Please help me diagnose my Tahoe og.

[chemphlegm]

Fox farm are shitty nutrients? I'm not using fox farm. I'm using sensi bloom. Are you saying sensi bloom is shit? I will agree that Advanced sucks as a company and their gear is way expensive, but aside from that, they're great nutes. Their base nutes kicks ass. Anybody being honest with themselves will admit it. If advanced was the same price as botanicare, Advanced would be #1. Great product, shitty company with shitty ethics.

nah, whenever I see issues......I often see fox farms is all. I have no personal issue with them or Advanced. both are fine nutrients that do a swell job when used by me

 

[Runbho]

I think promix has some fert in it and I know for that FF ocean forest does too. I think you've over done it on the ferts, the bloom in particular. I think your leaves are yellowing because of high phosphorus which is poisoning them. You don't need to fert so much in soil, especially if your soil has fert in it already. You could probably just use FF for an entire grow after the plants are about 10 inches tall without ferting, because that's what it's made for. The light warrior soil is made for small plants. They grow up some, then you transplant into ocean forest and just give water. People are always adding more fert to ocean forest but the reason why you buy this soil to begin with is because it has fert in it. If you search the web, you'll see words on ocean forest that say: "Ocean forest organic soil is ready to use right out of the bag," and this: "Ocean forest organic potting soil possesses everything in one bag." It doesn't say add more fertilizer." You see what I mean?
Diluting with promix might be a good idea, but adding so much fert later probably isn't a good idea. We see a lot of this, where growers keep adding more fert to FF soil because they're under the impression that this needs to be done, but it just isn't the case. So for these plants, I would just water when the soil is dry until you get a small amount of runoff and let it be and see how things go. Maybe consider transplanting if you want, but at 3 weeks flower, you seem to have more than enough fert in the soil now. It's easy to confuse yellowing leaves with a lack of nurtrients, but over ferting will cause the same thing - as the leaves die, they turn yellow.

Hey bud. I just wanted to let you know that you were probably most accurate in your diagnosis. So thank you for your help. I def appreciate it. I checked my runoff. PH is perfect and in point. EC averaged 2.6-2.7 on most my plants. Pretty crazy for only 3 feedings. Upon discussing this issue with another friend and exploring possibilities, we decided to look into the effects of low RH. We believe that due to it being winter as well as the lights and heater running and drying everything out excessively, is that it's causing the plants to drink more water that nutes, spiking the ec ever so slightly. We believe this is overfert due to low RH. Raising it to 40% should fix the issue. That's for your help man. You were spot on!

 

[polishpollack]

I never said anything about RH.
If your runoff pH seems high (and it looks to be), it's because you've added fert to soil that already has fert.
Water will evaporate out of soil when temp is high. This is why potted plants outdoors in hot weather need a lot of water.
Don't assume that plants take up more water than nutrients. This might not be the case.

 

[chemphlegm]

I'm not using fox farm. .

yes you are
"MEDIUM: promix hp mixed with ffof"

ding ding ding,

nutrient burn is nutrient burn. I never saw raising the humidity fix a pot of hot nutrients

 

[polishpollack]

Runbho was referring to the additional nutes being used, not the soil brand.

 

[chemphlegm]

Runbho was referring to the additional nutes being used, not the soil brand.

right I know, as you know that the Fox Farm soil brand contains fertilizers, enough to throw many growers here into to a similar frenzy aye?

like, if my soil contained calcium, and I added more calcium for a calcium toxicity, I could not honestly state that I didnt use too much calcium because I dont use calcium(inaccurate, because it comes in my soil already right?)

 

[Dr.Nick Riviera]

right I know, as you know that the Fox Farm soil brand contains fertilizers, enough to throw many growers here into to a similar frenzy aye?

like, if my soil contained calcium, and I added more calcium for a calcium toxicity, I could not honestly state that I didnt use too much calcium because I dont use calcium(inaccurate, because it comes in my soil already right?)

He DID state that he was using cal/mag with every watering.

 

[Runbho]

I never said anything about RH.
If your runoff pH seems high (and it looks to be), it's because you've added fert to soil that already has fert.
Water will evaporate out of soil when temp is high. This is why potted plants outdoors in hot weather need a lot of water.
Don't assume that plants take up more water than nutrients. This might not be the case.

I'm beginning to believe maybe I'm not cut out for soil. My hydro plants have far less issues. So, apparently ec runoff in soil is meaningless and PH is the only thing you really check. You can't get an accurate reading checking ec of soil runoff. Any soil grower reading this can test this for themselves. I guarantee your runoff ec will be off the charts. I tested the runoff on my healthiest plants vs the least healthy and it was slightly higher on my healthier plant.

