williamhanson4041
Member
Hello how are you all
Organic Feeding 101.
- Thread starter nick17gar
- Start date
NaturalFarmer
Well-Known Member
I disagree
Dumme
Well-Known Member
Plants don't require sodium, but sodium has be shown to help with metabolism, in very small amounts. It's a "trace element".
http://www.pthorticulture.com/en/training-center/role-of-sodium-and-chloride-in-plant-culture/
http://www.pthorticulture.com/en/training-center/role-of-sodium-and-chloride-in-plant-culture/
DigitalTorture
Well-Known Member
Very tiny amounts.
Joomby
Well-Known Member
What fish are you running in your set up?
Dumme
Well-Known Member
I ran into a problem last year with tank leak. I lost some fish and had to supplement fish for what I had on hand. My local hatchery is trout, but only available seasonally. My current system is running Brook Trout, Rainbow Trout, and supplemented with Shubunkins, and Comets. In total, about 100-150lbs of fish.
Joomby
Well-Known Member
nice. Do you eat the trout? I have a 1000ltr pod with a super ghetto set up it's pretty much just a power head feeding up through a large storage container filled with random media from old tanks. When I finally get around to making a decent set up I might have to get a few tips from you.
Lucifder
Well-Known Member
Hello fellow farmers, just wondering if someone can help with a random thought I had about aerating water and making teas... this season I'm growing a few more plants than usual, so I'm going to fill a 32 gallon food grade trash bin with water straight from the hose and aerate the water and after wards brew some teas. My question is, is it ok to leave the water reservoir uncovered by night even if insects do or try to get in? If not I was going to slice the trash bins lid and line it up with a net to keep bugs out and for the tea to be able to foam up. Thanks y'all stay up.
ALong14U
Well-Known Member
I know this post is very old but I just stumbled across this recipe and forum. You are a god. Your knowledge with soil and nutrients is fantastic. I am trying to figure out how to make good super soil so I can feed only water during my grows. The problem I'm having is the right mix so as the plant uses all said nutes and then can be flushed properly without leftover soil nutes being uptaken while using only water at the end of my 9 week cycle. I am printing your information for distro to friends and family on organic additives. Have several questions on how and if you stack your soil or if you mix completely? Hope to get an alert on this. Happy growing!Organic feeding provides great results. A good organic grow starts with the soil. (look at subcool's section on that. he knows soil.) Im going to go over strictly what to do once the plant is in the dirt, and you still need to feed them something. Feeding the plants the right stuff is key to successful grows, and knowing what to feed and when, is needed for every grower.
If your plant has some sort of issue, theres threads on that https://www.rollitup.org/marijuana-plant-problems/488004-guide-nutrient-deficiency-toxicity.html . this thread is gonna cover what do to AFTER you notice a deficiency, or just to keep a healthy garden. this will be using only organic nutrients. Ive purchased bottles of guano, and molasses and wondered... what now? well this is what now.
**note: most of these teas/mixtures involve some mixing, but a lot of wait time. this is to fully let the properties of the substance combine with the water, and for microbial activity to start. Do not skip the waiting**
Vegetative Teas:
Worm humus:
Origin:this mix is produced from the excrement of worms. they ingest organic material and you end up with this. The best quality of worm humus is going to be from the Californian worms.
Provides: water soluble, and boosts microbes in the soil
Preparation: In 5 liters of water, add in 400gr (about 2 cups) and let it sit for 2 days. stirring every so often to keep it well mixed and the water somewhat oxygenated.
Applicationuring the watering, mixing 1 part of poo-juice with 3 parts water. you can add this in weekly.
Blood Meal:
Origin: After removing and drying blood from animals(usually in a slaughterhouse), it is ground up into a fine powder.
Provides about 12-15%N, 1.2%P, and 1%k
Preparation: in a container, add 1 part blood meal to 9 parts water. cover. over 1 week, open to burp the mix, and stir. after, filter with coffee strainer.
Application: Applying usually only when N deficiency is noted, add to water to create a 10%-25% strength solution.
Gypsum
Origin: CaSO4. Its a rock basically, you can find it naturally outdoors, or (probably easier) at a local plant shop.
Provides: Activates healthy microbial activity. Corrects salinity (toxic salt levels). Provides sulfur, calcium and potassium. Regulates pH, and most importantly, helps in the absorption of N.
