Need help with bucket grow, dark green, no yellow

Lion-O

Lion-O

Active Member
Hey again---

First, thanks again for the assist with the previous plant. It's looking great now and in flower for past almost 2 weeks. As for the next plant in veg...

This plant is a dynamed, so mostly CBD. I'm using flora nutrients, 3 part. Been siding on lower nutrients. Right now it's just small and dark green, some leaves are spindly though. The PPM is just under 600. Using hydroguard, roots look great. Res temp is 67 - 72f. Ph is 6.0, and usually set to 6.0 - 6.1, sometimes I check in morning and it's 6.3 - 6.4, but usually doesn't change much.

I know that dark green means too much N, but isn't this already really low on PPM? Can dark green mean something else instead? Searched everywhere, but they all say too much N. It's probably 30 - 40 days veg now. Fimmed the other day. I'm using RO water, cal mag plus and pro tek supplements. LED 240 true watts.
IMG_6562.JPG IMG_6560.JPG IMG_6555.JPG IMG_6553.JPG
 
Johnei

Johnei

Well-Known Member
Lights off pics would be better to assess your situation.

^pH 5.5 yes, and try to get you res temps lower than that for best results. I mean 67 is ok, but it shouldn't get any higher. try to stabilise and insulate to keep steady temps down there constant.

ppm is not a good method to convey information of the nutrient strength. Tell us in EC, or you must know the conversion factor of your meter. (Research.)
So you'd have to convey for example: 700ppm at 0.7 conversion which we would know is EC 1.0, or just relay info in EC which is a universal measurement. (Must research what I say if you don't understand. Easy to find explanation/article about this.) If you look at the chart, you can see if you just said 700ppm, it could be EC 1.0, EC 1.1, or EC 1.4. Every ppm meter is just an EC meter that does the conversion for you and displays ppm value on the screen. EC is electro conductivity between minerals, all minerals are salts, salts conduct electricity, the more salts in the water, the higher the EC there is, lower salts and less electrical conductivity between salt/mineral particles and EC is lower. Just tryin to help for all your future grow life so you know. :)

There is no point to guess what nutrient strength your DWC bucket plant needs. TYhe plant will tell you.
Check EC a few hours and/or the next day and coming days after filling with fresh nutrients, if the nutrient solution EC gets stronger as the water level drops the plant is telling you it is sucking up more water than nutrients and you need to lower the nutrient solution overall EC. If the nutrient solution EC significantly gets lower, then the plants need an overal higher strngth nutrient solution EC. The sweet spot is when the water level is dropping as they drink, and EC is staying relatively constant or very little bit is getting lower and keep it there as to not overfeed. As they want more or less they will communicate it to you in this way.

Just started typing and couldn't stop, hope this helps.

Good Growing.

Nutrient-concentration-conversions-EC-PPM-CF.jpg
 
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Lion-O

Lion-O

Active Member
I'll research the ec for meter but don't believe it provides any information in that regard. The pics were compensated for the color temperature of the lights. Too many people don't understand that many cameras can adjust for this if you know what to input for your light temperature.

So just looking at the leaves doesn't convey a diagnosis?
 
WeedFreak78

WeedFreak78

Well-Known Member
If your ph keeps slowly rising, you're at a good EC level. I'd set PH at 5.8 and let it rise over a couple days. I think I've read LEDs can promote darker foliage. Otherwise it looks fine to me, I'd keep running the way you are.

Generally:
PH goes up, EC goes down= raise EC level
PH goes down, EC goes up = lower EC level
PH stays stable , EC stays stable = close to perfect
PH goes up, EC stays stable = perfect
 
dirtWeevil

dirtWeevil

Well-Known Member
take some pics in natural light, or at least not purple, adjusting your cam doesn't change the human eye at all, it's still surrounded and misted by purple, which causes the eye to see the interior color differently. I don't know why it is so difficult for people to just flip a freakin switch and turn off the purple or yellow light when they want a diagnosis, then turn it back on, ffs i just don't fuckin get it
 
Lion-O

Lion-O

Active Member
dirtWeevil said:
take some pics in natural light, or at least not purple, adjusting your cam doesn't change the human eye at all, it's still surrounded and misted by purple, which causes the eye to see the interior color differently. I don't know why it is so difficult for people to just flip a freakin switch and turn off the purple or yellow light when they want a diagnosis, then turn it back on, ffs i just don't fuckin get it
Click to expand...
It was my understanding adjusting color balance on cam was sufficient. If you set your white balance to the color temperature of the scene you’re photographing, it should look great! If you’re photographing light bulbs that have a color temperature of 3000 K and you set your camera’s white balance to 3000 K, the light should look white! Most of your references, mister weevil, are to those that do not adjust WB at all. I am not going to get off on a tangent with this though, think what you will...
 
dirtWeevil

dirtWeevil

Well-Known Member
yet your pics are purple still, which is the problem, the brain mixes that purple in to the other things around it, regardless of what you set your camera to. if you were asking a camera to diagnose your problem then i could see where you'd want to adjust your image for a cameras view, however in this case you need to adjust your lighting for a human eye. that's my point, can you not see that is clearly still purple?
 
Lion-O

Lion-O

Active Member
Unwatching thread. Thanks everyone for your advice. I think it's what weedfreak mentioned about darker from leds.
 
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