Member
Thanks brother! So happy she's back :D and for sure! If there's built up nutes, adding water does the trick. But if I can recommend something, the last 4 weeks, use 3/4 or 1/2 strength of the nutes you usually would feed, and I bet you can feed right til the end :) and even get a bit of yellowing :D
This was something I learnt last grow actually mate, I backed right off on the nutes and they did start to yellow, some of the best weed too :)
 

oldman60

Well-Known Member
I never flushed my plants when I feed I bring the nutes up to where the very tips of the leaves
turn yellow then back the nutes down by 10% and feed right until 5 days before chop (non-hydro)
just to let the plant use any excess moisture up.

:peace:
 

Vnsmkr

Well-Known Member
Dont know why I just thought of this now as not related, except for the feeding part. When I was learning organics I used 2 whole leaf fillets from a large aloe plant in a tiny spray bottle, it was like slick water coming out. The plants melted :). This is the one time where the plants did not pray after an aloe foliar
 

adower

Well-Known Member
I don't flush either. Although the last couple weeks of flower I just run low nutes. If anything, the cure is pretty much what makes or breaks the final product if you actually make it through flower.

I've used bleach at 1mg per gallon in my res for 5 or 6 years now. Never had an issue with root rot or harmful effects on plants.
 

AlphaPhase

Well-Known Member
Dont know why I just thought of this now as not related, except for the feeding part. When I was learning organics I used 2 whole leaf fillets from a large aloe plant in a tiny spray bottle, it was like slick water coming out. The plants melted :). This is the one time where the plants did not pray after an aloe foliar
Lol! That's crazy, I've never really foliar fed, at least in a long time, I think way back like 10 years ago I did but I can't remember what I used. They're is this foliar feed nite from the company that makes the v+b, I think it's called shine or push or something, it has concentrated silica and some other stuff I guess it's supposed to help with nutes intake and cell division. It's cheap enough I might give it a try for shits and giggles on one run to see if it makes a difference. I just like keeping it easy I guess but might be worth a shot
 

AlphaPhase

Well-Known Member
I don't flush either. Although the last couple weeks of flower I just run low nutes. If anything, the cure is pretty much what makes or breaks the final product if you actually make it through flower.

I've used bleach at 1mg per gallon in my res for 5 or 6 years now. Never had an issue with root rot or harmful effects on plants.
Same here bro, I usually chop with 500ppm or so, sometimes less or more depending how they look. That's good to know about the bleach, I mean it so damn cheap I have to try it since it also seems really easy too. Did you use clorox?
 

adower

Well-Known Member
Lol! That's crazy, I've never really foliar fed, at least in a long time, I think way back like 10 years ago I did but I can't remember what I used. They're is this foliar feed nite from the company that makes the v+b, I think it's called shine or push or something, it has concentrated silica and some other stuff I guess it's supposed to help with nutes intake and cell division. It's cheap enough I might give it a try for shits and giggles on one run to see if it makes a difference. I just like keeping it easy I guess but might be worth a shot
I think all that booster stuff is not needed. I just use the base and my stuff comes out killer. I resort to the KISS method as much as possible.
 

ThaMagnificent

Well-Known Member
I'm sure that the hard water formula has less cal mag than the soft water formula.
Now im confused...


RO/SOFT is great for all hydroponic applications such as rock wool and coco. It's specially formulated for soft water (under 200PPMS or .1-.3 EC).

TAP/HARD is great for all hydroponic applications such as rock wool and grow stones. Being a more acidic formula, specifically for neutralizing alkaline water supply, (175+PPMS or .3-.7 EC).
 
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