jay40353
Member
Great job!!! That's exactly what I want to build. Using 3070'sVoila, I did it, here's my setup, what a beast (4 cxb3590 and HLG-185-1400). Those Wago connectors are awesome, no soldering.
Matching Drivers and COBs
- Thread starter SupraSPL
- Start date
vahpor
Well-Known Member
What space you running this in? How much spread from cob to cob? What size heatsinks?
I had the same chips/power and in my 2x2x3' tent, I had the cobs pretty spread apart. You likely have more vertical space to allow the light to spread better, but be careful with intensity if your running them close with that layout.
It should rock though!
60*75*170cm. About 20 and 25 cm apart from each other. I will have to experiment with the right height, but I do have more vertical space, yes. Currently still unsure if I will run it 1.4a or a bit less. I hope my hot peppers like them too 
oh and the heat sinks have diameter of 13+ cm, height is 7+
oh and the heat sinks have diameter of 13+ cm, height is 7+
fearnoevil
Well-Known Member
say Bassman999, so were those 6 cobs supposed to be connected in PARALLEL insead of SERIAL? Cuz the first light I built, the prototype, I wired in serial and works fine.
But this time I got my COBs and drivers and have spent a couple of days building and wiring all 5 of them all up just to find out they don't work.
So I spent another day testing for shorts, correct amps/watt/volts and checking for loose connection and other issues, but nothing worked, not even shortening the number of COBs.
So I was beginning to think I'd mismatched the drivers and the COBs, but others, AHEM ;?D , assured me that these would work together.... hmmmm.Then it occurred to me, maybe try running them in parrallel instead of series...DOHH! So rewired one of the lights in parallel and DANG if it didn't light up nice and purty, lol Btw, when I knew I had to re-wire them and cut some of the tape to do so, I decided to just take em all apart and start over.
So to do a real quick test, I just connectted all six COB with their Ideal Snap-In mounts in a line on the table and connected them with bits of wire in parallel and some In-sure clips to the driver and WOW, it lit up like I had a piece of the Sun on my coffee table, lol. So I guess I answered my own question. I'll get some pics when they're all done soon ;?)
bassman999
Well-Known Member
I forgot, but did you get a driver that was a 48A or 54B? If so then wire in parallel.say Bassman999, so were those 6 cobs supposed to be connected in PARALLEL insead of SERIAL? Cuz the first light I built, the prototype, I wired in serial and works fine.
But this time I got my COBs and drivers and have spent a couple of days building and wiring all 5 of them all up just to find out they don't work.
So I spent another day testing for shorts, correct amps/watt/volts and checking for loose connection and other issues, but nothing worked, not even shortening the number of COBs.
Then it occurred to me, maybe try running them in parrallel instead of series...DOHH! So rewired one of the lights in parallel and DANG if it didn't light up nice and purty, lol Btw, when I knew I had to re-wire them and cut some of the tape to do so, I decided to just take em all apart and start over.
So to do a real quick test, I just connectted all six COB with their Ideal Snap-In mounts in a line on the table and connected them with bits of wire in parallel and some In-sure clips to the driver and WOW, it lit up like I had a piece of the Sun on my coffee table, lol. So I guess I answered my own question. I'll get some pics when they're all done soon ;?)
if you have a 700 1050 1400 etc...then wire in series.
fearnoevil
Well-Known Member
OHHH, now I understand, thank you for clearing that up Bassman, lol. I was wondering why my drivers had the voltage in the nomenclature instead of the milliamps and I kept trying to figure out how to convert it to calculate the load, sheesh!
Man what I don't know about led lights could fill a book.
Okay so mine's a 54B, so wire in parallel but how do I figure what the maximum/mimium number of COBs it will run?
PicklesRus
Well-Known Member
@Rahz @robincnn @Growmau5 @REALSTYLES @bassman999 @SupraSPL @stardustsailor
Hey guys I dont want to blow anything up/kill myself so I just wanted to ask.
johnsmithusername I think I'm trying to achieve the same goal as you, using some extra voltage to power some stuff. I originally started my diagram the same way you did, but I realized I think it has to be in series not parallel.
Hey guys I dont want to blow anything up/kill myself so I just wanted to ask.
johnsmithusername I think I'm trying to achieve the same goal as you, using some extra voltage to power some stuff. I originally started my diagram the same way you did, but I realized I think it has to be in series not parallel.
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robincnn
Well-Known Member
@PicklesRus
Looks fine to me. not sure what LED is 45.25V or 9V
45.25*4=181V
9*3=27V
Total 208V
Don't have to use all Vf of driver. I like to leave some headroom in driver to make sure it lights up even if Vf of LED's are higher than usual.
Looks fine to me. not sure what LED is 45.25V or 9V
45.25*4=181V
9*3=27V
Total 208V
Don't have to use all Vf of driver. I like to leave some headroom in driver to make sure it lights up even if Vf of LED's are higher than usual.
bassman999
Well-Known Member
It can run ANY number of cobs technically.OHHH, now I understand, thank you for clearing that up Bassman, lol. I was wondering why my drivers had the voltage in the nomenclature instead of the milliamps and I kept trying to figure out how to convert it to calculate the load, sheesh!
