Don't want to hijack the ops thread so I'm done but Michigan feel free to pm me some flushing links or info on what to do instead of flushing etc. As I'm going into week 6 now... would be much appreciated, cheers mate
I got asked about this in a PM by a member after seeing the disaster another thread became. He asked where to find books and papers on "flushing" and said he might try the "fade".
Here's my answer to him......I felt it needs to be seen,,,,,,again!
Your looking for post grad work. You would do better to search papers......The thing is, NOTHING in agriculture gets 'flushed" and that leads to little to no research in the area. You see, the thing is, the whole "idea" of "flushing is nonsense! Plants don't work that way! They do not take up nutrients or salts as most of you think of them! They do not "store" them in the sense you think of them! Not only that, but the nutritional "stores" in a plant are not in buds or budding or flowers! NO amount of "flushing" will "exchange" plant "stored" nutrition back "out" of the plant! Scientifically impossible by the way most of you guys understand......Ok, that's my word on "flushing". (No one listens to this in threads if they don't want to hear it or accept it.)
Now then, you propose the "FADE TO FINISH" method. Great idea in theory but, and this IS a BIG BUT! Remember when I said above that "the nutritional "stores" in a plant are not in buds or budding or flowers!" ? This shoots that theory in the ass right away. You see the main amount of stored nutrition is in either the roots and the rest in leaves and some in small amounts in transit in the phloam (the sap that actually moves the nutrients around the plant)......
Now when you "starve a plant" it will draw from it's self by actually breaking down the needed parts of it's self to do an "emergency" attempt to reproduce! (This can happen in certain plants even in veg! A kind of last ditch effort to continue the species.)
With that in mind you take the fact that the plant is not "moving" nutrients "out" of buds,but into them to speed growth and as fast as it can - "reproduce". This single minded process the plant now puts it's self on causes the plant to stress it's self. This self induced stress can, in many cases if done long enough, lead the plant to go bisexual, and produce "banana's" in a last ditch effort to reproduce and "carry on the line" and produce seeds...
Basically put, In reality you are moving nutrients that you're "attempting" to get rid of,,right to where your trying to remove them from! You are also stressing the plant in the way for "Herming" to actually happen easier!
I and many others that have tried to convey this actual plant science, are called everything you can think of and those 'impossible of understanding these facts", fight so hard against us that many of us have simply chosen to avoid the issue or don't fight to hard.
Anyway, there you are in as short and sweet and as simple/understandable as I can...
The thing is you have to understand Botany and Horticulture (and there are LOTS of subsections to those that are involved here) to truly put together the pieces of the puzzle to get your head wrapped around the idea that flushing and the "fade" don't work for what they are intended or alleged to actually do!
There you go Mods, nice, polite and to the point. (Sorry about the other thread Sunni)
There you go, Now have at it!
I'm stepping back to watch the circus.
Read this too!
https://www.rollitup.org/t/the-truth-about-flushing.409622/
Proper dry and cure is what your looking to do.
The dry should be done in 50% RH and at 70 deg F.
The buds should be connected to at least parts of the stem.
They are dried until you can bend the stem and it cracks and not simply bends over.
If it cracks in half and breaks apart - you've dried too much.
At this point - remove the buds from the stems and put them in jars and store in darkness.
Every day, open the cover and let it sit a cpl of min. Recover and put away.
Do this for a week and then every other day for a week.
Now add a Bovida 58 or 62 pack and leave the lid on and only "burp" once a week for 2 weeks.
Now I simply store them in the dark for 4-6 more weeks and then enjoy.
You get more flavor and more potency.
Another variation is to add the Bovita packs at the jarring up and burp every cpl of days for a cpl weeks and store in the dark a total of 6-8 weeks.....The longer the better!
If you had the patience to grow the plant out properly. You owe it to yourself to find the patience to do a proper cure. The difference is night and day.
No shit!
Bone dry weed at 10-15% RH smokes hot and harsh.......While some think that 58-62% RH is high and they have trouble lighting a joint - they simply haven't been doing it long enough to actually learn that you get higher, faster and more effectively by smoking material that is over 50%.
Not to mention that that joint - once you learn the trick to getting it lit - right. Burns much longer and the taste is to die for....
Good luck