PetFlora
Well-Known Member
Everything is well within range of what the mother donor receivedLighting or feed, I would guess. Did you cut blues from your spectrum? Could also be related to micronutrient content remaining high late in the cycle.
Everything is well within range of what the mother donor receivedLighting or feed, I would guess. Did you cut blues from your spectrum? Could also be related to micronutrient content remaining high late in the cycle.
Thanks! I don't really have pm, but it is present so I'm trying to nip it in the bud now.Sorry to hear about the PM @Hybridway have you tried using green cure or potassium bicarbinate? It's organic and safe to consume, also doesnt hurt the plants and kills PM on contact. Apply neem oil to leaf shine a day after you apply your potassium bicarb. Good luck.
can you share some of this extensive testing Victor has done?After speaking to Victor about it 18 months ago, he's response was that extensive testing proved the enhanced was the way to go. (More scientific of an answer actually to do w/ plant morphology)
Yes, it's a systemic fungicide meaning it's absorb by the plant and becomes part of the cellular structure of the plant and it takes really long to get out of the plant, it has a half life of 66 days but still can be tested in plants up to 273 days after use. IMO , never use it, throw the plants away if it gets that bad.Happy to see my the O-Zone generator works. This is a pm spot after 1 treatment.
View attachment 3849705
Now that I see the Ozone generator really works, I'd almost rather spray them w/ the completely same Organicide then using that poison, Eagle20. Even if it's still veg & there's no flowers, I still don't like the idea of it. Doesn't it seep into the plant hence becoming part of its chemical/genetic make for the rest of its life? Wouldn't that somehow get into the bud?
I dunno! Don't like the idea of it though. I wish I could find solid confirmation that it's totally safe. I've always used organic resolutions.
Vic confirmed today. What a guy, even offered me the option for faster shipping seeing how I'm in a hurry. Almost did it but realized I had to wait on the Eagle to land.
4 , Pro-4's in route!
Row will consist of x6 Pro-4's & x1 SE450.
Man, those Pro-4's have awesome coverage. They work perfect in my space.
Damn! Those are some happy girls you got there! Nice canopy. Mines gonna have a bunch of dips & hollow spots in it I think.Heys guys how it going here update 1 week into flower love how amare grows
Nope, environment is good. Outside winter air as the AC. I love this time of the year.looks great!any problems with maintaining your environment?which do you think generates more heat?
They come on 24", 32" & 48".Looking good bro, how tall do those sun cloaks go ? Hope the PM stays at bay for you .
I wouldn't be happy about it generating heat myself but if it's a benifits for you glad it worked out. I have to run HPS or my room gets too cold.. Because of efficiently not producing heat and allNope, environment is good. Outside winter air as the AC. I love this time of the year.
The Amare's generate more heat. They're power houses.
They come on 24", 32" & 48".
Mines the 32". More density.
Didn't really have the PM, just saw one spot n know it's present.
No more now.
All lights generate heat.I wouldn't be happy about it generating heat myself but if it's a benifits for you glad it worked out. I have to run HPS or my room gets too cold.. Because of efficiently not producing heat and all
http://www.rapidtables.com/convert/power/Watt_to_BTU.htmAll lights generate heat.
You can't be serious? Calls the efficiency into question because there's heat?Yes, but not as much as you would think, I would guess one 1000W DE hps puts out the same (BTU) as 3000W of DIY Running at 61% Efficient. The DIY would only need 3736BTU to keep it at what ever temp you want it at. 4000BTU for a Gavita 1000W. So yes it may warm up the room but that calls its efficiency into question.
This post shows hat you do not understand why role efficiency plays in converting electricity to heat/usable light. Whats the rated current for the leds on the cloak compared to the driving current? It needs to be around 50% of max power to be in the efficient category. The light I also stated would put out 984PPFD in a 80SQ/F room for 3000W. Hard to beat those numbers. And all while putting out less of heat as ONE 1000W DE HPS....@MongoFr
You can't be serious? Calls the efficiency into question because there's heat?
There's not many lights more efficient then the Cloak & it generated heat. Little in comparison to the 1200w of hps it equivalents in yield but still gives off some heat.
The Amare's are pretty cool in comparison to what they equivalent to in HPS as well.
when you have that much light going there's gonna be some heat.
See first law of thermodynamics , that's not right at all. Those LEDs still produce heat, it's just mostly dissipated by the heat sink.This post shows hat you do not understand why role efficiency plays in converting electricity to heat/usable light. Whats the rated current for the leds on the cloak compared to the driving current? It needs to be around 50% of max power to be in the efficient category. The light I also stated would put out 984PPFD in a 80SQ/F room for 3000W. Hard to beat those numbers. And all while putting out less of heat as ONE 1000W DE HPS....
CXB3590CD36V3500K 80 COBS @1.05A ON 5.88 PROFILE HEATSINK
80 SQ.FT. CANOPY 94% EFFICIENT DRIVER @15 CENTS PER KWH
Total power watts at the wall: 3024.47
Cobs power watts: 2843
Total voltage forward: 2708
Total lumens: 554385
Total PAR watts assuming 10% loss: 1574
Total PPF: 7319.1
PPFD based on canopy area: 984.78
PAR watts per sq.ft.: 19.68
Cob efficiency: 61.5%
Power watts per sq.ft.: 35.54
Voltage forward per cob: 33.85
Lumens per watt: 195.0
Heatsink riser thickness / number of fins / fin's length: 0.27in/14/1.0in
Heatsink area per inch: 260.01 cm^2
Total heat watts: 1095
umol/s/W / CRI: 4.65 / Estimated
Heatsink length passive cooling @120cm^2/heatwatt: 505 inches
Heatsink length active cooling @40cm^2/heatwatt: 168 inches
COB cost dollar per PAR watt: $2.42
Electric cost @12/12 in 30 days: $163.82
Electric cost @18/6 in 30 days: $245.48
Cost per cob: $47.62
Heatsink cost per inch cut: $1.74
Total cobs cost: $3810
Total heatsink passive cooling cost: $879
Total heatsink active cooling cost: $292