DWC Root Slime Cure aka How to Breed Beneficial Microbes

gwiito

Active Member
Hey everyone,
This thread has gotten me through some harsh times, in regards to the dreaded rot.
I have been using the original formula for a few years now, playing around with different products, as I go.
Recently, the past 6 months, or so, I was turned onto a great product that is an all in one sort of a thing.
It is awesome, it's called 'recharge' and I've used it in my dwc modular budgets, a couple of different ways.
You can brew it up, with a hand full of ewc, for 24-48hrs and treat it just like the original tea, recharge has molasses in it already, so you just use 1/2tsp per gl recharge plus a hand full of ewc, brew it and use it every 72hrs.
You can also skip the brewing part since this recharge powder becomes active, as soon as it hits water and is mixed up. Again, it's just 1/2tsp per gallon of chlorine free water and put a cup in each bucket or reservoir, every 72 hrs. When doing it this way, I noticed some drastic ph drops, which tells me the root rot could be winning the battle but as long as I stuck to the regiment and adjusted the ph every day, all was well. This cut down on needing to brew anything but the ph was unstable, compared to brewing it. Pros and cons.
You could also top dress with it. I tried this when I didn't feel like brewing or mixing anything and I had no ill side effects. I can't speak for long term effects because I wasn't consistent with it, sometimes I'd top dress some times I'd mix but either way it works and it works really well.
It also made my plants look healthier and more vigorous. The leaves looked more tough, the pm that I've been fighting with is still present but I don't need to keep on top of it, as much and the recharge doubles as a foliage spray too, to fight pm and give it a boost from the kelp.
Realgrowers.Com is where you can find it. I highly recommend checking it out.
Stay stoned
W.
 

Jeremyalan1972

New Member
If you use bennies you can easily get away with slightly higher res temps, mid 70's is fine. I wouldn't go so far as to add a heater or anything. Some people, using bennies, run clone water at 80 to encourage faster rooting.
So since I have been keeping the slime at bay with cooler res.and h202 then it'll be ok to remove the ice bottles and let water warm on up ?
 

Jeremyalan1972

New Member
H2O2 kills off all bacteria (good and bad)
No I get that Bro what I'm asking is when I use the tea , in fresh water , after the soak and clean , I can allow my res to raise again . See I have been in a res of R/O water and light H2O2 while my tea Brewed that h2o2and r/o water I kept below 65 to discourage any new slime/rot from growing. So from the article I see it says that it is more benificle for temps in 70s. Is that ok to do ? Allow temps to raise ? Or am I reading it wrong ?
 

Growdc

New Member
The amount of foam that forms when I brew my tea depends on how much EWC I use. I've never brewed without EWC so I don't know if the foam shows up with just great white. I have made batches where the foam was barely forming and it still worked just fine.



I use about 1/2 small scoop for 2.5 gallons.
Thank you Heisenberg. This was my last resort. I ran store bought bennies my entire first run, and they were fine. My new one, is suffering from root rot, well, i caught it early, so I think it's still at the cyanobacteria stage. I went from store bought bennies to sterile and after 4 H2O2 washes (2 days apart - that's how quickly they grow!!), my girl (who was just pruned too!!) looks so stressed out. Wilting and yellowing.

I found this thread and immediately ordered 3 packets of mycogrow soluble and drove to the closest hydro store to buy Ancient Forest.

Sorry, that was my story, but not my point. My point was regarding the foaming. I have a feeling that the foaming is like the bacteria breathing or something like that. I read a bunch about some people get foam or not trying to figure out if it's the EWC or what that causes the foam. I can tell you for sure now, it's ALL OF THE ABOVE.

So, I prepared a gallon of RO Water. I took the temperature and it was like 58 F. I have an immersion circulator for sous-vide cooking. I heated to water right to 70 F. Then started bubbling it. Tested pH... was about 7.2. I put in 6 mL Carbo Load (something I had on hand and the molasses are on order, can't seem to find the unsulfered in the grocery store.). And then as soon as the first teaspoon of mycogro soluble touched the water, foam like shot up, almost overflowing the bucket.

So, foaming must be good. I gave it the right temp and carbs ready to go, and they exploded. Heisenberg, would the reduction of foam be a good indicator for saying, "Look, now it's time to stop, before they all die, quickly put it into your diseased reservoir?
 

