Al B. FAQt

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Al B. Fuct

once had a dog named
You're back! Hi Al. How are things?
Not bad, starting to catch up my work a bit.

I think I have my pathogen prob under control, thanks to your H2O2 treatment program!!! Thanks again for the help.
dynamite, great to hear it. :)

I am having to dose every other day...if I wait for the 3rd day the tank just explodes with pathogens on the second night. It seems to be working, for now. H2O2 is cheap!
You might increase your dosage rate. What you're applying isn't killing the core pathogen load. Try a one-time dose of 50% grade @ 5ml/L (8.5ml for 35%), then return to 1ml/L (or 1.7ml/L for 35%) every 3-4 days, see if it doesn't cooperate. If you're using a flood system, pour about a litre or so of the high dose soln through the tops of the plants to assure that all of the rootmass is being treated.
I am thinking of getting a dosing pump and automating this part of the op. What do you think of the Hanna dosing pumps?
Sounds like a good idea. I haven't seen the Hanna pumps. Got a link?

:confused: Is it normal for the pH to want to climb a little bit all the time? or should it stabilize and say at like 5.8 for a couple of days? My pH is always wandering up. It can be 5.8 just before a flood, but an hour after the flood it is 5.9. The pH goes up fairly consistently .1 or .2 per flood. Is that normal? Am I being repetitive?
There's a couple of causes of rising pH. Rockwool will do it as a result of some residual limestone dust in the material. This is one of the reasons that one should soak RW cubes used for cloning in a 5.0 soln for 24h and fully drain the cubes with a salad spinner before plugging stems in them.

It is not practical to presoak RW floc as it's hard to sufficiently drain the material of the presoaking soln. When I was using pots stuffed with only RW floc, a .1 rise after the 1x/day flood was the norm. I shot the pH a bit low, 5.6 usually (in the fond hope that the actual rootzone pH would be 5.8 ) and corrected tank pH down when it got over 6.0. pH is a lot more stable with my present media, Fytocell.

Another very common cause of rising pH is pathogens in the system, notably pythium and fusarium.

How you feel about pH automation? It looks a bit pricey...
Got linkage?

Any reliable automation of mundane tasks is a good thing. After all, we're stoners here and remembering to do certain tasks can be somewhat beyond us. ;)
 

Phinxter

Well-Known Member
could use a digital weekly timer to turn it on for X amount of time every 3 days and as long as the pump is set to deliver say 1.7 ml in 10 minutes and the timer is set to run the pump for 10 mins every 3 days then yer good as gold as long as the pump dont get all crazy and deliver a lethal dose or worse yet the timer fails to run the pump at all and then you got nasties in yer nutes ... dunno if i would trust my pathogen control to a timer
 

Al B. Fuct

once had a dog named
jesus, I hope the pumps work better than their website... slooooooow

They look like the right tool for the job, with chemical-resistant Teflon, Kynar & glass components. They look well made, at least the right stuff is there for good durability.

I've seen other pumps, of the peristaltic type, which are much simpler. They use a snail cam which rotates against a calibrated length of flexible tubing to measure the fluid. This sort is common in medical applications. It seems to me that a length of tubing, being the sole solution contact surface and easily replaced if needed, is going to be more reliable in the end than a collection of valves and a diaphragm.

95 squid is a lot of dough, but not outrageous. Only you can judge if automating the task has any practicality. If you're so slack that you can't be bothered with doing it between tank dumps, it may be worth doing.

When selecting the pump capacity, remember that pHDown is effective in very small quantities. You may not be able to get a pump which dispenses as little as 5-15ml/day. If that's the case, you can dilute the pHDown in a quantity of water and math out the dosage depending upon the volume of water used.
 

corral hollow kid

Well-Known Member
You might increase your dosage rate. What you're applying isn't killing the core pathogen load. Try a one-time dose of 50% grade @ 5ml/L (8.5ml for 35%), then return to 1ml/L (or 1.7ml/L for 35%) every 3-4 days, see if it doesn't cooperate. If you're using a flood system, pour about a litre or so of the high dose soln through the tops of the plants to assure that all of the rootmass is being treated.
The only thing I haven't done is to pour concentrated soln through the pellets & existing roots. I though that may kill-em-all, so to speak!

