The Truth About Flushing

Budley Doright

Budley Doright

Well-Known Member
CoalaCat

CoalaCat

Member
Ok so by now I've done the experiment of the longest flush I've ever done. Full two weeks in coco and I can feel no difference from 3-4 days to 2 weeks. I'll have to try not flushing at all to see if that makes a difference.
 
chemphlegm

chemphlegm

Well-Known Member
CoalaCat said:
I am expecting to taste the difference but I don't. I still got a nice yield, didn't seem to impact there. They still had plenty of green leaves when harvested though...
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its not about the flushing, its about the feeding. what are you feeding, what is your schedule, what is your substrate??

if you've flushed and can tell no difference in your results you're probably feeding correctly is all. following the feeding directions usually gets us there too. push your ferts right to the end, dont follow directions.....then tell us how your weed tastes a couple weeks after you dry it. now do the same thing and try your flushing this time , now report... see how that works?
 
Budley Doright

Budley Doright

Well-Known Member
chemphlegm said:
its not about the flushing, its about the feeding. what are you feeding, what is your schedule, what is your substrate??

if you've flushed and can tell no difference in your results you're probably feeding correctly is all. following the feeding directions usually gets us there too. push your ferts right to the end, dont follow directions.....then tell us how your weed tastes a couple weeks after you dry it. now do the same thing and try your flushing this time , now report... see how that works?
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Being able to stop nutes for two weeks without any noticeable loss in yield could mean there were still adiquate feed in substrate to keep it green. The plant would still have the same nute profile but the substrate would now be close to nute free. Just throwing that out there. A flush test would be a hard to do test using soil I would think where as doing a hydro setup to do side by's would be more accurate. I have not noticed any difference for the most part when trying both.
 
chemphlegm

chemphlegm

Well-Known Member
Budley Doright said:
Being able to stop nutes for two weeks without any noticeable loss in yield could mean there were still adiquate feed in substrate to keep it green. The plant would still have the same nute profile but the substrate would now be close to nute free. Just throwing that out there. A flush test would be a hard to do test using soil I would think where as doing a hydro setup to do side by's would be more accurate. I have not noticed any difference for the most part when trying both.
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exactly! we all know if we pour nitrogen in the soil in the last couple weeks for instance an awful tastes result, without fermentation in a jar.
we also know if we decrease these nutrients as the plant is using up less of them that no off tastes result and there is no jar fermentation needed.a perfect smoke results as soon as the herb is dried correctly, in a controlled room mine is superb at a couple weeks. The hydro nute charts I've used show a decreased amount of nutrients(even though they could have sold us more to use right if it was better to do that especially) and following directions a fermentation in a jar is not necessary because maybe those excess nutrients are now being used instead of stored in plant material. fermentation breaks down these unburned carbs, the ones that burn and smoke like shit, the ones over fed to the end likely.
 
chemphlegm

chemphlegm

Well-Known Member
Dumme said:
I've done a side by side with organic and non-organic, and there is no difference with proper cure, imo.
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no difference because you likely didnt jam either with full nutrients to the end of harvest?
I agree, I find no difference in my weed either, cured/flushed no matter....must be all about the feed, not all about the flush

I've "cured' and not cured. I find degraded old tired trichomes fermented jarred or dried that were overfed to the end make for sleepy time couch experience, But properly fed herb only needs to dry, not ferment in wet jars.
 
MichiganMedGrower

MichiganMedGrower

Well-Known Member
chemphlegm said:
no difference because you likely didnt jam either with full nutrients to the end of harvest?
I agree, I find no difference in my weed either, cured/flushed no matter....must be all about the feed, not all about the flush

I've "cured' and not cured. I find degraded old tired trichomes fermented jarred or dried that were overfed to the end make for sleepy time couch experience, But properly fed herb only needs to dry, not ferment in wet jars.
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Ok I need to disagree with you here. The jarring of our flowers has nothing to do with fermentation. I don't even know where some of this stuff comes from. Only on weed forums is this crap even thought of.

The reason for the jar is to create an air free environment so the internal bacteria left in the buds can eat the remaining chlorophyll.

When you open the jar and get an amonia or heavy cut grass smell that is the gasses from the bacteria eating and also dying off.

That is why when we over dry the flowers they stop "curing" and stay in the state they dried out in.

I overdried the 2nd clone of a plant I love with a really strong smell. And it doesn't smell like the first one and it isn't going to. The first one smelled much stronger and tasted smoother after about 3 weeks in the jars. Even better smell and taste now that is more than 6 weeks.

Environmental control is for storage. I am sure the weed dries slow enough for quality in your drying/storage room but I burp jars by feel and smell and all the different sizes and strains dry differently.

