The Truth About Flushing
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Tx-Peanutt
Well-Known Member
Is it better to give it water than the nutes I have never heard that method before I will start doing that c how it works ....
MichiganMedGrower
Well-Known Member
There are many ways to fertilize. Regardless of brand or type I tend to figure what I think the plant will use the next week (2-3 waterings in my garden for mature flowers in soil) and devide the amount for each water/ feed.
For example. Rather than giving 15 ml. And then water only the next time or two. I give 5 ml each watering.
If I see them hungry I may go up to 7.5 ml or later up to 10. Large hungry plants may peak at 12.5 or 15ml's. But will likely be tapered off the higher dose sooner to avoid over nuting.
Have to watch the plants closely to get a feel.
Low fans can have white tips that indicate micro nute deficiency starting. High leaves tips yellowing is likely burn starting. That sort of thing.
And then after peak flower production I will reduce the same way as I see they have had enough.
Always go up and down in small steps if possible. Less stress on the plants in my opinion.
As far as water before feeding. I only find this helpful if feeding a larger dose. Or if I am trying to dissolve and wash out some salts I will put a 1/2 gallon of fresh water in and let it soak the pot. Then water/feed the proper mixture.
I guess this is my way to "flush" without ruining the soil biology. If they are really over fertilized I will soak a whole gallon first. Read the runoff ec and look for clearer less yellow/brown runoff when I pour the nute gallon through.
This helps clear out more unused buildup.
Tx-Peanutt
Well-Known Member
Ok kool thanks that's really helpful ... That is something that I will try to add to my process ... I am new at this so I'm still trying to learn how to grow the veg part wasn't to bad but I guess I was doing it right as soon as I went to flower the shit hit the fan and she started struggling
MichiganMedGrower
Well-Known Member
If you are switching to a bloom bottle before the plant is finished growing into a mature flower that is the common problem I see here.
Other than just simply adding too much crap to the soil. The plants don't need or benefit from 75% of the stuff recommended in this industry.
Tx-Peanutt
Well-Known Member
Well I gave her bloom whenever I started seeing her flower just a little at first now I give her full strength but like I said she is struggling so bad she looked a little better yesterday but I will c when I turn her lights on
Chunky Stool
Well-Known Member
I tried to do that but Mrs. Stool kept taking it for her projects.
BTW: How do you separate worms from castings when you harvest? Or do you just add worms to your mix?
I also noticed a LOT of insect activity in my worm bin the last time I harvested a tray of castings. I could literally stand there and watch a zillion tiny white bugs jumping because they were silhouetted on black plastic. Since the bin is outdoors now, there's not much I can do to keep bugs out. Starting an indoor grow with bugs in the soil sounds like it could end badly...
Chunky Stool
Well-Known Member
600ppm is 1.4 on my crappy meter.I rarely feed over 1.2 either. Including my .3 ec well water.
1.4 works well with coco.
WeedFreak78
Well-Known Member
In 3 years of doing only hydro(aero/NFT Hybrid and DWC), I only ran leeching cycles the first year or so. New to hydro, I followed common advice for a 2 week "flush"
, then one week next run... like my nutes directions said
, then 5 days, then 3 days..... Once I learned to regulate my nutrients, I stopped having any salt buildup in my systems and I run nutes right to the end. My bud also got progressively better.
In soil, I up pot quick enough in veg to not need nutes, but I do supplement lightly with liquid fish+seaweed(F+S), maybe some left over PBP Grow or Liquid Karma(LK) from my hydro days, every now and then. My plants are never in a pot more than 5 weeks, until they go into flower where they finish in 5gal buckets. For 8-9 week strains, I water to runoff once with F+S going into flower. I feed 2x a week, about 1.5-2L, the first 5-6 weeks of flower, alternating F+S and LK/Hydroplex(more leftovers), then just F+S. I don't usually get much, if any, run off from my feedings. I'll water to runoff again with F+S going into week 7, and only feed again if i think they need it, otherwise, just water. I water almost every day, maybe .5L, enough to moisten the top inch or so that's dried out.
You can leech the available nutrients and wastes from the soil, but within a few days, the soil biology will have more readily available, assuming you have halfway decent soil, and the plant will just start taking up what it needs again. Only after a short period of stress from being O2 starved and nutrient deprived during peak growth. Can't do anything about the plant itself.
I don't get how the concepts behind this are so hard to get for some people when there is plenty of unbiased info around the internet, within other agro communities as well, about the truths/ myths of "flushing".