Preparation: add 1 pound of gypsum powder (use a mortar and pistil if its too coarse) to the inside of a nylon stocking, or other fine screen material. place this inside a container with 5L of water. Cover. leave for 1-2 weeks, opening the container to stir briskly every few days.
Application: Add it in with the water when pH is unstable, max 10% strength (so dilute it!). dilute it to 5% if mixing it with a N tea, and can be used weekly.
Fishmeal
Origin: obtained from dried, ground fish.
Provides: 8%N, 7%P, trace elements.
Preparation: mix 10% of this powder with 90% water in a container. leave it a week covered, and opening it to burp out the gas (dont breathe it in, smells). Filter at the end of the week.
Application: Dilute the mix, 1part fishgoop with 10 parts water. add in weekly with the feedings, or when a N/P deficiency is noted.
Bat Guano
Origin: decomposed bat poo. preferably pasteurized (since bats can and do carry disease, like rabies!)
Provides: High in N, but also contains P and trace elements. Fresher guano has higher N rating
Preparation: 2 tablespoons of bat poo in 4 -5 liters of water. let sit for 1 week
Application: mix the finished poo water, 1 part to 3 parts water. use every 2 weeks.
Mixed Teas: This is ok for veg + flowering.
Compost Tea (one of my favorites, as i use ground up male plants, or the sticks/stems/fan leaves of the harvested females for this)
Origin: The easiest to come across commercially, or to make at home. this is used worldwide with a variety of ingredients.
Provides: A big boost of microorganisms, helps feed the plants, and boosts a plant's immune system. NPK ratios vary depending the type of compost made.
Preparation: Place a bunch of dead plants in a nylon stocking or screen, put that inside a bucket with about 15L of water, adding water as it evaporates (which means leave it uncovered). after 2 weeks, dump the inside of the bag/screen/stocking back with the rest of your compost pile outside or throw it away or whatever.
Application: If you want to foliar feed this, filter it well, then 1:8 ratio of tea to water. otherwise, just add it in when watering, at a 1:5 ratio. use it every 2 weeks.
Alfalfa Tea. (can also be used during flowering)
Origin: your rabbit's food. this is ground up alfalfa, leaves, stems.
Provides: 2.5%n, 5%p, and 2%k.
Preparation: grabbing a nylon sock and filling with 1 part of the alfalfa, setting it into a bucket with 10 parts water. leave it for a week to create a strong tea.
Application: use every 2 weeks, diluted 1part tea with 10 parts water.
Manures
Origin: the business end of various animals.
Provides: This really depends on what the animal ate, and what the animal is. Rough estimates are:
Cows: .6%N-.3%P-.3%KPreparation: 1 part crap to 10 parts water, in a bucket. 2 weeks, stirring periodically. (again, this is better for the nylon stockings, otherwise your gonna have to filter it - yuck)
horse: .6%N-.6%P-.4%k
Rabbit: .5%N-1.2%P-.5%K
Sheep: .8%N-.5%P-.4%K
Pigs: .6%N-.6%P-.4%K
Application: 1 part poop water to 1 part water. can be used every 2 weeks.
Fruit tea, with or without Molasses.
Origin: made with fermenting fruits. its recommended to add molasses for flowering.
Provides: Rich in NPK, but also contains calcium and some other trace elements. Very rich in microbial activity. Using molasses adds a large amounts of carbs and can contribute to fungus (in high heat grows)
Preparation: Cut fruits into small pieces. place in a container and cover them with molasses( OR cut up fruits, place into a ziploc bag with NO molasses or air) Let it sit for 2 weeks, opening it periodically to let out gases. filter.
Application: 1 tablespoon of fruit rot juice (ew) to 1 liter of water. use it every 10 days.
Flowering Teas:
Banana Peel Tea.
Origin: Bananas. Cheap to make. eat the banana, use the peels.
Provides: Strong Potassium Boost. ideal for flowering.
Preparation: after selecting 4 bananas, and eating the insides, place the 4 peels into a pot, with 4 cups of water (1L). You can also add in 2 tablespoons of molasses. Bring to a boil. let boil for 5 minutes. remove the peels. let cool. place in jars for storage.
Application: mix this 1 part banana goop to 2 parts water. use every 2 weeks.
