3 lbs a light publication

jarvild

Well-Known Member
what about when one adds a scrog/trelis? that adds to sq ft yes?
You're still limited by the sq. footage. 4x4 is 16 sq.ft. . Personally I achieve better yields with out a scrog, at least with the G-13 as there is not much branching and there is enough light penetration to get to the bottom of the plants.
 

coughphee.connoiseur

Well-Known Member
You're still limited by the sq. footage. 4x4 is 16 sq.ft. . Personally I achieve better yields with out a scrog, at least with the G-13 as there is not much branching and there is enough light penetration to get to the bottom of the plants.
ok cool. I assumed but also thought i may have read as well but can't back it up with anything that you gain some feet with scrolling/trelis.
 

BobCajun

Well-Known Member
what about when one adds a scrog/trelis? that adds to sq ft yes?
I don't know, it's just what I read, most growers consistently got right around 45 g sq/ft. Then when I got my highest yield last time it worked out to 45, so I have reason to believe it. And the way I do it is to take most upper leaves off so it actually does become 3D, even bottom buds get thick. I got a lot less when I just left all the leaves on, got 80 grams a recent time I did it that way. I did put a stronger fan in the chamber recently too though, so that may be what was keeping yields down before. Weird though because the plants grew vigorously, just didn't yield much. I was using PC fans with carbon filter pad over them and it was just inadequate. Changed to bathroom fans and apparently it helped.

BTW, the reason why it makes sense to remove upper leaves in indoor grows is that unlike sunlight, lamp light can't penetrate far. Outdoors, maximum leaves might equal maximum yield but indoors probably not. Just equals maybe 1' of thick buds and 2' of useless fluff.

I only do the defoliation as required though, not just wholesale hacking. I only remove leaves that are causing significant shading of bud sites, which is actually most upper leaf. I don't remove bottom leaf at all, unless they're dying. As long as you have a fairly solid few layers of leaf on the bottom all the light will be used anyway. Just that now those bottom leaves serve a useful purpose rather than just dying off as they usually do. I also don't lollipop, because I want those lower buds to fatten up, maybe a few really thin very bottom ones need removal but not many. The idea is to have a healthy bottom area with a mixture of leaves and buds but everything above that is pretty much all flowers. It's only on the very last week that I really clean up the upper colas, basically manicuring them while they're still alive. Saves a lot of work later too. When you cut a leaf off you have to get the whole leaf stem right at the stalk. If you leave leaf stems on they will mold after they die and partially dry and it will then spread.
 

loftygoals

Well-Known Member
I don't know, it's just what I read, most growers consistently got right around 45 g sq/ft. Then when I got my highest yield last time it worked out to 45, so I have reason to believe it. And the way I do it is to take most upper leaves off so it actually does become 3D, even bottom buds get thick. I got a lot less when I just left all the leaves on, got 80 grams a recent time I did it that way. I did put a stronger fan in the chamber recently too though, so that may be what was keeping yields down before. Weird though because the plants grew vigorously, just didn't yield much. I was using PC fans with carbon filter pad over them and it was just inadequate. Changed to bathroom fans and apparently it helped.

BTW, the reason why it makes sense to remove upper leaves in indoor grows is that unlike sunlight, lamp light can't penetrate far. Outdoors, maximum leaves might equal maximum yield but indoors probably not. Just equals maybe 1' of thick buds and 2' of useless fluff.

I only do the defoliation as required though, not just wholesale hacking. I only remove leaves that are causing significant shading of bud sites, which is actually most upper leaf. I don't remove bottom leaf at all, unless they're dying. As long as you have a fairly solid few layers of leaf on the bottom all the light will be used anyway. Just that now those bottom leaves serve a useful purpose rather than just dying off as they usually do. I also don't lollipop, because I want those lower buds to fatten up, maybe a few really thin very bottom ones need removal but not many. The idea is to have a healthy bottom area with a mixture of leaves and buds but everything above that is pretty much all flowers. It's only on the very last week that I really clean up the upper colas, basically manicuring them while they're still alive. Saves a lot of work later too. When you cut a leaf off you have to get the whole leaf stem right at the stalk. If you leave leaf stems on they will mold after they die and partially dry and it will then spread.
This is quite an interesting subject. According to your formula I had already maxed out my yield per sq ft with 1200w of COB lighting per 8x4 (870 umol/s ppfd). On this run I added another 600w so I have 1800w per 8x4... am I going to see any increase in yield? I am at 1400 umol/s ppfd now.