I haven't seen the Hanna pumps. Got a link?
After all, we're stoners here and remembering to do certian tasks can be somewhat beyond us. ;)
I had links but forgot to put them in...damn!:wall:

HANNA Instruments Dosing Pump, w/ Timer

and

HANNA BL 7916 pH Controller + Dosing Pump, BL7916

The dosing pump is doable...the pH controller is actually not too bad, but out of reach at the moment - if you know what I mean!:sad:


There's a couple of causes of rising pH. Rockwool will do it as a result of some residual limestone dust in the material. This is one of the reasons that one should soak RW cubes used for cloning in a 5.0 soln for 24h and fully drain the cubes with a salad spinner before plugging stems in them.
Next time I'll soak em, not just "dip" em!

It is not practical to presoak RW floc as it's hard to sufficiently drain the material of the presoaking soln. When I was using pots stuffed with only RW floc, a .1 rise after the 1x/day flood was the norm. I shot the pH a bit low, 5.6 usually (in the fond hope that the actual rootzone pH would be 5.8 ) and corrected tank pH down when it got over 6.0. pH is a lot more stable with my present media, Fytocell.
I don't use floc. I root seedlings in 1.5" cubes, then place them in 5" net baskets, in Hydroton pellets. The 5" baskets are put in 2gal flood buckets w/pellets. I too have been shooting low (5.5-5.7), and now that the cubes are up out of the flood zone, the plants are improving every day. The pH still keeps climbing, though....

Another very common cause of rising pH is pathogens in the system, notably pythium and fusarium.
I figured that's what the primary source of the rise is...but can't seem to kill that crap off no matter how much I clean, or concentrate the H2O2 soln.

On 9-15 I (again) drained and cleaned out my hydro system. Added approx 135L H2O, than I added 1000ml H2O2. I left the plants out of the system overnight, and I let the system flood every 2 hours until 0600. Then I added another 250ml H2O2, waited 20 min, added nutes, and let the system sit for another 2hours. At about 1100 I corrected pH to 5.8 and at 1200 I began flooding the system @2hour intervals until 2200 hours, lights out at 0 hour.

After I added the H2O2 to the water that came out of my tap, the soln sounded like I had poured a glass of soda. Is that normal? The soln actually gets milky before it gets clear. The milky look appears to be oxygen being released into the water...maybe consuming pathogens in the spring water? Could we have a huge pathogen load in the water here that I am having a problem overcoming? That's why I let it sit in a concentrated soln overnight before doing anything else, hoping to kill off the pathogens.

Thanks Al!
 

Al B. Fuct

once had a dog named
love the dosing idea, but wouldn't we need some monitoring device that controlled the doser? and what?
The Hanna pump has a flow rate control, but you're right, it seems like a timer may be needed in some cases. They are rather slow, perhaps accurate down to 500ml/day in constant operation from what I see. Wouldn't be too hard to have a timer run it for 6h to get a 125ml dose.

or worse yet the timer fails to run the pump at all and then you got nasties in yer nutes ... dunno if i would trust my pathogen control to a timer
yep, that's the most likely failure scenario. Good quality digital timers are your best hope as they don't forget when to do stuff if there's been a power outage. However, I've had bad copies of otherwise long relied-upon digital timers.
 

corral hollow kid

Well-Known Member
could use a digital weekly timer to turn it on for X amount of time every 3 days and as long as the pump is set to deliver say 1.7 ml in 10 minutes and the timer is set to run the pump for 10 mins every 3 days then yer good as gold as long as the pump dont get all crazy and deliver a lethal dose or worse yet the timer fails to run the pump at all and then you got nasties in yer nutes ... dunno if i would trust my pathogen control to a timer
One of the dose pumps has a timer built into it. HANNA Instruments Dosing Pump, w/ Timer

jesus, I hope the pumps work better than their website... slooooooow
yes...that website is SLOWWWW!!!

