Curing: burping jars

kenobi

Well-Known Member
So I have a quick question. I'm curing my crop in jars with boveda packets (49%). Will this work? Also, if RH is 45-55 should I still burp the jars?
 

HydroRed

Well-Known Member
I don't use Bovida packs yet so I have no advice to offer regarding that. Personally though, I'd still burp em. The first few times you do it, your releasing small portions of chlorophyll (veggie greeny smells) from the jar until the minute traces of moisture from within the buds can permiate the dried bud material releasing the good smells and lining you up for a proper cure in the jars.
 

Foothills

Well-Known Member
I don't use Bovida packs yet so I have no advice to offer regarding that. Personally though, I'd still burp em. The first few times you do it, your releasing small portions of chlorophyll (veggie greeny smells) from the jar until the minute traces of moisture from within the buds can permiate the dried bud material releasing the good smells and lining you up for a proper cure in the jars.
That was pretty damn good !! ^^^^ lol
 

kenobi

Well-Known Member
So long story short, 49% is no good??? I've seen online that's 45-55 is the best for curing. Idk. This Is my first time using thsee packets and to be honest I figured it would make my curing process easier. I've never used packets or even measured the RH. I would just look for that "sticky" look buds get when theyre in the cure zone.then just eyeball it from there. So basically what I am asking is; can I cure with 49% boveda packets?
 

kenobi

Well-Known Member
It won't hurt anything at this point. Maybe not ideal, but not horrible. :)
Thanks, I'm also drying in one of those pots with the lid clamps on. Idk if that helps... I'm thinking of doing a manual cure for about 5 days then dropping the 49s... I'd be really upset if I end up with hay weed lol. Let's see what happens
 

Olive Drab Green

Well-Known Member
Thanks, I'm also drying in one of those pots with the lid clamps on. Idk if that helps... I'm thinking of doing a manual cure for about 5 days then dropping the 49s... I'd be really upset if I end up with hay weed lol. Let's see what happens
62s are ideal. Some say 54s.
 

Douglas.Curtis

Well-Known Member
Thanks, I'm also drying in one of those pots with the lid clamps on. Idk if that helps... I'm thinking of doing a manual cure for about 5 days then dropping the 49s... I'd be really upset if I end up with hay weed lol. Let's see what happens
Remember, the packs are designed to 'maintain' a certain moisture level, not reach that level. Always do your best to properly dry the cannabis first. You'll get the best mileage out of your packs.

I generally hang dry my branches in a dark place with around 55% humidity and a slow movement of clean air. the goal is to evenly dry the cannabis, without reaching a 'crispy' state on the outside at any time. Slightly dry is ok, but crispy means the curing will halt for that portion of the flower.

Once it's dry, again I dry until you can barely hear/feel a crack when I break the flower off the stem. Pop them in jars with a hygrometer at about 72F and check it 12hrs later. Over 55%, burp that baby, way higher than 55%, you might want to pull it back out of the jar for a while, go for a slightly harder 'crack' next time, when you pull/clip the flowers from the stem.

I can pull out and open a tiny jar, with only 1 gram of my stuff in it, and in minutes your local dispensary smells are gone, all you can smell is my cannabis. :) It does that when first dry, it just smells a lot more complex and delicious after a month or longer cure. :)

Douglas
 

Olive Drab Green

Well-Known Member
Remember, the packs are designed to 'maintain' a certain moisture level, not reach that level. Always do your best to properly dry the cannabis first. You'll get the best mileage out of your packs.

I generally hang dry my branches in a dark place with around 55% humidity and a slow movement of clean air. the goal is to evenly dry the cannabis, without reaching a 'crispy' state on the outside at any time. Slightly dry is ok, but crispy means the curing will halt for that portion of the flower.

Once it's dry, again I dry until you can barely hear/feel a crack when I break the flower off the stem. Pop them in jars with a hygrometer at about 72F and check it 12hrs later. Over 55%, burp that baby, way higher than 55%, you might want to pull it back out of the jar for a while, go for a slightly harder 'crack' next time, when you pull/clip the flowers from the stem.

I can pull out and open a tiny jar, with only 1 gram of my stuff in it, and in minutes your local dispensary smells are gone, all you can smell is my cannabis. :) It does that when first dry, it just smells a lot more complex and delicious after a month or longer cure. :)

Douglas
The Bovedas actually are a better idea for this. You burp only to relieve the pressure. You don't have to worry about maintaining, the pack does that for you. I use the 62s.
 

Olive Drab Green

Well-Known Member
If it's under or over, it will bring it back to whatever the pack is. You just need to air dry for 3-5 days, then jar them with the Bovedas and burp them every day.
 

Douglas.Curtis

Well-Known Member
Slow dry for higher terpene retention. 7-10 days is better, mold becomes a trickier problem, solvable with steadily moving, slow air.

I'd love to slow dry over 6 months like tobacco, mold is not your friend though.

Douglas
 

vostok

Well-Known Member
Remember, the packs are designed to 'maintain' a certain moisture level, not reach that level. Always do your best to properly dry the cannabis first. You'll get the best mileage out of your packs.

