MeGaKiLlErMaN
Well-Known Member
Ive seen a few and I know it almost seems as hard as getting into DIY lights but its just as simplistic. If you are interested I have a sample available with some a few options that you can do.
The first is to hook up everything and let the radiator sit in with your reservoir so that it can be chilled as it dissipates heat.
The second is mounting the radiator on either the top of the light or on a wall.
The third (that I wouldn't recommend) is to treat the coolant as you would exhaust air and have an in and an out from the room, this would be the best long term solution but you would most likely get wet dissembling it.
So what do you need?
$80-120 - A GOOD water pump (its meant for computers so do NOT use ones for gardening unless you know what you're doing) you can find them cheaper... but this is where you dont want to skimp. You can get creative if you feel confident.
$45-120 - Radiator acts the same as the one on your car, uses liquid to remove heat from where ever you have the coolant running through.
$6-20 - Waterblocks, simple things but you will need to either use compression fittings or another way to clamp these down snugly as there is a good bit of pressure running though these lines.
cheap - Tubing 1/2in black will work fine, same stuff used for hydro
$10-15 -12VDC - an external power supply to run the pump and any fans you choose to use on the radiator.
$123 - 0.25in(rounded up) aluminum sheet that will support the light and act as a solid mounting surface. a bit over kill but you get the idea.
Now for this example Im using a light that really doesnt need the cooling that Im showing, this would be for if you wanted to run full boar or close to it, also this isnt a NEED its more of a "because why the fuck not?"
__________________________________________________________________________________________________
CXB3590DD36V5000K 10 COBS @2.4A ON 1.813 PROFILE HEATSINK
16 SQ.FT. CANOPY 92% EFFICIENT DRIVER @15 CENTS PER KWH
Total power watts at the wall: 952.17
Cobs power watts: 876
Total voltage forward: 365
Total lumens: 152477
Total PAR watts assuming 10% loss: 424
Total PPF: 1895.28
PPFD based on canopy area: 1275.04
PAR watts per sq.ft.: 26.5
Cob efficiency: 53.72%
Power watts per sq.ft.: 54.75
Voltage forward per cob: 36.48
Lumens per watt: 174.06
Heatsink riser thickness / number of fins / fin's length: 0.3in/6/0.95in
Heatsink area per inch: 100.94 cm^2
Total heat watts: 405
umol/s/W / CRI: 4.47 / 70CRI
Heatsink length passive cooling @120cm^2/heatwatt: 481 inches
Heatsink length active cooling @40cm^2/heatwatt: 160 inches
COB cost dollar per PAR watt: $1.1
Electric cost @12/12 in 30 days: $51.92
Electric cost @18/6 in 30 days: $77.63
Cost per cob: $46.5
Heatsink cost per inch cut: $0.66
Total cobs cost: $465
Total heatsink passive cooling cost: $317 (keep this number in mind)
Total heatsink active cooling cost: $105
__________________________________________________________________________________________________
The numbers for the passive are close to the water cool numbers, but with watercooling you would increase the efficiency even more. I cant see these going over 80F honestly.. With the water being chilled. Liquid is the most efficient way to cool something hot down.
So how the hell do you mount them to a .25in thick piece of metal? How would you tap the holes when there's going to be a water block behind it?
Easy, thermal adhesive.
You would not believe me if I told you how many times Ive used this stuff, but it works and is PERMANENT. Your cobs will NOT be coming off until you throw the light out, but that wont be for years. Im sure you could use shot screws and a thicker metal but it wouldn't be cost effective.
So the cost of everything... kinda pricey? yeah.. but its COBs this is an investment for the investment... so it will last much longer at a lower temp.
The install of everything is pretty straight forward, adhere the leds to one side of the panel spaced to your liking, then on the other side mount the water blocks with the in and outlets facing inboard to make the tubing connect easily. The pump can be set up anywhere but its impotant to understand that these pumps have very little height pumping capabilities... so dont put a long run going straight up. The system should pull water out of the reservoir and pump it into the heatsinks, then it goes into the radiator and back to the reservoir.
Thats really it, like I said mind the long runs or choose a higher end pump. The one below it for long term use and being kept in short runs like inside the grow room to a wall mounted radiator.
Total estimated cost:$1,131
(assuming you have the tubing)
LEDS: $465
Drivers: depends on how you want to run them but $250 sounds like a safe number
Cooling total: $386
So for around $1131 you can have a kick ass light that puts out some photons and is watercooled. This is not for everyone but any people that love messing with things will get addicted.