That is part of the reason I have gone for aggressive defoliation. I don't think I would have seen much increase in yield at all with a standard canopy. Anyway we shall see... I am eagerly awaiting my own results!

I also like your reasoning on defoliating the top of the canopy more than the bottom.
 

BobCajun

Well-Known Member
This is quite an interesting subject. According to your formula I had already maxed out my yield per sq ft with 1200w of COB lighting per 8x4 (870 umol/s ppfd). On this run I added another 600w so I have 1800w per 8x4... am I going to see any increase in yield? I am at 1400 umol/s ppfd now.

That is part of the reason I have gone for aggressive defoliation. I don't think I would have seen much increase in yield at all with a standard canopy. Anyway we shall see... I am eagerly awaiting my own results!

I also like your reasoning on defoliating the top of the canopy more than the bottom.
Hard to say if increased light will equal increased yield. Usually there is some increase but it drops off rapidly. Like I read an article where they got a little over 400 g/sq meter with 270w of HPS and got around 560 with 600w, which interestingly is right about 44g/sq ft, taking a sq meter as roughly 13 sq feet.

BTW, when I said one of my batches only yielded 80 g I forgot that I had to chop at 8 weeks that time. I got the 200g with 10 full weeks. I really can't emphasize enough how important it is to go a full 10 weeks.
 

Budley Doright

Well-Known Member
Well she is pretty deficient in some areas it seems ..... so she didn't reach her full potential. She may have well produced 448 or close... did she receive enough sunlight? Any clue of the DLI she received ?

By the way not bagging on u at all .... very rarely do i see a complete in-deficient plant from seed/clone to harvest.
Well yup she struggled but not due to deficiencies but more lack of water I think. Also the pic takin was after it had went through 3-4 hard frosts and was harvested the next day. The pic was more to show that some of the pics I see here that state they were a two pound plant are IMO suspect :(. Here's a pic of her just before harvest IMG_3016.JPG and yes if it wasn't for the temps she should have had another 10 days I think. Moral of this story is sativa and outdoors in Ontario is a bad thing lol.
Edit: not talking about suspect plants in this thread, just forums in general.
 

boilingoil

Well-Known Member
Hard to tell bud density with a pic IMO. In my area 14.9 hours is my max sunrise to sunset time outdoors. I believe DLI is important in indoor grows as why we run 18/6 during veg. That's why when I flip to flower my lights go to 14/10 and gets cut by half an hour every week until 12/12 then 11/13 the last two weeks
 

coughphee.connoiseur

Well-Known Member
Hard to tell bud density with a pic IMO. In my area 14.9 hours is my max sunrise to sunset time outdoors. I believe DLI is important in indoor grows as why we run 18/6 during veg. That's why when I flip to flower my lights go to 14/10 and gets cut by half an hour every week until 12/12 then 11/13 the last two weeks
i thought about doing something simiilar for the bloom period for sure ... i like that idea of that tech. thanks for sharing b/o !
 

BobCajun

Well-Known Member
i thought about doing something simiilar for the bloom period for sure ... i like that idea of that tech. thanks for sharing b/o !
Don't you find reduced potency with the 11/13 the last 2 weeks? I don't think reducing it from 12 will actually help anything. I reduced to 8 hours light on the last week of my last batch and it was less potent and there was no ripening effect that I could notice being different from 12.

I do sometimes use 13 in early flowering, after the first week of 12 to get them into flowering quickly, to give increased plant size and long colas. I wouldn't use it when there are significant buds in full development though, because it makes them get leafy and loose. There's no serious buds until week 6-7 so before that it seems to be helpful.
 

coughphee.connoiseur

Well-Known Member
Don't you find reduced potency with the 11/13 the last 2 weeks? I don't think reducing it from 12 will actually help anything. I reduced to 8 hours light on the last week of my last batch and it was less potent and there was no ripening effect that I could notice being different from 12.

