My Amare, Hydroponics Hut, & SunCloak Grow

Sorry to hear about the PM @Hybridway have you tried using green cure or potassium bicarbinate? It's organic and safe to consume, also doesnt hurt the plants and kills PM on contact. Apply neem oil to leaf shine a day after you apply your potassium bicarb. Good luck.
 
Yodaweed said:
Sorry to hear about the PM @Hybridway have you tried using green cure or potassium bicarbinate? It's organic and safe to consume, also doesnt hurt the plants and kills PM on contact. Apply neem oil to leaf shine a day after you apply your potassium bicarb. Good luck.
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Thanks! I don't really have pm, but it is present so I'm trying to nip it in the bud now.
I have GreenCure & Organicide. The GC gets rid of it shirt term & the Organicide last for about a month & smells like Fish guts.
 
Happy to see my the O-Zone generator works. This is a pm spot after 1 treatment.
image.jpg
Now that I see the Ozone generator really works, I'd almost rather spray them w/ the completely same Organicide then using that poison, Eagle20. Even if it's still veg & there's no flowers, I still don't like the idea of it. Doesn't it seep into the plant hence becoming part of its chemical/genetic make for the rest of its life? Wouldn't that somehow get into the bud?
I dunno! Don't like the idea of it though. I wish I could find solid confirmation that it's totally safe. I've always used organic resolutions.

Vic confirmed today. What a guy, even offered me the option for faster shipping seeing how I'm in a hurry. Almost did it but realized I had to wait on the Eagle to land.
4 , Pro-4's in route!
Row will consist of x6 Pro-4's & x1 SE450.
Man, those Pro-4's have awesome coverage. They work perfect in my space.
 
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@Hybridway
Hybridway said:
After speaking to Victor about it 18 months ago, he's response was that extensive testing proved the enhanced was the way to go. (More scientific of an answer actually to do w/ plant morphology)
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can you share some of this extensive testing Victor has done?
you know back up your claims since you wont acknowledge this question in the other thread
 
Hybridway said:
Happy to see my the O-Zone generator works. This is a pm spot after 1 treatment.
View attachment 3849705
Now that I see the Ozone generator really works, I'd almost rather spray them w/ the completely same Organicide then using that poison, Eagle20. Even if it's still veg & there's no flowers, I still don't like the idea of it. Doesn't it seep into the plant hence becoming part of its chemical/genetic make for the rest of its life? Wouldn't that somehow get into the bud?
I dunno! Don't like the idea of it though. I wish I could find solid confirmation that it's totally safe. I've always used organic resolutions.

Vic confirmed today. What a guy, even offered me the option for faster shipping seeing how I'm in a hurry. Almost did it but realized I had to wait on the Eagle to land.
4 , Pro-4's in route!
Row will consist of x6 Pro-4's & x1 SE450.
Man, those Pro-4's have awesome coverage. They work perfect in my space.
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Yes, it's a systemic fungicide meaning it's absorb by the plant and becomes part of the cellular structure of the plant and it takes really long to get out of the plant, it has a half life of 66 days but still can be tested in plants up to 273 days after use. IMO , never use it, throw the plants away if it gets that bad.

http://www.coloradogreenlab.com/blo...ntext-of-cannabis-cultivation-and-consumption
 
Got the SE260Epi and all I can say is DAAAAAAAANG! Vic told me to check after few hours and I can see a change... few hours it was.
And the unit looks great. Tight build, you can see everything in it. Love how the reds blend in.
Will shop again there for sure!
 
born2grow1 said:
Heys guys how it going here update 1 week into flower love how amare grows
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Damn! Those are some happy girls you got there! Nice canopy. Mines gonna have a bunch of dips & hollow spots in it I think.
My plants suffered greatly in veg but are popping back to life quick under my Amare's. image.jpgimage.jpgJust set them to where they'd be for flower. Had to remove some plants, they just won't all fit in the new room this way.

Got the Cloak set to how it will be for flower too. Had to put a few girls in there that were loli-popped & planned to go under the Amare's originally.
image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg
 
zep_lover said:
looks great!any problems with maintaining your environment?which do you think generates more heat?
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Nope, environment is good. Outside winter air as the AC. I love this time of the year.
The Amare's generate more heat. They're power houses.

Yodaweed said:
Looking good bro, how tall do those sun cloaks go ? Hope the PM stays at bay for you .
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They come on 24", 32" & 48".
Mines the 32". More density.
Didn't really have the PM, just saw one spot n know it's present.
No more now.
 
Hybridway said:
Nope, environment is good. Outside winter air as the AC. I love this time of the year.
The Amare's generate more heat. They're power houses.


They come on 24", 32" & 48".
Mines the 32". More density.
Didn't really have the PM, just saw one spot n know it's present.
No more now.
Click to expand...