The sad part is, 50 years from now, some noob will be still filling a few 5 gal buckets getting ready to "flush" his plants.
, then one week next run... like my nutes directions said, then 5 days, then 3 days..... Once I learned to regulate my nutrients, I stopped having any salt buildup in my systems and I run nutes right to the end. My bud also got progressively better.In soil, I up pot quick enough in veg to not need nutes, but I do supplement lightly with liquid fish+seaweed(F+S), maybe some left over PBP Grow or Liquid Karma(LK) from my hydro days, every now and then. My plants are never in a pot more than 5 weeks, until they go into flower where they finish in 5gal buckets. For 8-9 week strains, I water to runoff once with F+S going into flower. I feed 2x a week, about 1.5-2L, the first 5-6 weeks of flower, alternating F+S and LK/Hydroplex(more leftovers), then just F+S. I don't usually get much, if any, run off from my feedings. I'll water to runoff again with F+S going into week 7, and only feed again if i think they need it, otherwise, just water. I water almost every day, maybe .5L, enough to moisten the top inch or so that's dried out.
You can leech the available nutrients and wastes from the soil, but within a few days, the soil biology will have more readily available, assuming you have halfway decent soil, and the plant will just start taking up what it needs again. Only after a short period of stress from being O2 starved and nutrient deprived during peak growth. Can't do anything about the plant itself.
I don't get how the concepts behind this are so hard to get for some people when there is plenty of unbiased info around the internet, within other agro communities as well, about the truths/ myths of "flushing".
The sad part is, 50 years from now, some noob will be still filling a few 5 gal buckets getting ready to "flush" his plants.
greg nr
Well-Known Member
You can add some neem cake/meal. That will mess with the bugz but the worms love it.... Organic as far as I know. I keep mine in the garage so I use some ipm on it from time to time. Mostly just fruit flies, but annoying anyway.
Chunky Stool
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the tip!
I recently began adding neem seed meal to the worm bedding mix. Maybe that will help get rid of the bugs if I give it enough time. Probably won't kill them, just make them relocate.
I've also had moisture problems and was thinking about mixing non-clumping kitty litter with my scraps to absorb excess H2O. It has the consistency of ground up clay bricks and plants LOVE it in soil.
Has anyone else tried kitty litter in their worm bin?
I've been using shredded paper, but it's not enough...
whitebb2727
Well-Known Member
Yes.
I buy a local promix type soil for 25 bucks for 4 cubic foot.
I can't see it going bad.
Meh. I doubt it much different. I don't see it spoiling either.
The stuff I buy is the same stuff local nurseries and green houses use. Actually it is made in MI.
Less is more and keep it super simple is the best advice.
You either mix the nutes weaker and feed every time or mix a little stronger and feed, water, feed, water, etc.
Chunky Stool
Well-Known Member
I'm a big fan of Epsoma products. Unfortunately, most of them contain feather meal -- which I recently learned contains arsenic.
Lately I've been mixing my own custom organic nutes -- without the feather meal. I went with neem as a substitute, but gotta use more so it's less cost effective...
whitebb2727
Well-Known Member
Yea that's a common mistake. Next time stick with grow feed all the way through or at least until the stretch is over.
whitebb2727
Well-Known Member
I keep my soil in the basement. I keep spinosad on hand and I add diatamacous earth to my soil.
Chunky Stool
Well-Known Member
This is an interesting topic!
I occasionally use Pura Vida by Technaflora and they recommend a feed-water-water schedule. And when I mix the recommended dose, it drops ph below 5.5 -- which is a tad low.
I wonder if the goal is to have a wide ph swing??? I just figured it was to not mix as often...
Bakersfield
Well-Known Member
Your meter should either convert that ec by 700 = 980ppm or by 500 = 700ppm.
Most American nute companies prefer the 700 conversion.
I like to use the ec only, just to avoid confusion.
MichiganMedGrower
Well-Known Member
One of the things we avoid doing the lighter nutes every watering is the acidic soil I used to battle. The mix is not so harsh either.
Lucky Luke
Well-Known Member
Yea i tried looking there to.
It would be interesting to have a known company have a definition of what is a flush to help discuss it. The trouble with the wording is it seems to have more than a couple of meanings.
Im in soil so I leach if ive over fed. I do flush when i do a poo.
chemphlegm
Well-Known Member
after watching that vid of that company I dont think I an put them into the honesty department. selling a product they say isnt needed, bound to say anything more to substantiate its necessity
best i can guess is the place I swiped the pic from is where I got those directions