im not speaking in terms of NPK ratios or balancing the NPK numbers or any of that hydro talk
im just speaking purely in terms of the amount of K added to the buffet
I know I keep saying it man, and I wish I was there so you could see the way I say it... as in non-offensive
you are overthinking all of this, like 60,000%
where are you roughly?, give me a city or state area, and i'll find you what you need, but you've been told by some of the absolute most knowledgeable organic guru's here the same thing, you are thinking of this all the wrong way, and I guarantee if you continue it'll bite you in the ass, especially if you are making your own soil.
just
do not add up the npk numbers, you'll only confuse yourself further and lead you to adjustments you don't need
I think the honest to god best decision for you at this point is to get a bag (or better yet find local) of composted steer manure (cheap), get kelp meal, and get rock dusts, and be done with it.
steer manure will cover essentially everything, and what it lacks the kelp will cover.
start a compost and or a wormbin (preferably both, they are different)
the road you are already going down is going to lead you to frustration, more money spent, and I've seen too many growers do that, and then they think organics is shitty because their grow didn't go well
probably 95% of first time organic growers are guilty of the same thing, so don't feel bad, but you need to listen to us.. you are making waaaaay more work for you than you need to.
trust me, I have a few neurotic tendencies as well, i know what it's like man, and you just gotta resist the urge to overthink/overwork it all
im not speaking in terms of NPK ratios or balancing the NPK numbers or any of that hydro talk
im just speaking purely in terms of the amount of K added to the buffet
you were thinking of langbeinite, its also called sul/po/mag has a good amount of potassium in it, as well as sulfur and magnesium (hence the sulpomag name)
don't add the potassium silicate, don't add the magnesium sulfate, don't add the potassium sulfate, you don't want that in there at all.
you inquired about potassium inputs, these are good ones to add. I'm not putting the ashes in there because I don't like the solubility or ph fluctuations it has.
comfrey, dandelion and nettles are fantastic sources of potassium, not to mention they are renewable and FREE ( I can't recommend enough on the importance of fresh comfrey as a frequent topdress)
most seed meals are as well, soybean, cottonseed, neem etc
alfalfa meal and kelp are staples in most organic mixes
manures are reaaaally great, for an even bioavailable fertilizer that add humus to the mix as well as microbial diversity, as well as sulfur (crucial for it's role in terpine development)
the best being manure being alpaca (easier to find than one might think, look for alpaca wool farms)
sheep manure is high in potassium too
insect frass is sorta also
my advice is to forget about langbeinite in regards to it being a source of potassium, it's more for micro nutrients and sulfur, but it's to be used very sparingly and depending on your decisions it may be too much (magnesium and potassium in large amounts cause lockouts)
I honestly urge you to take a simpler approach, get some local dairy/steer manure or if you are lucky alpaca manure, then mix that in with your existing ffof, add kelp meal, a form of fresh humus (check craigslist for hippy wormfarmers or composters) and some rock dusts
that will be more user-friendly to you, and much more forgiving.
not to beat a dead horse, but I cannot stress enough the value of having comfrey, dandelion (who can't find those anyways) or stinging nettles
I have yet to use nettles but comfrey is almost a must-have, in fact for me? it is.
I would not do a grow without it personally
gotta keep the peepers away
unenthused.