I wouldn't be happy about it generating heat myself but if it's a benifits for you glad it worked out. I have to run HPS or my room gets too cold.. Because of efficiently not producing heat and all
 
Yes, but not as much as you would think, I would guess one 1000W DE hps puts out the same (BTU) as 3000W of DIY Running at 61% Efficient. The DIY would only need 3736BTU to keep it at what ever temp you want it at. 4000BTU for a Gavita 1000W. So yes it may warm up the room but that calls its efficiency into question.
 
@MongoFr
MeGaKiLlErMaN said:
Yes, but not as much as you would think, I would guess one 1000W DE hps puts out the same (BTU) as 3000W of DIY Running at 61% Efficient. The DIY would only need 3736BTU to keep it at what ever temp you want it at. 4000BTU for a Gavita 1000W. So yes it may warm up the room but that calls its efficiency into question.
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You can't be serious? Calls the efficiency into question because there's heat?
There's not many lights more efficient then the Cloak & it generated heat. Little in comparison to the 1200w of hps it equivalents in yield but still gives off some heat.
The Amare's are pretty cool in comparison to what they equivalent to in HPS as well.
when you have that much light going there's gonna be some heat.
 
Hybridway said:
@MongoFr


You can't be serious? Calls the efficiency into question because there's heat?
There's not many lights more efficient then the Cloak & it generated heat. Little in comparison to the 1200w of hps it equivalents in yield but still gives off some heat.
The Amare's are pretty cool in comparison to what they equivalent to in HPS as well.
when you have that much light going there's gonna be some heat.
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This post shows hat you do not understand why role efficiency plays in converting electricity to heat/usable light. Whats the rated current for the leds on the cloak compared to the driving current? It needs to be around 50% of max power to be in the efficient category. The light I also stated would put out 984PPFD in a 80SQ/F room for 3000W. Hard to beat those numbers. And all while putting out less of heat as ONE 1000W DE HPS....


CXB3590CD36V3500K 80 COBS @1.05A ON 5.88 PROFILE HEATSINK
80 SQ.FT. CANOPY 94% EFFICIENT DRIVER @15 CENTS PER KWH
Total power watts at the wall: 3024.47
Cobs power watts: 2843
Total voltage forward: 2708
Total lumens: 554385
Total PAR watts assuming 10% loss: 1574
Total PPF: 7319.1
PPFD based on canopy area: 984.78
PAR watts per sq.ft.: 19.68
Cob efficiency: 61.5%
Power watts per sq.ft.: 35.54
Voltage forward per cob: 33.85
Lumens per watt: 195.0
Heatsink riser thickness / number of fins / fin's length: 0.27in/14/1.0in
Heatsink area per inch: 260.01 cm^2
Total heat watts: 1095
umol/s/W / CRI: 4.65 / Estimated
Heatsink length passive cooling @120cm^2/heatwatt: 505 inches
Heatsink length active cooling @40cm^2/heatwatt: 168 inches
COB cost dollar per PAR watt: $2.42
Electric cost @12/12 in 30 days: $163.82
Electric cost @18/6 in 30 days: $245.48
Cost per cob: $47.62
Heatsink cost per inch cut: $1.74
Total cobs cost: $3810
Total heatsink passive cooling cost: $879
Total heatsink active cooling cost: $292
 
MeGaKiLlErMaN said:
This post shows hat you do not understand why role efficiency plays in converting electricity to heat/usable light. Whats the rated current for the leds on the cloak compared to the driving current? It needs to be around 50% of max power to be in the efficient category. The light I also stated would put out 984PPFD in a 80SQ/F room for 3000W. Hard to beat those numbers. And all while putting out less of heat as ONE 1000W DE HPS....


CXB3590CD36V3500K 80 COBS @1.05A ON 5.88 PROFILE HEATSINK
80 SQ.FT. CANOPY 94% EFFICIENT DRIVER @15 CENTS PER KWH
Total power watts at the wall: 3024.47
Cobs power watts: 2843
Total voltage forward: 2708
Total lumens: 554385
Total PAR watts assuming 10% loss: 1574
Total PPF: 7319.1
PPFD based on canopy area: 984.78
PAR watts per sq.ft.: 19.68
Cob efficiency: 61.5%
Power watts per sq.ft.: 35.54
Voltage forward per cob: 33.85
Lumens per watt: 195.0
Heatsink riser thickness / number of fins / fin's length: 0.27in/14/1.0in
Heatsink area per inch: 260.01 cm^2
Total heat watts: 1095
umol/s/W / CRI: 4.65 / Estimated
Heatsink length passive cooling @120cm^2/heatwatt: 505 inches
Heatsink length active cooling @40cm^2/heatwatt: 168 inches
COB cost dollar per PAR watt: $2.42
Electric cost @12/12 in 30 days: $163.82
Electric cost @18/6 in 30 days: $245.48
Cost per cob: $47.62
Heatsink cost per inch cut: $1.74
Total cobs cost: $3810
Total heatsink passive cooling cost: $879
Total heatsink active cooling cost: $292
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See first law of thermodynamics , that's not right at all. Those LEDs still produce heat, it's just mostly dissipated by the heat sink.
 
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