I generally hang dry my branches in a dark place with around 55% humidity and a slow movement of clean air. the goal is to evenly dry the cannabis, without reaching a 'crispy' state on the outside at any time. Slightly dry is ok, but crispy means the curing will halt for that portion of the flower.

Once it's dry, again I dry until you can barely hear/feel a crack when I break the flower off the stem. Pop them in jars with a hygrometer at about 72F and check it 12hrs later. Over 55%, burp that baby, way higher than 55%, you might want to pull it back out of the jar for a while, go for a slightly harder 'crack' next time, when you pull/clip the flowers from the stem.

I can pull out and open a tiny jar, with only 1 gram of my stuff in it, and in minutes your local dispensary smells are gone, all you can smell is my cannabis. :) It does that when first dry, it just smells a lot more complex and delicious after a month or longer cure. :)

Douglas
This :Applications Desiccant

Silica gel is a commonly used desiccant as beads packed in a permeable bag

In many items, moisture encourages the growth of mold and spoilage. Condensation may also damage other items like electronics and may speed the decomposition of chemicals, such as those in vitamin pills. Through the inclusion of silica gel packets, these items can be preserved longer.

Silica gel may also be used to keep the relative humidity (RH) inside a high frequency radio or satellite transmission system waveguide as low as possible (see also Humidity buffering). Excessive moisture buildup within a waveguide can cause arcing inside the waveguide itself, damaging the power amplifier feeding it. Also, the beads of water that form and condense inside the waveguide change the characteristic impedance and frequency, degrading the signal. It is common for a small compressed air system (similar to a small home aquarium pump) to be employed to circulate the air inside the waveguide over a jar of silica gel.

Silica gel is also used to dry the air in industrial compressed air systems. Air from the compressor discharge flows through a bed of silica gel beads. The silica gel adsorbs moisture from the air, preventing damage at the point of use of the compressed air due to condensation or moisture. The same system is used to dry the compressed air on railway locomotives, where condensation and ice in the brake air pipes can lead to brake failure.

Silica gel is sometimes used as a preservation tool to control relative humidity in museum and library exhibitions and storage.

Other applications include diagnostic test strips, inhalation devices, syringes, drug test kits and hospital sanitation kits.

(https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Silica_gel)
 

Olive Drab Green

Well-Known Member
This :Applications Desiccant

Silica gel is a commonly used desiccant as beads packed in a permeable bag

In many items, moisture encourages the growth of mold and spoilage. Condensation may also damage other items like electronics and may speed the decomposition of chemicals, such as those in vitamin pills. Through the inclusion of silica gel packets, these items can be preserved longer.

Silica gel may also be used to keep the relative humidity (RH) inside a high frequency radio or satellite transmission system waveguide as low as possible (see also Humidity buffering). Excessive moisture buildup within a waveguide can cause arcing inside the waveguide itself, damaging the power amplifier feeding it. Also, the beads of water that form and condense inside the waveguide change the characteristic impedance and frequency, degrading the signal. It is common for a small compressed air system (similar to a small home aquarium pump) to be employed to circulate the air inside the waveguide over a jar of silica gel.

Silica gel is also used to dry the air in industrial compressed air systems. Air from the compressor discharge flows through a bed of silica gel beads. The silica gel adsorbs moisture from the air, preventing damage at the point of use of the compressed air due to condensation or moisture. The same system is used to dry the compressed air on railway locomotives, where condensation and ice in the brake air pipes can lead to brake failure.

Silica gel is sometimes used as a preservation tool to control relative humidity in museum and library exhibitions and storage.

Other applications include diagnostic test strips, inhalation devices, syringes, drug test kits and hospital sanitation kits.

(https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Silica_gel)
Boveda isn't silica, though. It emits water vapor when too dry and absorbs anything over 62%.
 

Douglas.Curtis

Well-Known Member
Boveda isn't silica, though. It emits water vapor when too dry and absorbs anything over 62%.
Yes, and it's only capable of so much absorption or release. I guarantee if you do not properly dry your flowers before jarring with a boveda pack, you'll definitely mess up the cannabis.
 

Olive Drab Green

Well-Known Member
Yes, and it's only capable of so much absorption or release. I guarantee if you do not properly dry your flowers before jarring with a boveda pack, you'll definitely mess up the cannabis.
Well, yeah, you should still dry for 3-5 days. It's meant for curing. Like, not just storing, specifically for curing. And the 62s were made specifically to cure cannabis.
 

thewanderingjack

Well-Known Member
you can also look for traditional curing methods for tobacco and other plants... the numbers aren't relevant, but the methods and info is very informative... it's where most (all?) the current cannabis curing info began... just tailored to suit a need.

I make my own humidity packs (don't ask, secret recipe ;-)) that do the same as boveda... either dry or add moisture as needed. I learned a lot from working in a shop that sold a lot/high end cigars (we had a walk in humidor... about 8-10'x 4-6') where I HAD to, for the sales side...
 
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