DarthPlagueis
Well-Known Member
What is the difference between A and B meanwell drivers? The both technically "dim" the bulbs don't they? Last question before I have mastered the meanwell drivers lol.
The B version you need to solder your own potentiometer to dim. I think A has one built in. Don't take my word on it, but at least you'll know what to look forWhat is the difference between A and B meanwell drivers? The both technically "dim" the bulbs don't they? Last question before I have mastered the meanwell drivers lol.
Thats affirmativeThe B version you need to solder your own potentiometer to dim. I think A has one built in.
So the A is technically a better driver then?The B version you need to solder your own potentiometer to dim. I think A has one built in. Don't take my word on it, but at least you'll know what to look for
So neither is better? Both will work?The B version you need to solder your own potentiometer to dim. I think A has one built in. Don't take my word on it, but at least you'll know what to look for
B versions have leads that come off of the driver that you can use an external pot to dim. The A versions have them built in. If you cap the leads for the pot on a B version, you gain a bit more juice.What is the difference between A and B meanwell drivers? The both technically "dim" the bulbs don't they? Last question before I have mastered the meanwell drivers lol.
Yes.So the A is technically a better driver then?
So neither is better? Both will work?
So the A is technically a better driver then?
So neither is better? Both will work?
I'm looking at the HLG-240H-c1400 series from meanwell and the Zhonen PF-250 series, they are basically the same specs when it comes to wattage(250W) and max V(179v).I personally consider the B drivers as "better" only because the dimming option is a choice. The A versions being built in run at 100% as to where the B versions can just cap the leads, and eliminate the dimmer to run the driver at approx 106-108% of what is stated on most B drivers data sheets. If you dont require dimming then I suggest a B driver to get the maximum from your driver, and still have the option to add a dimming pot whenever you choose.
Just my .02
Actually you will get more watts from A type driver..... I know sounds nuts but it's true. Try one some time.I personally consider the B drivers as "better" only because the dimming option is a choice. The A versions being built in run at 100% as to where the B versions can just cap the leads, and eliminate the dimmer to run the driver at approx 106-108% of what is stated on most B drivers data sheets. If you dont require dimming then I suggest a B driver to get the maximum from your driver, and still have the option to add a dimming pot whenever you choose.
Just my .02
Already doneThe B also can dimmer multiple ways. So when someone makes a worthy light controller for grow, it will be plug and play.
Well I would probably only bring it down slightly for veg, I'd be careful to not overturn it. How fragile are we talking here? Eggshell?the b verision has 10% t0 100% dimming
the A has 40%-100% & that internal is not very well made being plastic phillps
they will break if used consonantly they r more intended as a set & forget dimmer
Both driver's will work with cree 3590 @36v because at that current the cob only uses about 35v each.i would think the same applies to the shitizen cobs as well but ask coberto after he answers my question about the thermal pads lolI'm looking at the HLG-240H-c1400 series from meanwell and the Zhonen PF-250 series, they are basically the same specs when it comes to wattage(250W) and max V(179v).
So if I have 5 citizen 1212's that run at 36v a piece, that's 180v total, so are you saying the A version would not work since it only has 179V of output, meanwhile the B version can put out 180+ or will that 1 volt not make a difference?
I'm trying to run the 1212's at 50 watts, someone told me that's the most efficient. You know this driver stuff isn't hard, its the companies and their wild spec sheets and labeling system that are so dang confusing...
By the way, I really appreciate all the help guys
gen 5 is a shade over 36V at 1400 mABoth driver's will work with cree 3590 @36v because at that current the cob only uses about 35v each.i would think the same applies to the shitizen cobs as well but ask coberto after he answers my question about the thermal pads lol
done,you're on the clock lmao dude you need to get some more apv 12/12 stocked,8 bucks ???? no wonder they are all gonepads are easy, sure, order them
Yeah Make Sure it's rated for 300Volts that should be printed on the wire it's selfAny specifications I need to know for the 18g wiring?