Light ???
- Thread starter RM3
- Start date
RM3
Well-Known Member
IMO it's more like it alters it a tad
BobCajun
Well-Known Member
I didn't look back very far in this thread but I noticed talk of kitty litter. You have be careful because most clay litter is sodium bentonite. I forget what the good kind is, probably calcium or potassium bentonite. There's potassium, sodium, calcium and aluminum bentonites. What happens is that when mixed with soil or medium and nutes added, it reacts and releases its sodium. I totally ruined a whole crop with it. I figured, hey, this is clay, clay is good for soil, Ill just mix this in. Plants burned to hell and stunted. Completely worthless. No potency at all either. Horrendous stuff. Leave it to the kitties, unless you know it's not sodium bentonite, which it usually is.
RM3
Well-Known Member
Been usin it for years with zero issues, know lots of growers usin it
Chunky Stool
Well-Known Member
Calcined clay has the texture of ground up clay bricks. It does NOT clump.
On the bright side, bentonite kitty litter makes great nozzles for homemade rockets! I was into homemade pyrotechnics back in the early 90s. Now it's taboo, thanks to asshole terrorists.
MichiganMedGrower
Well-Known Member
you really know some chemistry Chunky. The fun kind too!!!
BobCajun
Well-Known Member
Oh, calcined. What I used wasn't calcined. It turned into clay when moistened. That's the kind I mean. When baked it would probably be like pottery and unreactive. I still may have saved somebody out there from poisoning their plants with uncalcined sodium bentonite clay.
BobCajun
Well-Known Member
Must be either baked or another form of bentonite. Or conceivably I did something else that killed the plants. Pretty sure it was the kitty litter though.
Actually I just found a page that said American cat litter is usually montmorillonite, about which wikipedia says "Chemically, it is hydrated sodium calcium aluminium magnesium silicate hydroxide (Na,Ca)0.33(Al,Mg)2(Si4O10)(OH)2·nH2O. Potassium, iron, and other cations are common substitutes, and the exact ratio of cations varies with source." What I had really was sodium bentonite. It said on the package or I looked it up or something.
Now I looked up bentonite on wiki and it said;
"Bentonite is an absorbent aluminium phyllosilicate clay consisting mostly of montmorillonite. It was named by Wilbur C. Knight in 1898 after the Cretaceous Benton Shale near Rock River, Wyoming.[1][2]
The different types of bentonite are each named after the respective dominant element, such as potassium (K), sodium (Na), calcium (Ca), and aluminium (Al). Experts debate a number of nomenclatorial problems with the classification of bentonite clays. Bentonite usually forms from weathering of volcanic ash, most often in the presence of water. However, the term bentonite, as well as a similar clay called tonstein, has been used to describe clay beds of uncertain origin. For industrial purposes, two main classes of bentonite exist: sodium and calcium bentonite. In stratigraphy and tephrochronology, completely devitrified (weathered volcanic glass) ash-fall beds are commonly referred to as K-bentonites when the dominant clay species is illite. Other common clay species that are sometimes dominant are montmorillonite and kaolinite. Kaolinite-dominated clays are commonly referred to as tonsteins and are typically associated with coal."
I don't know. I just know I personally won't be using kitty litter in a medium.
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Chunky Stool
Well-Known Member
Meh, I'm an amatuer. I used the first edition of a book called "Introductory Practical Pyrotechnics" by Tom Perigrin.
MichiganMedGrower
Well-Known Member
At least you didn't say the Anarchy Gude Book.
MichiganMedGrower
Well-Known Member
We had a creative "chemist" in high school that made a pipe bomb from the cleaning closet supplies and blew a hole in our school.
He did it to an empty classroom at least. While we were taking our senior exams.
He did it to an empty classroom at least. While we were taking our senior exams.
whitebb2727
Well-Known Member
My thought on it is it can be anything from a plant problem, genetics, temps, certain amendments can all do it.
I generally don't worry about it unless the plant is sickly looking. I'm seeing it more and more in newer crosses and strains.
testiclees
Well-Known Member
Thanks.
Ya i agree it's extremely hard to pinpoint and you cant really say for sure that it is a sign of an improvement oppty.
testiclees
Well-Known Member
LOL im so fucking old
when i was in highschool (religious school) an upperclass men stuffed one of the bathroom drain pipes with a super reactive sodium compound. It blasted the fuck out of the place just as dude who had used sink walked out the door
whitebb2727
Well-Known Member
I grow by several different methods and for my personal stash it is t5 from start to finish. Mixed spectrum including UV is the way to go.
This is a 18+ inch cola. Yea I know they can be bigger. Its an auto. My point being it was rock hard and the lowers were to.
I think it possible with 1000 watts of t5 and filled the room with many single cola plants. Sog style and I could give hid a run for its money.
This is a 18+ inch cola. Yea I know they can be bigger. Its an auto. My point being it was rock hard and the lowers were to.
I think it possible with 1000 watts of t5 and filled the room with many single cola plants. Sog style and I could give hid a run for its money.
MichiganMedGrower
Well-Known Member
Very very nice. But T-5 is only one way to go. They all work if they are radiating PAR.
Both you and RM3 are running enough watts to get the results. T-5 is close to HPS in efficiency so 1000 watts is 1000 watts. I wish my computer didn't get too old before I transferred files because I had nasa and university links to show that with primarily blue or primarily red light would have the same results with the same watts.
I wish we could pass information and learn rather than make blanket statements and argue about them.
I want to know if my knowledge needs improving. But I hate reading 30 pages of arguing just to find an experienced knowledgeable answer.
All factors of our grow are important in balance to make the happiest plants.
Both you and RM3 are running enough watts to get the results. T-5 is close to HPS in efficiency so 1000 watts is 1000 watts. I wish my computer didn't get too old before I transferred files because I had nasa and university links to show that with primarily blue or primarily red light would have the same results with the same watts.
I wish we could pass information and learn rather than make blanket statements and argue about them.
I want to know if my knowledge needs improving. But I hate reading 30 pages of arguing just to find an experienced knowledgeable answer.
All factors of our grow are important in balance to make the happiest plants.
MichiganMedGrower
Well-Known Member
And the pipe bomb went off in 1986. I'm only just getting old. Too bad I am still immature.
whitebb2727
Well-Known Member
432 watts. I have a grow going now and when the plants are taller, I'm going vertical and will have over 700 watts in a 2x4 cab.
As I have stated, I prefer mixed spectrum bud over single spectrum.
I also prefer organic. Those are my tastes. Its what I like.
I'm not making a blanket statement. I'm making a personal statement.
In my opinion and observations mixed spectrum is better.
The whole growing the same amount under blue or red, I don't really believe that.
Through a number of grows using all blue or all red led to different outcomes. Generally growing under all blue will give a better product with smaller yields.
Does this hold true for every strain out there? No.
It progressed over time. All blue, all red, 50/50, then to horticulture bulbs. I run pure par and 10,000k+uva.
MichiganMedGrower
Well-Known Member
Well said.
What attributes are you finding so different with the light. Organic or not is another discussion I think.
All the studies seem to end up recommending 3 to 1 red to blue. Or it may apply to HPS and MH.
What attributes are you finding so different with the light. Organic or not is another discussion I think.
All the studies seem to end up recommending 3 to 1 red to blue. Or it may apply to HPS and MH.
whitebb2727
Well-Known Member
For just a red blue mix I like a 50/50 all the way through.
I get more resin and tricomes with blue and UV.
They all around seem to grow and respond better the more spectrum I add.
I have noticed with blue and UV greatly reduces and can even treat pm.
Lists of little things I've noticed with a mixed spectrum.