Underground Scientist

Well-Known Member
I'm just starting to experiment with DWC and realize the importance of rez temp and want to be proactive with bennies to avoid issues. I already have shelves with AN and GH on them and plan to run the AN for the DWC. I already brewed some Voodoo and Tarantula with some B-52. There's lots of aminos and some kelp that the bennies should like without having to add molasses. Brewing sugar water makes me a little nervous. When I get ready, I was going to bubble my hydroton in it before I toss it in the net pot to colonize it.

I've been reading here though. Maybe pick up a bag of ancient earth from the local hydro store.
 

Heisenberg

Well-Known Member
Can you tell me why?

I don't know why, but poor quality control would be my guess. When I wrote that I was only going by the anecdotal accounts of the people I talked to, but since then a report came out which tested many popular microbe products, and AN was among the shittiest. The link is somewhere not too far back I think. AN products had neither the diversity nor the numbers listed on the package. That said, it doesn't mean it's useless, it just means it's not worth the money. If you have some on the shelf go ahead and use it up.
 

Underground Scientist

Well-Known Member
I don't know why, but poor quality control would be my guess. When I wrote that I was only going by the anecdotal accounts of the people I talked to, but since then a report came out which tested many popular microbe products, and AN was among the shittiest. The link is somewhere not too far back I think. AN products had neither the diversity nor the numbers listed on the package. That said, it doesn't mean it's useless, it just means it's not worth the money. If you have some on the shelf go ahead and use it up.
Ok, I'll probably transition over to getting a bag of Ancient Forest and make a tea. In your experience, what kind of ppm is a tea made from Ancient Earth going to run, based on one of your formulations of 2 gallons of water to 2 handfuls of Ancient Earth. I think the local home brew shop has some cheap straining bags for hops and stuff that would probably work.
 

Bakersfield

Well-Known Member
I've recently started making a Heisenberg tea, using worm castings, molasses and the last of my Orca.
I don't grow in DWC but instead DTW drip feed coco.
I had slime growing in my rez and I think it was getting in my water lines and plugging my 1/4 inch feeder tubes.
Since using this tea, the slime is gone and the plants are loving it as well. They act like they're on steroids!
 
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Growdc

New Member
Ok, I'll probably transition over to getting a bag of Ancient Forest and make a tea. In your experience, what kind of ppm is a tea made from Ancient Earth going to run, based on one of your formulations of 2 gallons of water to 2 handfuls of Ancient Earth. I think the local home brew shop has some cheap straining bags for hops and stuff that would probably work.
If I may Mister Heisenberg,

You wouldn't be able to read ppm's in the tea as it's all organic stuff in there.

Right?
 

Bfunk327

Member
I don't know why, but poor quality control would be my guess. When I wrote that I was only going by the anecdotal accounts of the people I talked to, but since then a report came out which tested many popular microbe products, and AN was among the shittiest. The link is somewhere not too far back I think. AN products had neither the diversity nor the numbers listed on the package. That said, it doesn't mean it's useless, it just means it's not worth the money. If you have some on the shelf go ahead and use it up.
Hey heisenberg, how's it going? Great thread just found it a few days ago. I am in a fight with the slime now, have a batch of tea brewing 24 hours to go. My question is how much physan 20 per gallon of water to treat roots for clean and sterile before inoculation at res change. Have not been able to find that out anywhere I have looked. Also new too the forum and not sure if this is wven how to contact you apologies if not.
 

Bfunk327

Member
Hey heisenberg, how's it going? Great thread just found it a few days ago. I am in a fight with the slime now, have a batch of tea brewing 24 hours to go. My question is how much physan 20 per gallon of water to treat roots for clean and sterile before inoculation at res change. Have not been able to find that out anywhere I have looked. Also new too the forum and not sure if this is wven how to contact you apologies if not.
 

Bfunk327

Member
Hey all, hisenberg or who ever. My first brew will be ready in a few hours. I am on page 17 of 270 so a ways to go onreading whole thread. Question I have not adjusted ph in brew am I supposed too? I should add I use gh 3 part in veg 3 gallon buckets 5.5 net pot hydroten 2 gallons water and air stone. I flower in 8 gallon uc dwc plumed with 3" pvc using house and garden a& b aquaflakes not currently using root excelarater or amino treatment.
 

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rkymtnman

Well-Known Member
My question is how much physan 20 per gallon of water to treat roots for clean and sterile
since a sterile res works, why don't you stick with running a sterile res?

HTH pool shock. for about $4 bucks, you'll have a sterile res for about a decade.
 
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