I've seen other pumps, of the peristaltic type, which are much simpler. They use a snail cam which rotates against a calibrated length of flexible tubing to measure the fluid. This sort is common in medical applications. It seems to me that a length of tubing, being the sole solution contact surface and easily replaced if needed, is going to be more reliable in the end than a collection of valves and a diaphragm.
Here are some of those peristaltic pumps:

Rola-Chem Chemical Feed Pumps
Stenner Peristaltic Metering Pumps

I think it would just be a math equation to figure out how long to run the pump to put 250ml H2O2 into the soln, then just pgm a digi timer for every other day, or so.

If you're so slack that you can't be bothered with doing it between tank dumps, it may be worth doing.
yeah. I'm a stoner, slacker. AND this would simplify my life. Now I need $250.00 for the pump and $25.00 for a digi timer.:-P

When selecting the pump capacity, remember that pHDown is effective in very small quantities. You may not be able to get a pump which dispenses as little as 5-15ml/day. If that's the case, you can dilute the pHDown in a quantity of water and math out the dosage depending upon the volume of water used.
I would not try and do this on a simple
"daily" dose. I would pop the $$$ for the digi ph meter/dose pump setup.
HANNA BL 7917 ORP Controller + Dosing Pump, BL7917 I know first hand what a pH error does, and how long it takes to recover from!!!

Thanks Al. I'll fade back into the woodwork until I get into another pickle!

:weed:
 

Al B. Fuct

once had a dog named
The dosing pump is doable...the pH controller is actually not too bad, but out of reach at the moment - if you know what I mean!:sad:
yeah, $760 is way fat cash.

Next time I'll soak em, not just "dip" em!
Yep, and make sure to drain that 5.0 soln fully. The soln you drain from the cubes will probably be 5.8-6.0.

I don't use floc. I root seedlings in 1.5" cubes, then place them in 5" net baskets, in Hydroton pellets. The 5" baskets are put in 2gal flood buckets w/pellets. I too have been shooting low (5.5-5.7), and now that the cubes are up out of the flood zone, the plants are improving every day. The pH still keeps climbing, though....
If in pellets, which are pretty pH neutral/unreactive, I would not shoot low.

After I added the H2O2 to the water that came out of my tap, the soln sounded like I had poured a glass of soda. Is that normal?
No, it's not normal.

The soln actually gets milky before it gets clear. The milky look appears to be oxygen being released into the water...maybe consuming pathogens in the spring water? Could we have a huge pathogen load in the water here that I am having a problem overcoming?
yeah, I think you're on to something. Spring water? Does your tapwater come from a bore/well instead of a municipal water treatment plant?

If you see fizzing when adding H2O2 to plain water, it is reacting with organic molecules and as you suspect, breaking down and releasing its oxygen. There may be enough organic matter in the water to fully consume the H2O2 before it ever gets to your plants.

If you're on a bore, you should look into a water quality analysis. I don't think I'd drink this stuff until I knew more about what is really in it.
 

corral hollow kid

Well-Known Member
yeah, $760 is way fat cash.
way fat. but doable if it saves my crop cuz I'm a lazy bastard!

Yep, and make sure to drain that 5.0 soln fully. The soln you drain from the cubes will probably be 5.8-6.0.
OK. Will Do. Salad spinner, eh?

If in pellets, which are pretty pH neutral/unreactive, I would not shoot low.
OK. Will Stop Doing.

No, it's not normal.
dammit!

yeah, I think you're on to something. Spring water? Does your tapwater come from a bore/well instead of a municipal water treatment plant?
no, our subdivision actually taps a natural spring and feeds a holding tank, then it's fed to the house. no treatment. no chlorine. nothing but water, and evidently a bunch of other stuff too!!!

If you see fizzing when adding H2O2 to plain water, it is reacting with organic molecules and as you suspect, breaking down and releasing its oxygen. There may be enough organic matter in the water to fully consume the H2O2 before it ever gets to your plants.
again, dammit!

If you're on a bore, you should look into a water quality analysis. I don't think I'd drink this stuff until I knew more about what is really in it.
I haven't been drinking it for years. all bottled water.

