HOW TO KILL SPIDER MITES 100%: " Naturally - no chemicals"

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OBtree

Well-Known Member
The pepper spray that is not the nuke em. I rotate Ed rosenthol insecticide neam oil nuke em and your pepper spray will be the 4th component. ( not including h20 sprays) gimme a shout lemme know if you have any experience with broad mites as most of the growing community know spider mites are a lot less of a nuacense than the broads thanks
 
O

OBtree

Well-Known Member
Somewhat helpful :) looking to speak with the recipe man. Or if you'd like share your knowledge of broad mites
Riggggght on
 
miggaman

miggaman

Member
dbkick said:
its real fucking odd someone can lay judgement on a product they've never even fucking heard of till this thread. Sounds like someones "Been to UCLA and have a few degrees under my belt"
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Old post but I still wish to use my keyboard to chastise this young whippersnapper.

@dbkick Your tone, demeanor, and message speak to your maturity and knowledge..
 
miggaman

miggaman

Member
Cannabisculture said:
Information is solid man. I'm gonna pick up some habaneros first thing tommorow!
Chems are bad, Organic is gold PERIOD! Nature intended plants to be grown organic. Mama always said....if it ain't broke don't fix it
Anyone questioning this guy should maybe put their ego's aside for one moment and open their mind to a safe organic alternative.
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WELL SAID.
 
Hippiedude420

Hippiedude420

New Member
Vacume them then use foxfarm don't bug me works great its all natural and won't burn your sexy ladies 100% fool proof in my book unless you Vacume your plants up ofcourse hahaha o ya make shure you empty the Vacume right away far away or they will come back
 
NuggODank

NuggODank

Well-Known Member
kind of late but i just found signs of spider mite dmg on some plants that are literally supposed to be harvested in a week the buds are fully developed and im wondering if it would be safe still attempt to spray them off using this chili spray even though its gonna be harvested soon and teh spicey residue might affect the way it tastes
or Should i just cut my losses sterilize my room and start planning for the next cycle?

Any help is truly appreciated thank you
 
Masterbear

Masterbear

Active Member
calibuzz said:
HOW TO KILL SPIDER MITES 100%
By Calibuzz - 30 year grower

View attachment 1831939
Cured Clone - see new growth!

You have Spider Mites? YOU HAVE A PROBLEM!!! Unless you are diligent and work hard, the problem will not go away, your crop is doomed as one by one they fail and die.

As a Native American, proud of our heritage and ways in keeping with the environment, I give to you a method that is naturally harmonious, and pure. The method is so benign, you may use this method even during flowering - without a single harm to your precious plants.

The best way is not the easiest by far; to do the perfect job takes comitment - so all you lazy bud heads who want a quick fix: "look elsewhere, or coat your precious medicine with chemicals and poison...and remind me not to smoke your herb."

Editor's note: One will find a bit of cross talk in this thread, and some rude posts. The Editor aplogizes that many have strayed off the central subject and prefer to haze each other. However, one will find many other concerned members with great suggestions and feedback. - calibuzz

"Now then, for all you fervent horticulturists..."

Spider mites are alive; you can make them dead. All life is fragile, but... "how do I kill the mites without hurting my crop?"

I will not use pesticides or harmful chemicals on my plants; thus, I have found an all-natural way to rid the infestations that sometimes occur. Curing your plants takes time and care, but you can rid your babies of the mini-spiders that suck your plant's life's blood.

Spiders have skin-like exoskeletons; the tissues are sensitive to change. Molecules soak though their pours, skin and orifices; thus, what may bother you - a giant living organism - might prove fatal to a spider the size of a pinhead. This is so when using a common group of proteins found in Nature. I will teach you how to naturally and inexpensively rid your plants of the dreaded spider mites.
:fire:The Habanera Pepper (sometimes pronounced Habenero) is the key ingredient in pepper spray. Once you make a batch of CALICLEAN you'll see why. One may buy habanera peppers in any vegetable section for about 6 dollars a pound. The peppers are light orange to dark red, and are about the size of a bic lighter when fully mature, most are half that size. Go buy a pound, now!!! If you have mites, time is of the essence.