There is no maximum, you take the total current driver states and divide by number of cobs wired in , series. You run too few cobs and it will be too much power. I think the CXM22 for example can handle 2.4A max each but we arent gonna run then that hard. I run mine soft, but I would say run them 1.75a each or less, less being more efficient and my recommendation.
qballizhere
Well-Known Member
what was the exact model number of driver you have?OHHH, now I understand, thank you for clearing that up Bassman, lol. I was wondering why my drivers had the voltage in the nomenclature instead of the milliamps and I kept trying to figure out how to convert it to calculate the load, sheesh!
Example A 240-54 has 4.5a and can run 2 citizen @2.25a each or 3 @1.48A each each cob will be at 54v
EDIT and 4 cobs would be 1.11A each
johnsmithusername
Member
Okay so you've got a constant voltage driver which will always put out the specified Volts to each led in the circuit while dividing the current(amps) between the cobs in the circuit, so let's say you have the hlg -240-54, the 240 is how many watts total it can push through your circuit, then the 54 means it will push 54v through your circuit. If you divide the watts by the volts you get the amps of the driver so 240 watts divided by 54volts is 4.66 amps, rounded down to 4.5a
So this driver would be 240watts , 54 volts and 4.5 amps
fearnoevil
Well-Known Member
The drivers are Mean Well HLG 320H 54B - 321.3W, 54V, 5.95A
The COBs are CitiLed CLU048 1818C4 80CRI - l f_max:4140 mA, Vf_typ:52,
Vf_min:47.8 VDC, Vf_max:56.2 VDC, P_max:263.8 W <<<(btw what's this last spec mean?)
So I guess that means if I run 6 CLU048 1818C4 80CRI, they're running at 992mA, which seems a bit too soft, idk. Would it be better to run 5 at 1.2A (prefer to lean slightly more lumens over efficiency) or will 6 end up giving me more lumens at better efficiency? I still can't quite figure out how to calculate this.
And I know the COB is rated for 52v, but is it okay to use a driver with 54v output since the max V. rating is 56.2? That's another thing I'm not clear on as to input - if 6 COBs are running at less than 1A ,or about 1/4 of the rated max, how does that affect the chip if the input voltage is at or near it's max rating? I know if you lower the amperage, it runs more efficiently, but when you push the limits of it's V rating, or go the opposite and run them at the low end, does this have an effect on efficiency or chip life?
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fearnoevil
Well-Known Member
Thanks Bassman. So if the CLU048 1818C4 has a max forward voltage of 4140 mA, does that mean that with the driver pushing 5.95A that I could theroretically run just 2 COBs (inefficiently for sure but pushing the max output)?
And one thing I'm not clear on, if I use a dimmer, could I run just one COB but with the driver dimmed to say 70% if you wanted to get close to the max l f of 4140mA of the COB (sure you'd want to get the calculation correct, and again not that I'd want to but just trying to make sure I understand how these work ;?)?
PicklesRus
Well-Known Member
Sorry my numbers were a little off. I was reading them at a higher current.
4 x Bridgelux EB Series 1120mm (44in) strip : 44.2Vf = 176.8Vf
leaves 33.2 leftover
3000k option $20CDN: 9 x BXRE-30E0400-B-23 wired in two strings of three = 27Vf @ 700ma
total leaves 6.2Vf leftover.
These 9x little cobs are only 125 lm/w
5000K option 14.4$CDN: VERO 13 GEN 7 Series 5000K 70 CRI - BXRC-50C2001-D-74
2 x 30Vf wired as a parallel string @ 350ma = 30Vf @ 700ma.
These would be around 180 lm/w
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PicklesRus
Well-Known Member
No, I've got a constant current driver - but yes thank you for explaining that.
bassman999
Well-Known Member
The harder you run cob(more current) the higher the Voltage it pulls from driver.
Whats size space were you lighting again? I think either will be fine 5 or 6 cobs, I like to run more cobs lowered powered.
Dont worry about what the driver V rating is if its higher than cob, the chips takes what it wants and more available voltage wont harm it, but given higher current it will pull more volts.
A dc fan on the other hand wont like 18V if its rated at 12, but in opposition the fan only pulls what current it needs based on voltage available.
I hope that helps some
fearnoevil
Well-Known Member
Oh yeah, I remember now, lol, the led only takes what it needs as far as voltage, it's the amps/current that are important - I keep wanting to interchange those two, lol Again, thank you so much for helping me understand this
, I sure appreciate you taking the time man ;?)Btw the grow area is 9' x 11' and I'll have 6 light bars this run and then see if I need to add a couple more for a total of 8 by the next grow (I'll know better after I measure the output on these).
bassman999
Well-Known Member
Gonna be a nice grow, hope to see pics when its up and runningOh yeah, I remember now, lol, the led only takes what it needs as far as voltage, it's the amps/current that are important - I keep wanting to interchange those two, lol Again, thank you so much for helping me understand this
Btw the grow area is 9' x 11' and I'll have 6 light bars this run and then see if I need to add a couple more for a total of 8 by the next grow (I'll know better after I measure the output on these).
Gromax 3590B
Active Member
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