PicklesRus
Well-Known Member
Is that what you're thinking for the EB strips?
Bridgelux EB Series Build
- Thread starter brahbbyB
- Start date
Abiqua
Well-Known Member
yep...on the latter.......but in the case of 25+ volts times two, there are 54v versions of some of the meanwells.
constant voltage drivers are just another option...sometimes they are a little cheaper than CC drivers, same quality
Abiqua
Well-Known Member
yes definitely ground to the bare metal case...that will kill your house breaker if for some reason a live wire happens to touch the case or anything metal attached to the case, rather than zapping you...i uxse gfci plugs good insurance...
@caretak3r used little neodynium magnets.search threads from name...good cheap option... but kapton is to led as duct tape is to a Vw...handy as fuck in a pinch if you ever need it and lasts 4ever...its rockstar handy
I got a bunch of MW hlg 185h 48volt drivers. I want to build 2x4's with either Eb's or sammy strips. I want to use a 2x4 aluminum sheet to mount them on with a 250mm case fan for cooling. There would be a driver on each end , dimmed to 160 for a total of 320 watts. I would rather use the samsung strips but the EB's are cheaper and probably easier to cool. I want to run these pretty soft.
Abiqua
Well-Known Member
running soft can get you 170 lm/watt on Ebs which is less than 10% in output and half the price of Sams...i like your idea......
and the 4ft Eb's are 48 volt so I don't have to buy any driversrunning soft can get you 170 lm/watt on Ebs which is less than 10% in output and half the price of Sams...i like your idea......
PicklesRus
Well-Known Member
PicklesRus
Well-Known Member
Ah, nice 
Is this going to be too much light to start clones in? I guess I will find out
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PicklesRus
Well-Known Member
Grounded now. I'll install a gfci on my tent circuit.yes definitely ground to the bare metal case...that will kill your house breaker if for some reason a live wire happens to touch the case or anything metal attached to the case, rather than zapping you...i uxse gfci plugs good insurance...
@caretak3r used little neodynium magnets.search threads from name...good cheap option... but kapton is to led as duct tape is to a Vw...handy as fuck in a pinch if you ever need it and lasts 4ever...its rockstar handy
Danielson999
Well-Known Member
Have you measured the difference in umols with and without the cover on the light? I have that same brand tent but in a 6'x4' size. I think I'll get a 2'x4' for veg in the near future.
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BuddyColas
Well-Known Member
So how many umols down at the clone level?View attachment 3917032 Ah, nice
Is this going to be too much light to start clones in? I guess I will find out
PicklesRus
Well-Known Member
BuddyColas
Well-Known Member
Sweet...pics and everything! I bet with the strips and diffuser the readings will be very even. I am thinking 350 umols is not to much for clones. It will be interesting to see how they respond.
PicklesRus
Well-Known Member
No I haven't but I can
PicklesRus
Well-Known Member
Buddy said when clones are first cut and set in cubes a t5 or t8 is even too much light. He recommends starting with a t12 then moving to a t8 once they've been hardened out of the prop tray and transplanted into cups...
I'm thinking if I have to rig something up on the tent to shade the light or maybe make a cloning station with some 1 foot strips dialed down. Maybe multi stage
Fresh cutting light - super soft intensity maybe 50-100 umol
Light for post transplant 150umol
... hm. Or maybe I could wire up an arduino and program a light schedule using it as a dimmer where it gradually increases light until it's closer to my tent so when they are transplanted in they are not shocked . Decent idea. An automatic clone incubator
CloneDome (TM)
PicklesRus
Well-Known Member
Off topic now but I read it's bad to overwater clone cubes, you could use an Arduino moisture sensor in one cube to program an aero cloned to water after it's been dry for a set amount of time. That way it always gets watered when it's the right amount of dry. It could be used after transplant too connected to drip lines. Awesome.
PicklesRus
Well-Known Member
Well, it seems to be getting pretty hot :/
I'm not sure how exactly I will deal with cooling. Maybe the diffuser should be removed... or maybe I have two strips too many in there anyway. I'm not sure that 800-1100par is the right amount of light, it seems like a lot for veg.
I'm not sure how exactly I will deal with cooling. Maybe the diffuser should be removed... or maybe I have two strips too many in there anyway. I'm not sure that 800-1100par is the right amount of light, it seems like a lot for veg.
RandomHero8913
Well-Known Member
Do you have any airflow moving across it? The hot air may be getting trapped on top of the fixture. It looks pretty close to the tent from this angle.
PicklesRus
Well-Known Member
If you look at TastyLEDs chart,... If I'm not reading it wrong this will be way too much light for veg.
I think because the light is so close to the plants, I need to lighten up on the strips. they are going to be getting way too much light. The plants will essentially be growing into the fixture so I should be aiming for around at most 400umol. Currently I'm at around 1100umol... so if I cut it down to two strips I think that would work. That would also fix my cooling problems.
PicklesRus
Well-Known Member
That's totally true there is almost no air moving over it. But after my post above I think this is way too much light for such a small veg space anyway so I'll take it down and remove 4 of the strips. - Wow, efficiency! From 100W to 35W only! I think two strips will be the perfect amount for veg. The way the light is now the plants will go in there receiving 500umol and grow into 1100umol. I think that is way too much for veg.