In summary, my Tahoe ec runoff was 2.7ec and it was HUNGRY! It was NOT a deficiency. They are just really heavy feeders in flower. I gave a heavy watering 3 days after feeding 800ppm, and 3 days after the water, my plants started showing tell tale signs of potassium deficiency. I've started feeding more and things are slowly but surely getting better. Ugh. Soil is a pain in the ass but oh so good

 

[Runbho]

yes you are
"MEDIUM: promix hp mixed with ffof"

ding ding ding,

nutrient burn is nutrient burn. I never saw raising the humidity fix a pot of hot nutrients

I suspected the super low humidity was drying the pots out faster. When that happens, the plants consumer water at an accelerated speed leaving unused salts left behind in the medium. Potentially causing salt build up and nute lock out. In my case, I was underfeeding. The reason my tahoes were struggling vs the others is because they're some seriously heavy feeders

 

[Runbho]

I'm sticking with promix from now on. Inert media is much easier to work with. As a complete noob, I get it. But, for me, prenuted soil became more difficult the more I learn.

 

[Runbho]

yes you are
"MEDIUM: promix hp mixed with ffof"

ding ding ding,

nutrient burn is nutrient burn. I never saw raising the humidity fix a pot of hot nutrients

There was never any indication of "nutrient burn" either. That's why this issue was so frustrating to me. Just yellowing fan leaves. These girls grow so aggressively, they have high nute demands. I should've known better. They are the biggest plants in the garden maturing the fastest. It makes sense they'd have more requirements

 

[Jerro]

There was never any indication of "nutrient burn" either. That's why this issue was so frustrating to me. Just yellowing fan leaves. These girls grow so aggressively, they have high nute demands. I should've known better. They are the biggest plants in the garden maturing the fastest. It makes sense they'd have more requirements

So it

There was never any indication of "nutrient burn" either. That's why this issue was so frustrating to me. Just yellowing fan leaves. These girls grow so aggressively, they have high nute demands. I should've known better. They are the biggest plants in the garden maturing the fastest. It makes sense they'd have more requirements

yeah that's what I was thinking honestly, but I'm a Hydro dude and never grown with soil so I didn't want to argue, but I have over fed and they get burned tips and the color is totally different I mean you can tell right off the bat you over fed. Anyways glad you figured it brother!

 

[polishpollack]

Use the type that suits you best. But soil is actually easier, but the problem is that when you have too much fert in soil, you can't get it out. With hydro, to get out excess fert you just dump the water mix and start over.

 

[Runbho]

Use the type that suits you best. But soil is actually easier, but the problem is that when you have too much fert in soil, you can't get it out. With hydro, to get out excess fert you just dump the water mix and start over.

Thanks guys! Can't even tell you how much i appreciate everybody's help. I'm telling you I'd be lost without it. And to be honest, people disagree but I think staking my plants at week three might have damaged some roots and contributed.
Anyway, just bought the Titan flo n gro 12 site ebb and flo style system. I prefer medicating with soil grown. But, I honestly really enjoy growing much more when doing hydro. I think I may switch my room to hydro for my patients and do a 6x6 soil grow for myself! Hope you all are having a good night!

 

[chemphlegm]

I'm beginning to believe maybe I'm not cut out for soil. My hydro plants have far less issues. So, apparently ec runoff in soil is meaningless and PH is the only thing you really check. You can't get an accurate reading checking ec of soil runoff. Any soil grower reading this can test this for themselves. I guarantee your runoff ec will be off the charts. I tested the runoff on my healthiest plants vs the least healthy and it was slightly higher on my healthier plant.

In summary, my Tahoe ec runoff was 2.7ec and it was HUNGRY! It was NOT a deficiency. They are just really heavy feeders in flower. I gave a heavy watering 3 days after feeding 800ppm, and 3 days after the water, my plants started showing tell tale signs of potassium deficiency. I've started feeding more and things are slowly but surely getting better. Ugh. Soil is a pain in the ass but oh so good

ill plants with a nutrient lockout would have strong run off too, as well as showing a deficiency for the lock out aye?
this is one reason I begin my grow with the only ferts in the mix are the ones I put there, never a lock out, never a deficiency.
I grow tahoe also, she doesnt feed heavily, at least not heavier than any other plant in the garden. You have to understand that just because a plant can handle strong nutrients, stronger than whats necessary for proper growth, does not mean she will show deficiencies when fed normally. It not about fiding out how high the ppms can be fed for best experience.

I feed my tahoe plain water for 30 days of end flower with no issues in my soil, I hope your issues get fixed, could be a damaged/infected plant too, dont let that chase you from soil, it is the best!

 

[Runbho]

ill plants with a nutrient lockout would have strong run off too, as well as showing a deficiency for the lock out aye?
this is one reason I begin my grow with the only ferts in the mix are the ones I put there, never a lock out, never a deficiency.
I grow tahoe also, she doesnt feed heavily, at least not heavier than any other plant in the garden. You have to understand that just because a plant can handle strong nutrients, stronger than whats necessary for proper growth, does not mean she will show deficiencies when fed normally. It not about fiding out how high the ppms can be fed for best experience.

I feed my tahoe plain water for 30 days of end flower with no issues in my soil, I hope your issues get fixed, could be a damaged/infected plant too, dont let that chase you from soil, it is the best!