I do sometimes use 13 in early flowering, after the first week of 12 to get them into flowering quickly, to give increased plant size and long colas. I wouldn't use it when there are significant buds in full development though, because it makes them get leafy and loose. There's no serious buds until week 6-7 so before that it seems to be helpful.
can't say that i do find that.... but i do believe it is possible fi sure but also strain dependent. Ive spoken with guru's at the cups and conventions and always have questions for them.

The breeder Dj short himself mentioned that the 11/13 light schedule have completely different pheno expression in his own experience and others close.

I could see sativa's resulting in a loss of potency maybe because the light hoggers that they are but not so much dominant indices ...but some ppl do it for energy purposes ... shorter flowering etc...
 

BobCajun

Well-Known Member
can't say that i do find that.... but i do believe it is possible fi sure but also strain dependent. Ive spoken with guru's at the cups and conventions and always have questions for them.

The breeder Dj short himself mentioned that the 11/13 light schedule have completely different pheno expression in his own experience and others close.

I could see sativa's resulting in a loss of potency maybe because the light hoggers that they are but not so much dominant indices ...but some ppl do it for energy purposes ... shorter flowering etc...
Maybe just for the last 2 weeks it's not too bad on potency. I've read things where using 11/13 for the whole flower cycle cut potency almost in half, about 10% THC as opposed to about 20. I haven't personally found a benefit to reduced hours. I let em go for 10 weeks and they ripen up naturally, at least to my satisfaction. Aren't many Indica hybrids that won't ripen in 10 weeks on 12 hours. Many people are just too impatient and try to speed things up. What's the point? Once you have a multi-stage setup you get harvests every few weeks anyway, there's no big wait. My advice is simply 12/12 except for maybe 13/11 in the early weeks of flowering. 12/12 gives just the right bud density and highest potency, higher than 11 and higher than 13. Could maybe go about 15 minutes either side of 12 but that's about it.
 

boilingoil

Well-Known Member
Yes , I've read some article stating max potency potential of THC happens around the 45 day mark of flower.
 

BobCajun

Well-Known Member
Yes , I've read some article stating max potency potential of THC happens around the 45 day mark of flower.
Yeah I've seen data showing max potency at week 7, though it's only very slightly less potent at later weeks. The table I saw showed 8.94% THC at 7 weeks, 8.92 at week 8, 8.92 again at week 9 and 8.33 at week 10. So actually it's pretty much the same from 7 to 10 weeks. However, the buds at earlier weeks will of course be small so it would be counterproductive to harvest at week 7.

The potency may be similar but the product would be less desirable, being harsher for one thing due to more stalk in the buds than at later stages, and because the buds would look like shit. It is interesting though that they do get such high potency as early as week 7. I have noticed myself that bud doesn't really get me very high until about 7 weeks, at which point I can get a good idea of what the finished product will be like potency and quality of high wise.
 

Roger A. Shrubber

Well-Known Member
i'm a compulsive fiddler, and start checking trichs about the end of week 5. theres always variations, but week 7 seems to be when i start seeing a significant amount of clear trichs turning cloudy. i've taken samples and theres potency, but no "body"...i think the things that make it more than a buzz, the things that make you good and truely fucked up, take a little longer to mature than the obvious signs, like milky trichs
 

BobCajun

Well-Known Member
i'm a compulsive fiddler, and start checking trichs about the end of week 5. theres always variations, but week 7 seems to be when i start seeing a significant amount of clear trichs turning cloudy. i've taken samples and theres potency, but no "body"...i think the things that make it more than a buzz, the things that make you good and truely fucked up, take a little longer to mature than the obvious signs, like milky trichs
It works for me just to schedule chopping at the end of week 10 regardless of anything else. Besides, the studies have shown as mentioned earlier that THC content doesn't actually change much from week 7 to 10, so what's the point of doing all that microscopic examination of trichs? After week 7 it's all a matter of getting the most amount of the similarly potent buds and the highest calyx to internal stems ratio which means improvement in smoking quality. They're just not real buds before 10 weeks, they're underinflated harsh mockeries of buds.
 

boilingoil

Well-Known Member
I was in no way insinuating that i harvest that early, but I do know a few people that harvest at 50 days no matter what. Minimum for me is 9 weeks.
 
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