Please help me diagnose my Tahoe og.

Runbho said:

Fox farm are shitty nutrients? I'm not using fox farm. I'm using sensi bloom. Are you saying sensi bloom is shit? I will agree that Advanced sucks as a company and their gear is way expensive, but aside from that, they're great nutes. Their base nutes kicks ass. Anybody being honest with themselves will admit it. If advanced was the same price as botanicare, Advanced would be #1. Great product, shitty company with shitty ethics.

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polishpollack said:

I think promix has some fert in it and I know for that FF ocean forest does too. I think you've over done it on the ferts, the bloom in particular. I think your leaves are yellowing because of high phosphorus which is poisoning them. You don't need to fert so much in soil, especially if your soil has fert in it already. You could probably just use FF for an entire grow after the plants are about 10 inches tall without ferting, because that's what it's made for. The light warrior soil is made for small plants. They grow up some, then you transplant into ocean forest and just give water. People are always adding more fert to ocean forest but the reason why you buy this soil to begin with is because it has fert in it. If you search the web, you'll see words on ocean forest that say: "Ocean forest organic soil is ready to use right out of the bag," and this: "Ocean forest organic potting soil possesses everything in one bag." It doesn't say add more fertilizer." You see what I mean?
Diluting with promix might be a good idea, but adding so much fert later probably isn't a good idea. We see a lot of this, where growers keep adding more fert to FF soil because they're under the impression that this needs to be done, but it just isn't the case. So for these plants, I would just water when the soil is dry until you get a small amount of runoff and let it be and see how things go. Maybe consider transplanting if you want, but at 3 weeks flower, you seem to have more than enough fert in the soil now. It's easy to confuse yellowing leaves with a lack of nurtrients, but over ferting will cause the same thing - as the leaves die, they turn yellow.

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Runbho said:

I'm not using fox farm. .

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polishpollack said:

Runbho was referring to the additional nutes being used, not the soil brand.

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chemphlegm said:

right I know, as you know that the Fox Farm soil brand contains fertilizers, enough to throw many growers here into to a similar frenzy aye?

like, if my soil contained calcium, and I added more calcium for a calcium toxicity, I could not honestly state that I didnt use too much calcium because I dont use calcium(inaccurate, because it comes in my soil already right?)

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polishpollack said:

I never said anything about RH.
If your runoff pH seems high (and it looks to be), it's because you've added fert to soil that already has fert.
Water will evaporate out of soil when temp is high. This is why potted plants outdoors in hot weather need a lot of water.
Don't assume that plants take up more water than nutrients. This might not be the case.

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chemphlegm said:

yes you are
"MEDIUM: promix hp mixed with ffof"

ding ding ding,

nutrient burn is nutrient burn. I never saw raising the humidity fix a pot of hot nutrients

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chemphlegm said:

yes you are
"MEDIUM: promix hp mixed with ffof"

ding ding ding,

nutrient burn is nutrient burn. I never saw raising the humidity fix a pot of hot nutrients

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Runbho said:

There was never any indication of "nutrient burn" either. That's why this issue was so frustrating to me. Just yellowing fan leaves. These girls grow so aggressively, they have high nute demands. I should've known better. They are the biggest plants in the garden maturing the fastest. It makes sense they'd have more requirements

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Runbho said:

There was never any indication of "nutrient burn" either. That's why this issue was so frustrating to me. Just yellowing fan leaves. These girls grow so aggressively, they have high nute demands. I should've known better. They are the biggest plants in the garden maturing the fastest. It makes sense they'd have more requirements

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polishpollack said:

Use the type that suits you best. But soil is actually easier, but the problem is that when you have too much fert in soil, you can't get it out. With hydro, to get out excess fert you just dump the water mix and start over.

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Runbho said:

I'm beginning to believe maybe I'm not cut out for soil. My hydro plants have far less issues. So, apparently ec runoff in soil is meaningless and PH is the only thing you really check. You can't get an accurate reading checking ec of soil runoff. Any soil grower reading this can test this for themselves. I guarantee your runoff ec will be off the charts. I tested the runoff on my healthiest plants vs the least healthy and it was slightly higher on my healthier plant.

In summary, my Tahoe ec runoff was 2.7ec and it was HUNGRY! It was NOT a deficiency. They are just really heavy feeders in flower. I gave a heavy watering 3 days after feeding 800ppm, and 3 days after the water, my plants started showing tell tale signs of potassium deficiency. I've started feeding more and things are slowly but surely getting better. Ugh. Soil is a pain in the ass but oh so good

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chemphlegm said:

ill plants with a nutrient lockout would have strong run off too, as well as showing a deficiency for the lock out aye?
this is one reason I begin my grow with the only ferts in the mix are the ones I put there, never a lock out, never a deficiency.
I grow tahoe also, she doesnt feed heavily, at least not heavier than any other plant in the garden. You have to understand that just because a plant can handle strong nutrients, stronger than whats necessary for proper growth, does not mean she will show deficiencies when fed normally. It not about fiding out how high the ppms can be fed for best experience.

I feed my tahoe plain water for 30 days of end flower with no issues in my soil, I hope your issues get fixed, could be a damaged/infected plant too, dont let that chase you from soil, it is the best!

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chemphlegm said:

ill plants with a nutrient lockout would have strong run off too, as well as showing a deficiency for the lock out aye?
this is one reason I begin my grow with the only ferts in the mix are the ones I put there, never a lock out, never a deficiency.
I grow tahoe also, she doesnt feed heavily, at least not heavier than any other plant in the garden. You have to understand that just because a plant can handle strong nutrients, stronger than whats necessary for proper growth, does not mean she will show deficiencies when fed normally. It not about fiding out how high the ppms can be fed for best experience.

I feed my tahoe plain water for 30 days of end flower with no issues in my soil, I hope your issues get fixed, could be a damaged/infected plant too, dont let that chase you from soil, it is the best!

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chemphlegm said:

ill plants with a nutrient lockout would have strong run off too, as well as showing a deficiency for the lock out aye?
this is one reason I begin my grow with the only ferts in the mix are the ones I put there, never a lock out, never a deficiency.
I grow tahoe also, she doesnt feed heavily, at least not heavier than any other plant in the garden. You have to understand that just because a plant can handle strong nutrients, stronger than whats necessary for proper growth, does not mean she will show deficiencies when fed normally. It not about fiding out how high the ppms can be fed for best experience.

I feed my tahoe plain water for 30 days of end flower with no issues in my soil, I hope your issues get fixed, could be a damaged/infected plant too, dont let that chase you from soil, it is the best!

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chemphlegm said:

I grow organic, in dirt, 30 days without additives is normal considering my soil build, experience. a couple days of water only in my hydro and losses occur I agree.
And far out to the seed form tahoe, thats maybe my most memorable , the longest stay in the garden actually, then medicine man, both still are stars

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