amending as you go?
- Thread starter im4satori
- Start date
Yes, 1lb/container is pretty much standard for starting a bin.
But, I would HIGHLY recc that at least one of those 3lbs be Europeans rather than all Red Wigglers.
Now, I run a blend of RW and Euros, but when I first got them they were in a seperate bin. That was till the first harvest and I saw how well they worked the bedding from top to bottom and they got mixed in to all the bins. Being close relatives they play very well with each other.
Again, redwormcomposting.com FTW and a good supplier of worms.
calliandra
Well-Known Member
my 2c:
don't mix "nutrient" teas with microbes - like you have in that combination.
It defeats the purpose of both nutrient AND microbial (you get the the benefit of neither) - and bad things can happen.
As soon as you have EWC/compost on your ingredient list, all you're going to need in that tea is a small amount of food to get the microbes to multiply more quickly.
Make, if you must, nutritional tea, period.
Or microbial tea, period.
Two different creatures, that you would make for different reasons.
The term "tea" is misleading in sooo many ways
im4satori
Well-Known Member
sounds good
im4satori
Well-Known Member
for now im think I will focus on the microbial teasmy 2c:
don't mix "nutrient" teas with microbes - like you have in that combination.
It defeats the purpose of both nutrient AND microbial (you get the the benefit of neither) - and bad things can happen.
As soon as you have EWC/compost on your ingredient list, all you're going to need in that tea is a small amount of food to get the microbes to multiply more quickly.
Make, if you must, nutritional tea, period.
Or microbial tea, period.
Two different creatures, that you would make for different reasons.
The term "tea" is misleading in sooo many ways
just want to do something to add back what im losing from the salt fertilizers until I can get my amendments on point
im4satori
Well-Known Member
I read that egg shells make the worms reproduce faster
so I guess I will be adding a tsp or so to each bin when the get established
and im going to only give them some base scraps for now and later some veg/fruit scraps
nothing more until theyre healthy and established
I might pick up some peat,,,that it
so I guess I will be adding a tsp or so to each bin when the get established
and im going to only give them some base scraps for now and later some veg/fruit scraps
nothing more until theyre healthy and established
I might pick up some peat,,,that it
greasemonkeymann
Well-Known Member
I really like putting out a tarp before a good rain, and letting them collect under it for a night or two, then go gather them up, they work AWESOME at aeration.
the reds seem to be more at the top doing their thing, but the native nightcrawlers burrow up and down constantly, pushing out their casts out the drainage holes.
I can't use the euros here though, they die when it gets hot out.
That's weird about the Euros. The local worm supplier does Euros exclusively now, saying they did better in this area than the red wigglers. I had reached the same conclusion several years ago with my basement bins. Would have figured the Euros would do better in the heat since they are usually deeper than the RW.
Outside? IDK There are worms everywhere from cocoons in the VC, but I do the same as you and snag natives after a heavy rain and toss them in the bins. So, IDK if the cocoons are native, RW, or Euros. The natives are way bigger than the others though. Don't really care as long as there are lots of them and there is compared to when we moved in. I know that the native population exploded when I started top dressing the flower beds, raised beds, etc. with organic amendments years back, plus the heavy mulch.
greasemonkeymann
Well-Known Member
nah, a worm bin is almost exclusively bacterial, there won't be more of a risk involved than the normal ambient spores in the air.
im4satori
Well-Known Member
so im having trouble sourcing either the basalt or granite rock dust
my local hydrogarden store only carrys azomite...asked them if they could order it they said no
the places I frequently shop only carry glacier rock dust
I found it on ebay but I don't know what there shipping practices are and im the paranoid type lol
found something at homedepot but not sure what it is and don't think its derived from either....
http://www.homedepot.com/p/AgraLife-Megamend-22-lb-Organic-Micronutrients-and-Trace-Minerals-Fertilizer-for-Plants-and-Lawn-MEGA22G/204414420
my local hydrogarden store only carrys azomite...asked them if they could order it they said no
the places I frequently shop only carry glacier rock dust
I found it on ebay but I don't know what there shipping practices are and im the paranoid type lol
found something at homedepot but not sure what it is and don't think its derived from either....
http://www.homedepot.com/p/AgraLife-Megamend-22-lb-Organic-Micronutrients-and-Trace-Minerals-Fertilizer-for-Plants-and-Lawn-MEGA22G/204414420
Dynamo626
Well-Known Member
when I have a customer who needs an item we cant get in I let them order it to the store and pick it up from there. talk to your guy maby he just haven't thought of that to offer it.
The Azomite is fine, the Glacial Rock dust is fine. Which is cheaper and can you source both locally?
Used Azomite for years, still do, but especially till I could find a local rock dust source. Then, I used a blend of both.
Azomite: 1cup/cf max
Rock dust 2cups/cf max
One thing to bear in mind is, kelp meal provides all the minerals and trace elements you need.
The Azomite and rock dusts are really just icing on the cake. Kelp meal IS the cake.
Just sayin
Used Azomite for years, still do, but especially till I could find a local rock dust source. Then, I used a blend of both.
Azomite: 1cup/cf max
Rock dust 2cups/cf max
One thing to bear in mind is, kelp meal provides all the minerals and trace elements you need.
The Azomite and rock dusts are really just icing on the cake. Kelp meal IS the cake.
Just sayin
im4satori
Well-Known Member
that's a nice policy to have
im4satori
Well-Known Member
what if Im only using azomite? how much total per cubic ft would I use then?