I dig it. Thanks bro. But, in order for lock out to occur, doesn't ph have to be off? Isn't it the ph being out of range that prevents nutrients from being used by the plant? That's what's weird. My PH is in point. My Tahoe is unfortunately not the clone only. They're from seed by Cali connection. The only reason I even determined it was a heavy feeder was due to it showing deficiencies. The only reason I even know it can handle a stronger nutrients is because she's unhappy and showing deficiencies if I don't. So in essence, if she wasn't sick and showing deficiencies i wouldn't even know it could handle stronger nutes. I think I'll be happier with proven genetics rather than seeds. So much unstable shit out there.

 

[Runbho]

ill plants with a nutrient lockout would have strong run off too, as well as showing a deficiency for the lock out aye?
this is one reason I begin my grow with the only ferts in the mix are the ones I put there, never a lock out, never a deficiency.
I grow tahoe also, she doesnt feed heavily, at least not heavier than any other plant in the garden. You have to understand that just because a plant can handle strong nutrients, stronger than whats necessary for proper growth, does not mean she will show deficiencies when fed normally. It not about fiding out how high the ppms can be fed for best experience.

I feed my tahoe plain water for 30 days of end flower with no issues in my soil, I hope your issues get fixed, could be a damaged/infected plant too, dont let that chase you from soil, it is the best!

30 days without food is crazy. I went 9 days without feeding my glue cross and I'm already getting purpling on the leaves showing a pretty heavy phosphorous deficiency. Maybe I have really heavy feeders or my lighting is just super intense.
Oh, and my glue cross became deficient merely by giving a mildly heavy watering after a feeding. Literally I fed 850ppm, 3 days later water only, and 3 days later I have deficiencies. AND, when I watered and checked the run off it was nearly 3.0ec. Which is why I ran a little extra water through it and brought the run off ec down a bit. The point is trying to make is runoff ec is meaningless. According to my runoff my plant was overfed (or so I figured) but it wasn't. It was hungry. I've seen YouTube videos of soil growers getting 4.0+ ec from their runoff. Leaves me wondering what ec runoff equates to a plant being properly fed. Because in my case, 2.7ec runoff equaled a hungry, deficient plant.

 

[chemphlegm]

I grow organic, in dirt, 30 days without additives is normal considering my soil build, experience. a couple days of water only in my hydro and losses occur I agree.
And far out to the seed form tahoe, thats maybe my most memorable , the longest stay in the garden actually, then medicine man, both still are stars

 

[Runbho]

ill plants with a nutrient lockout would have strong run off too, as well as showing a deficiency for the lock out aye?
this is one reason I begin my grow with the only ferts in the mix are the ones I put there, never a lock out, never a deficiency.
I grow tahoe also, she doesnt feed heavily, at least not heavier than any other plant in the garden. You have to understand that just because a plant can handle strong nutrients, stronger than whats necessary for proper growth, does not mean she will show deficiencies when fed normally. It not about fiding out how high the ppms can be fed for best experience.

I feed my tahoe plain water for 30 days of end flower with no issues in my soil, I hope your issues get fixed, could be a damaged/infected plant too, dont let that chase you from soil, it is the best!

Thanks bud. I don't think I can ever give up soil, but anything more than a few plants becomes quite a chore. I don't know what to think regarding this Tahoe. One thing for sure is that all 3 pheno's are fantastic but #1 and #2 are ridiculous. Whatever was going on didn't affect quality by any means

I grow organic, in dirt, 30 days without additives is normal considering my soil build, experience. a couple days of water only in my hydro and losses occur I agree.
And far out to the seed form tahoe, thats maybe my most memorable , the longest stay in the garden actually, then medicine man, both still are stars

Ive always wanted to do a 100% organic run. Like super soil or something. I've always been curious to know just how much better it really is in a side by side test. Sounds like my next experiment. Would have to be super soil though cause I wouldn't want to have to mix separate nutes for that one plant.
And shout out to whoever it is thsts breeding genetics at Cali connection and to whoever created the Tahoe. I don't have too too much experience with seeds, but out of 15-16 different genetics from multiple breeders, this is prob in the top 2. Crazy impressive. Nice work whoever you are. Very well done.

 

[Arez]

Runbho Hey mate i found this Quick Deficiency Guide

Nitrogen: Entire plant is light green in color; lower leaves are yellow; growth is stunted....

Phosphorous: Entire plant is bluish-green, often developing a red or purpleish cast; lower leaves may be yellow, drying to a greenish-brown to black color; growth may be stunted...

Potassium: Leaves have a papery appearance; dead areas along the edges of leaves; growth is stunted...

Magnesium: Lower leaves turn yellow along the tips and margin and between the veins; the lower leaves wilt...

Calcium: Young stems and new leaves die...

Zinc: Leaf tissue between the veins is lighter in color; yellowed; papery in appearance...

Iron: Leaf tissue appears yellow, while the veins remain green...

Copper: Leaf edges appear dark green or blue; leaf edges curl upward; young leaves permanently wilt...

Sulfur: Young leaves turn pale green, while the older leaves remain green; plant is stunted and spindly...

Mananese: Growth is stunted; lower leaves have a checkered pattern of yellow and green...

Molybdenum: Leaves are stunted, pale green, and malformed...

Boron: Young leaves are scorched at tips and margins...

here on our forums hope it helps