The first is to hook up everything and let the radiator sit in with your reservoir so that it can be chilled as it dissipates heat.
The second is mounting the radiator on either the top of the light or on a wall.
The third (that I wouldn't recommend) is to treat the coolant as you would exhaust air and have an in and an out from the room, this would be the best long term solution but you would most likely get wet dissembling it.
So what do you need?
$80-120 - A GOOD water pump (its meant for computers so do NOT use ones for gardening unless you know what you're doing) you can find them cheaper... but this is where you dont want to skimp. You can get creative if you feel confident.
$45-120 - Radiator acts the same as the one on your car, uses liquid to remove heat from where ever you have the coolant running through.
$6-20 - Waterblocks, simple things but you will need to either use compression fittings or another way to clamp these down snugly as there is a good bit of pressure running though these lines.
cheap - Tubing 1/2in black will work fine, same stuff used for hydro
$10-15 -12VDC - an external power supply to run the pump and any fans you choose to use on the radiator.
$123 - 0.25in(rounded up) aluminum sheet that will support the light and act as a solid mounting surface. a bit over kill but you get the idea.
Now for this example Im using a light that really doesnt need the cooling that Im showing, this would be for if you wanted to run full boar or close to it, also this isnt a NEED its more of a "because why the fuck not?"
__________________________________________________________________________________________________
CXB3590DD36V5000K 10 COBS @2.4A ON 1.813 PROFILE HEATSINK
16 SQ.FT. CANOPY 92% EFFICIENT DRIVER @15 CENTS PER KWH
Total power watts at the wall: 952.17
Cobs power watts: 876
Total voltage forward: 365
Total lumens: 152477
Total PAR watts assuming 10% loss: 424
Total PPF: 1895.28
PPFD based on canopy area: 1275.04
PAR watts per sq.ft.: 26.5
Cob efficiency: 53.72%
Power watts per sq.ft.: 54.75
Voltage forward per cob: 36.48
Lumens per watt: 174.06
Heatsink riser thickness / number of fins / fin's length: 0.3in/6/0.95in
Heatsink area per inch: 100.94 cm^2
Total heat watts: 405
umol/s/W / CRI: 4.47 / 70CRI
Heatsink length passive cooling @120cm^2/heatwatt: 481 inches
Heatsink length active cooling @40cm^2/heatwatt: 160 inches
COB cost dollar per PAR watt: $1.1
Electric cost @12/12 in 30 days: $51.92
Electric cost @18/6 in 30 days: $77.63
Cost per cob: $46.5
Heatsink cost per inch cut: $0.66
Total cobs cost: $465
Total heatsink passive cooling cost: $317 (keep this number in mind)
Total heatsink active cooling cost: $105
__________________________________________________________________________________________________
The numbers for the passive are close to the water cool numbers, but with watercooling you would increase the efficiency even more. I cant see these going over 80F honestly.. With the water being chilled. Liquid is the most efficient way to cool something hot down.
So how the hell do you mount them to a .25in thick piece of metal? How would you tap the holes when there's going to be a water block behind it?
Easy, thermal adhesive.
You would not believe me if I told you how many times Ive used this stuff, but it works and is PERMANENT. Your cobs will NOT be coming off until you throw the light out, but that wont be for years. Im sure you could use shot screws and a thicker metal but it wouldn't be cost effective.
So the cost of everything... kinda pricey? yeah.. but its COBs this is an investment for the investment... so it will last much longer at a lower temp.
The install of everything is pretty straight forward, adhere the leds to one side of the panel spaced to your liking, then on the other side mount the water blocks with the in and outlets facing inboard to make the tubing connect easily. The pump can be set up anywhere but its impotant to understand that these pumps have very little height pumping capabilities... so dont put a long run going straight up. The system should pull water out of the reservoir and pump it into the heatsinks, then it goes into the radiator and back to the reservoir.
Thats really it, like I said mind the long runs or choose a higher end pump. The one below it for long term use and being kept in short runs like inside the grow room to a wall mounted radiator.
Total estimated cost:$1,131
(assuming you have the tubing)
LEDS: $465
Drivers: depends on how you want to run them but $250 sounds like a safe number
Cooling total: $386
So for around $1131 you can have a kick ass light that puts out some photons and is watercooled. This is not for everyone but any people that love messing with things will get addicted.
