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What is the difference between A and B meanwell drivers? The both technically "dim" the bulbs don't they? Last question before I have mastered the meanwell drivers lol.
 
What is the difference between A and B meanwell drivers? The both technically "dim" the bulbs don't they? Last question before I have mastered the meanwell drivers lol.
The B version you need to solder your own potentiometer to dim. I think A has one built in. Don't take my word on it, but at least you'll know what to look for
 
The B version you need to solder your own potentiometer to dim. I think A has one built in. Don't take my word on it, but at least you'll know what to look for

So the A is technically a better driver then?
The B version you need to solder your own potentiometer to dim. I think A has one built in. Don't take my word on it, but at least you'll know what to look for

So neither is better? Both will work?
 
What is the difference between A and B meanwell drivers? The both technically "dim" the bulbs don't they? Last question before I have mastered the meanwell drivers lol.
B versions have leads that come off of the driver that you can use an external pot to dim. The A versions have them built in. If you cap the leads for the pot on a B version, you gain a bit more juice.
 
So the A is technically a better driver then?


So neither is better? Both will work?


I personally consider the B drivers as "better" only because the dimming option is a choice. The A versions being built in run at 100% as to where the B versions can just cap the leads, and eliminate the dimmer to run the driver at approx 106-108% of what is stated on most B drivers data sheets. If you dont require dimming then I suggest a B driver to get the maximum from your driver, and still have the option to add a dimming pot whenever you choose.
Just my .02
 
I personally consider the B drivers as "better" only because the dimming option is a choice. The A versions being built in run at 100% as to where the B versions can just cap the leads, and eliminate the dimmer to run the driver at approx 106-108% of what is stated on most B drivers data sheets. If you dont require dimming then I suggest a B driver to get the maximum from your driver, and still have the option to add a dimming pot whenever you choose.
Just my .02

I'm looking at the HLG-240H-c1400 series from meanwell and the Zhonen PF-250 series, they are basically the same specs when it comes to wattage(250W) and max V(179v).

So if I have 5 citizen 1212's that run at 36v a piece, that's 180v total, so are you saying the A version would not work since it only has 179V of output, meanwhile the B version can put out 180+ or will that 1 volt not make a difference?

I'm trying to run the 1212's at 50 watts, someone told me that's the most efficient. You know this driver stuff isn't hard, its the companies and their wild spec sheets and labeling system that are so dang confusing...

By the way, I really appreciate all the help guys
 
the b verision has 10% t0 100% dimming
the A has 40%-100% & that internal is not very well made being plastic phillps
they will break if used consonantly they r more intended as a set & forget dimmer
 
I personally consider the B drivers as "better" only because the dimming option is a choice. The A versions being built in run at 100% as to where the B versions can just cap the leads, and eliminate the dimmer to run the driver at approx 106-108% of what is stated on most B drivers data sheets. If you dont require dimming then I suggest a B driver to get the maximum from your driver, and still have the option to add a dimming pot whenever you choose.
Just my .02

Actually you will get more watts from A type driver..... I know sounds nuts but it's true. Try one some time.
 
the b verision has 10% t0 100% dimming
the A has 40%-100% & that internal is not very well made being plastic phillps
they will break if used consonantly they r more intended as a set & forget dimmer

Well I would probably only bring it down slightly for veg, I'd be careful to not overturn it. How fragile are we talking here? Eggshell?

I was just about to buy the driver from jameco and then they were sold out. Is this a continuing theme among-st you DIY builders?
 
I'm looking at the HLG-240H-c1400 series from meanwell and the Zhonen PF-250 series, they are basically the same specs when it comes to wattage(250W) and max V(179v).

So if I have 5 citizen 1212's that run at 36v a piece, that's 180v total, so are you saying the A version would not work since it only has 179V of output, meanwhile the B version can put out 180+ or will that 1 volt not make a difference?

I'm trying to run the 1212's at 50 watts, someone told me that's the most efficient. You know this driver stuff isn't hard, its the companies and their wild spec sheets and labeling system that are so dang confusing...

By the way, I really appreciate all the help guys

Both driver's will work with cree 3590 @36v because at that current the cob only uses about 35v each.i would think the same applies to the shitizen cobs as well but ask coberto after he answers my question about the thermal pads lol
 
Just got the driver from another site, was 77$ w/shipping which was actually the best I could find, Ebay and other alike were even higher.

Cobby, whats the eta on the the 120mm passive heat sinks?

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I don't need adapter for the angelinas with the BJB holders do I?
Any specifications I need to know for the 18g wiring? I had a hardware store close and everything was 50% off, I should have went and just got little stuff like that...
 
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