NOTICE: The spray you make is not harmful to humans (hab peppers are an ingredient in all really good south of the border salsas), but irritating to mucus membranes and soft tissues, it will make you cough - as its like breathing chili powder, so use care.

"GEE, MY PLANT LEAVES ARE DOTTED WITH WHITE SPOTS AND TURNING PALE OR YELLOW."
If you have taken a powerful magnifying glass to the underside of your plant's leaves you will have seen the little off-yellow dots with a brown center that move about slowly over the plant leafs and veins - the mature mites. These big mites leave web-strands like other spiders. Web strands between leaf and stems (as they cross back and forth to new vulnerable leaves), and between leaf serrations are indications of a healthy infestation and big mites on your plants. You may also have seen almost too-hard-to-see little brown dots crawling slowly about. These are the baby mites that will grow into big suckers. You may also have seen groups of little white dots near the central leaf brachiation and the main leaf veins. These are clutches of mite eggs. They will soon hatch and produce up to 80 mites per clutch, per mature mite. You are screwed if you do nothing. But fret not, you can save your plants, and they will recover and thrive - with diligence.

HERE IS WHAT TO DO

Making the Calicleaner

1.) Get a sauce pan - fill with one pint of water - put on lowest flame possible (do not boil !!!).
2.) Chop 4 -5 Habanera peppers fine. Chop open seeds and central membranes, as the power lies there.
3.) Simmer chopped peppers for 20 minutes - making sure not to boil (you will destroy the active proteins).
4.) When you put your head over the pan and the wispy-steam stings your eyes, the Calicleaner is ready.
5.) Pour the Calicleaner through a fine mesh strainer - a little fine grit is OK - let cool in a clean bowl.
6.) Pour room temperature contents in a mister spray bottle. Your are ready to apply.

HOW TO APPLY Calicleaner
1.) Put on gloves, and wear a mask, or at least put a bandana around your nose and mouth.
2.) Turn off all fans - you do not want this spray in your eyes!!!
3.) Spray the bottom of EVERY leaf - starting with the bottom leaves first, work up to the top.
4.) After the bottoms are done, hit the tops and the stems.
5.) Squirt liberally in new leaf pods - tightly wound new leaf growth (the small mites hide there).
6.) Get the heck out of the room till it clears.
7.) Repeat procedure with each plant.
8.) Spray the soil, the pots, and the floor or earth around the area to kill dropping mites and stop migration.
9.) Wash hands with soap and water when complete - the stuff will heat-up skin for 4 hours.
10.) DO NOT WORRY. Though the stuff is lethal to mites, the plants love it.

WHAT’S NEXT??

Congratulations! You have successfully killed the mites that you sprayed - on contact!. Plus, the mites are thwarted in biting again as they get a lethal dose of hot mouth. Your plants should be turning green again with in half a day. Though the leaves are scarred, they will recover and work again - producing vital sugars for growth.

However, you are not done. Some mites will escape the spray, though you have killed 95% of them. Thus, you will have to do the spray again tomorrow. As a matter of fact you will have to spray every 2-3 days till you see no more mites - usually up to two weeks. SOME EGGS WILL HATCH!!! Thus a week after the first spray, do a super job again, the baby mites are likely out and about. Kill 'em right away.

Use your magnifying glass to inspect each plant carefully, when nothing moves and you see no more webs, your plants are clear. YEAH!!

Additional precautions: make sure your containers and pots do not touch, mites migrate. Clean your floors and equipment so live mites do not return (spray them down with Caliclean). Since no person can kill every living mite in their situation, eternal diligence is now part of the equation. One mite may turn into a million in a month.