Sea Weed
Origin: algae or kelp, dried, ground into a powder.
Provides: Lots of K, and trace elements, aminoacids, vitamins, hormones.
Preparation: 100grams of algae powder + 2Liters of water, let sit overnight.
Application: mix 1 part of sea weed juice to 3 parts water, and apply during waterings. can be used every watering.
Paper Ash tea.
Origin: This powder is obtained from burned paper. make sure the paper has no pigments (inks), glues, adhesives, or plastic covering. just plain paper. the cheaper the stuff, the better.
Provides: 5% P and 2% K
Preparation: Burn the paper fully. Ground up the ash. 100g of ash mixed with 2 L of water. let sit 10 days, then filter.
Application: use every 15 days, mixed 1 part ash juice to 2 parts water.
Bonemeal
Origin: Bones, crushed, ground up.
Provides: some N (3%?) and around 7% of P. high in calcium
Preparation: cook in a pot for 10 minutes, 200grams of bonemeal with 6 liters of water, and 1/2 cup of baking soda. let cool, then remove any grease that may have formed at the top. filter the rest of the mix.
Application: Use 1 part bone water to 3 parts water. use it at the start of the 12/12 cycle, or the start of flowering. will last the entire grow.
if you guys have other recipes, post them on here!
GardenGuy
Well-Known Member
@nick17gar @Rising Moon thank you very very much for the intel on teas and herbs!
Just one question to anyone. Do you guys brew the herbs after you dry them or right after you harvest? Does it make any difference?
Just one question to anyone. Do you guys brew the herbs after you dry them or right after you harvest? Does it make any difference?
dankesthours182
Well-Known Member
This is amazing I've been trying to figure out if coco and organic were viable in my situation and these recipes seem to seal the deal!
dankesthours182
Well-Known Member
I just wanna have sex with this thread
graying.geek
Well-Known Member
Basic question from a first time organic grower. Having started diy organic growing in the spring, my plants have been enjoying the summer abundance and variety of raw materials in their compost and teas that are available now. My question is: What do you do you diehards do for raw materials for teas during winter months. Use just store-bought materials? Chop and freeze? Do without?
I've collected a couple Kg of nettles, equisetum, dandelions, various blossums, etc., but how can I keep this valuable stuff in a form that I can use it to brew fresh batches during the winter?
TIA.
I've collected a couple Kg of nettles, equisetum, dandelions, various blossums, etc., but how can I keep this valuable stuff in a form that I can use it to brew fresh batches during the winter?
TIA.
DonTesla
Well-Known Member
@graying.geek
I would just turn it into compost rich soil and save a magic tub, ready for top dress and to draw teas from...
but..
You could create ferments. If done right, could last for years. Cut out air, containments, etc.
and you could freeze yes, but that would just prep it in my mind for worms..
You could create great regular (thermophilic, outdoor) compost. Or vermi compost indoors or out.
You could then seal said compost and it can actually continue to activate / become more bio available for up to 3 or even 4 months max.
Side note
To create fungal dom compost you can just add fungal food to vermi compost or soil, you would be surprised what they can do just alone, by themselves
graying.geek
Well-Known Member
Thanx, Don. I appreciate you sharing.
By "fungal food", do you mean add oatmeal, cooked rice, or some other carb to the finished compost?
Joomby
Well-Known Member
I throw in a handfull of oatmeal every now and again at any stage of the composting. I find it helps to decompose all the carbon (dry grass, leaves, news paper ect.
DonTesla
Well-Known Member
My pleasure dude.
And yeah just like fungal kick starters.. Ground up organic oatmeal with some chia is one of my fav recipes.. Oat bran.. You sprinkle a fluffy mix on top and you will create a less dense, more breathable, real fluffy, super healthy layer with less mold.. My preference for finishing a batch.. some simple safe clean indoor mixing.
Rice we skip altogether now btw... However.. wild slash organic rice hulls, and buckwheat rice hulls have made it into our premium aeration mix.. So rice is still represented ..
Happy growing,
Don
Joomby
Well-Known Member
Hey don it was you starting the soil company right? If so sounds like its up and running .do you have a web site?
DonTesla
Well-Known Member
Still haven't launched officially but happy to help you build some soil for free just cause its good to help others and well, I love building soil. Haha. What kind of recipe did you want to do?