Thanks for your time and input, Al. I'll keep fighting with this and I'll let you know if I can find the last water analysis report.

Keep the faith!

:peace:
 

holmes

Well-Known Member
You might have answered this question already al, can you tell me what you think of light movers?, have you used them?
and cool tubes, only worth if your using a 1000 watt bulb?
 

Al B. Fuct

once had a dog named
Salad spinner, eh?
yep, cheap & easy way to remove almost all the soaking soln.

no, our subdivision actually taps a natural spring and feeds a holding tank, then it's fed to the house. no treatment. no chlorine. nothing but water, and evidently a bunch of other stuff too!!!
Eeek. I can tell you right now that there's a colony of pathogens in that holding tank.

I haven't been drinking it for years. all bottled water.
Good move.

Thanks for your time and input, Al. I'll keep fighting with this and I'll let you know if I can find the last water analysis report.
That'd be a lot better for you to know than me, but I'm still curious to know what's in the stuff.

Naturally, my H2O2 dosage figures presume that the make-up water is clean and pathogen free. If you have to do the water treatment plant's job for them, you're going to have to raise the H2O2 application rate and probably dramatically.

I'd start with a litre of water and add 5ml of H2O2, mix it & wait until it stops fizzing. Then add 5ml more and see if it fizzes again. Keep going until you get no more fizz. Then you know how much H2O2 per litre to use to at very least have pathogen free water to start from.

I have this suspicion that your bore water is re-infecting your grow every time you get it sterilised.

Keep the faith!
Hell of a thing to say to an atheist. :D
 

Al B. Fuct

once had a dog named
You might have answered this question already al, can you tell me what you think of light movers?, have you used them?
I've commented previously on light movers to a person who asked about building one:

Al B. Fuct said:
Light movers are not a good thing, anyway. It's better to have a stationary lamp that suits the size of the space you're trying to light rather than trying to spread light out over an area that is really too large for that particular lamp.

With movers, you have a new figure to contemplate; lux-hours (lumens per sq metre per hour). When a mover has the lamp over one end of the grow, it's not over the other. You have to derate the amount of light the plants are getting owing to the mover having the light elsewhere for a certain amount of time.

Linear light movers also do not distribute light evenly. Plants in the middle of the traverse get more light than plants on the ends. Rotary light movers don't have this problem, but they do need 'slipper ring' connections to conduct electricity to the lamp from the ballast, which can be troublesome.

Also, light movers are mechanically complex. I'm pretty handy with electronics and welding/metalwork and even I would not attempt to DIY one.
and cool tubes, only worth if your using a 1000 watt bulb?
Cooltubes are useful in any op with HID lighting of any size. They forcibly cool the lamp and keep that cooling air separate from the grow room airmass, making temps much more controllable and steady.
 

corral hollow kid

Well-Known Member
Hell of a thing to say to an atheist. :D
I was thinking :leaf: kinda faith...no offense meant.

Thanks again for all your help...time, etc.

I'll follow your suggestions about water treatment, and I've been considering getting a second 200L holding tank so I can pre-treat and hold a decent quantity of H2O. I cut my res qty back from 140L to 100L. I want to see if trying to control a smaller qty of H2O makes any difference...I usually want more H2O, but in this case it may help.

:clap:
 

Al B. Fuct

once had a dog named
I was thinking :leaf: kinda faith...no offense meant.
none taken. ;)

Thanks again for all your help...time, etc.
no worries :)

I'll follow your suggestions about water treatment, and I've been considering getting a second 200L holding tank so I can pre-treat and hold a decent quantity of H2O.
Probably a good idea, all things considered.

I cut my res qty back from 140L to 100L. I want to see if trying to control a smaller qty of H2O makes any difference...
Nope, the volume won't make any diff. If you can't control pathogens in a 140L tank, you'll have no more luck with 100L.
 

grandpabear3

New Member
al these beauties are about 3 weeks away from being ready. and they are indeed all thanks to you. just wanted to share with you what you helped me create. thank you

 
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