to sink 0,6KW of heat energy - you need to vaporize 1Li haven't done any of the math
yeah i agree on that, i remember the first time i had the return line above the water line, so the flow would sorta splash in the container creating small air bubbles to move around the water at the surface level. That container was actually 15 gallon trash bin.Another option is to drop the return water back into your garbage can from a height of a foot or two. This will also encourage evaporative cooling..
Drilled blind; didn't go all the way thru the material.@DIY-HP-LED , @mahiluana , @ttystikk How have you all gone about attaching cobs to the cooling bar?? I'm brainstorming a method that won't require glue... some kind of bracket perhaps? What are the methods available?
How have you all gone about attaching cobs to the cooling bar??
Do you ask about the watercooled lens - or do you ask for Coolmac lamp build ?anything like this machined or built
Not really much available that wont take excessive time and/or money. 2 part epoxy is cheap and easy to apply. Mix together and apply all around the edges of the cob to the heatsink. You could lift the entire Assembly by the cob and it would hold up. Just make sure the cobs you have on there are the ones you want because it will take some work to get them back off.@DIY-HP-LED , @mahiluana , @ttystikk How have you all gone about attaching cobs to the cooling bar?? I'm brainstorming a method that won't require glue... some kind of bracket perhaps? What are the methods available?
The chip and your heatsink can get destroyed easily.it will take some work to get them back off.
I'm definitely interested in methods that might take a little extra time and effort.. Especially if it will keep the setup somewhat modular and not require cleaning of the cobs and cooling blocks. I've seen the website big blue saw, and the idea of custom fabricating something seems fun. It couldn't be that hard to configure some sort of bracket that would go over an ideal cob holder style chip holder. So it would be cooling block, TIM pad, cob, holder, extra bracket. If you were using rectangular tubing, it would really only need to be a couple pieces of metal with some screw holes which could clamp on both sides of the tubing.. Maybe put some soft rubber or foam to keep the cob holder in place against the bracket.Not really much available that wont take excessive time and/or money. 2 part epoxy is cheap and easy to apply. Mix together and apply all around the edges of the cob to the heatsink. You could lift the entire Assembly by the cob and it would hold up. Just make sure the cobs you have on there are the ones you want because it will take some work to get them back off.
That would be a mighty impressive cooling setup. I had to look it up Absolute Freezing Point of Water <--link
I may not bother testing the adhesive, I tested some paste of the same brand (Stars) and the cob was about 10°C higher than with Arctic MX-4. I tested by running the cob on a CPU water block with stable water temperature and measured voltage, works very well. Lapping the anodized and machined surface of the water block had zero effect! I plan to test that again. I'll do more testing if my new pump ever arrives.I'll soon be testing this "thermal plaster"... http://www.ebay.com/itm/Heatsink-Thermal-Conductive-Adhesive-Compound-Glue-Viscous-Plaster-GPU-PC-/302258277735?hash=item465fff4d67:g:VRIAAOxyaURThZk1