Other helpful hints: wash your plants with clean water spray between sprayings, this cleans off dead mites and eggs, and refreshes the plant leaf compromised by the vampire sucking mites. Keep the room cool, 78 degrees to 68 degrees if possible during treatment. Mites hate the cold - thus weakened mites will drop dead. If lower leaves are infested with eggs and mites - cut them off! DO NOT LEAVE CUTTINGS NEARBY! Burn or bury your cuttings far away.

Spraying notes: Mites tend to collect where the leaves join at the nexus and overlap. If you can, lay your plants on-end or position upsidedown (be real careful) to make sure all undersides are sprayed. Cut off curled leaves where they collect. If you're a rich person you may make a full pound to ten gallons of water and dunk them - even better!!

The best part of using Calicleaner is you may use it always - even during flowering. As the solution is all natural, no one is harmed but the mites: "Nature to deal with Nature." Your money goes to a farmer not a chemical corporation.

Caliclean works,

Check often; check carefully; your plants will thank you with fine flowering! Be good to your Natural Medicine, and it will be good to you.

Good Luck and best wishes, "How Ni Kan, Megwetch," Peace
Amazing post bro, have been using Neem, hydrogen peroxide and dish soap to maintain their exposure on leaves. Now I know how to kill them once and for all finally. I will go and grab some spicy spicy ones later
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Palomar

Palomar

Well-Known Member
Bummer... Thought I had my mite issue under control, had to leave the room for a few days and they came back strong and girls are late in flower - any hope here?

Thanks all,

respect,
pal
 
M

MidWestRootz

New Member
Yo Calibuzz!
So I have had mild issue with fungis nats, and a bit of Thrips. I have stayed on top of them all summer, it seemed to be clear so I flipped the girls. Now 5 and a half weeks in I had a flair up of bugs out of nowhere. It took me by surprise big time. The girls are scrog so it is hard to check deep in the canopy.
I open my tent yesterday and find a white speckled leaf, picking it and sure enough the beginning stages of a spider mite infestation. So now I have Thrips, Fungis Nats, and Spider Mites. At first I freaking out and am like damn what do I do. I grow organic and have never had to use chemicals EVER. I found this post! I read through all the Chem loving haters replies and thought fuck it I got nothing to lose at this point.
I made up the pepper spray, but out of not being sure if I was getting trolled I only sprayed around the edges just in case it was going to fuck up my plants.
I checked first thing this morning, and WOW! THIS WORKS FOR ALL THE HATERS THIS WORKS AMAZING! I CAN'T FIND ONE BUG MOVING TODAY, NO NATS NO THRIPS NO MITES!!!!!!!!!!!! I of course still have some larva to deal with it but I am 100% confident that they are fucked.

Remember I did not even spray the whole plants down, but the pepper is so strong that even without directly spraying all moving bugs are gone!!! HUGE THANKS FOR THIS INFO! YOUR A GARDEN SAVER!!! FUCK THE HATERS, GO SPRAY CHEMICALS IF YOU WANT BUT THIS WORKS EVEN BETTER THAN Calibuzz says use it and give thanks!!
 
M

MidWestRootz

New Member
virulient said:
If you're wondering why 3-4 different people are attacking you in your own thread it's because A) your method is WAY too much work to rid your garden of spider mites. This is a simple problem with multiple, simple solutions. and B) you're trying to censor people on an internet chat board. It's preposterous.
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I did it in 20 min and have no bug problems, pepper spray works amazing!
 
Jay7t5

Jay7t5

Well-Known Member
Guy's i have had my first experience of a gnat and springtail infestation in my organic soil the Spring tails im not so bothered about so much as I've had them before with no ill effects so I wanted to use a natural organic solution so I done my research and come across Neem cake or meal as it's known, I have applied about 3 table spoons to 7 gallons of soil mix thoroughly and I scraped and sprayed the top inch with Neem oil for 3 day's there is nothing left in there, the Neem cake has NPK of around 2-1-1 so ideal as a N amendment for supersoil,if you are looking for any Google mistrys Neem cake, it's cheap 5kg 10 quid, hope you nail them bastard's
 
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