I wonder if I can get more out of the buds with the proper burping than you are saying we don't need?I don't tend to disagree with you often. And you know I am not a fan of myth propogators.

And about feeding I agree completely and tested it all year as I posted a few days ago. Even a light fade hurts quality and too green is not good either. Mostly because of overgrowth and possible bud degradation during ripening.

I gave a finishing plant only water yesterday. That is my "flush" I guess. She was fertilized every watering since week 3 until the last one. :-)

There was just no reason to put any more nutes in the pot. I will cut her in 2-3 days.
 
chemphlegm

chemphlegm

Well-Known Member
MichiganMedGrower said:
Ok I need to disagree with you here. The jarring of our flowers has nothing to do with fermentation. I don't even know where some of this stuff comes from. Only on weed forums is this crap even thought of.

1)The reason for the jar is to create an air free environment so the internal bacteria left in the buds can eat the remaining chlorophyll.

When you open the jar and get an amonia or heavy cut grass smell that is the gasses from the bacteria eating and also dying off.

2)That is why when we over dry the flowers they stop "curing" and stay in the state they dried out in.



3)Environmental control is for storage. I am sure the weed dries slow enough for quality in your drying/storage room

4)I gave a finishing plant only water yesterday. That is my "flush" I guess. She was fertilized every watering since week 3 until the last one. :-)

There was just no reason to put any more nutes in the pot. I will cut her in 2-3 days.
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1)
fer·men·ta·tion
ˌfərmənˈtāSH(ə)n/
noun
noun: fermentation
the chemical breakdown of a substance by bacteria, yeasts, or other microorganisms,

if there is moisture in plant material, sugars/carbs/unburned...they are fermenting in the lack of oxygen/in a jar, the smell is telling too. slow ferment, maybe. fermentation periodically halted ? maybe. = still fermentation

2) likely, I agree. when frozen, jarred, bagged, jarred buried or left in the drying tray.....old weed is ill weed for us now that we know the difference. under my 1600x microscope serious degradation is obvious, no idea of the chem make up but certainly more tiring than when a month old in the dry/room. I dont often have/keep anything over 6 weeks, everyone wants it before then, a preference for fresh herbs. I sent these different techniques/results/samples to my lab and saw the differences too, dont understand them, but old weed is a different animal looking at the numbers. chemical plant make up is changed. thc, thca(?) and down the line, age makes change, that change is ill for us. if it wasnt though......I'd a figured out a way to bury my overages forever by now.

3) I set it and forget it. ac, dehuey and humidifier. tricky to keep them all on or off at the same time but works great now, hands off, no matter the outdoor air(like my grow room). Honestly I dont date my weed in the trays, but a sniff n and whiff is all I need. a toke cements the ideal for me. The room is multi functional for me and agreed I got lucky being able to build a big jar maybe?

4)we come from the same flushing school

 
chemphlegm

chemphlegm

Well-Known Member
after most harvests I detect intact chicken shit pellets. over the years I practice to reduce in order to find perfection......I find it in leaving some pellets to the end, added biweekly now per directions and skip the last dry fert feeding for a nice result. I think I could further reduce but scared. the little waste to me is incidental so I'm done experimenting with that one.
 
chemphlegm

chemphlegm

Well-Known Member
@MichiganMedGrower

and yes, on purpose, I use the term Fermentation. it sounds nasty when applied to drying weed to me, or any vegetable matter besides over fed tobacco....of course. I was surprised to see how much smaller tobacco leaf is when fed like you would feed your leafy kale or other veggie. this is why industry over feeds it, for the weight...but wait, it tastes like shit and wont burn, yet...what do we do....get rid of those unburned carbs..how....ferment them, smoke them, age them, heat them, blah blah imo this is where whacky tbaccy heads came up with this , ill supplies/bad info/ over feed for bigger flowers more expressive, bigger greener healthier looking leaves(great for photo's), harvest now because its good enough, but not good to smoke yet....etc....

I get it, I was a whacky baccy kid grower too, so was dad. more weight =more money. nobody cared when import weed was often weak and sun dried, couch locked for the sun cure/wet pack molded even. here comes giant pretty purple flowers fed to the max demanding the most with a buzz topping most others....it was the bomb....
older now, not in a hurry, dont photo, only supply a handful of patients and really care about my intake/garden/care and health. I dont feed my vegetables any different than my indoor mj. I feed my indoor my the same as my indoor veggies too. I would never give my lettuce more ferts to the end for bigger lettuce, even if I knew i could somehow store it for bit to make the golf course flavor go way right? wont do it to my weed either.

that guitar pic with big mj leaves i posted is an overfed (in veg) plant. great big leaves, nice expression(as far s humans are concerned), fed to the end against directions and not even usable until a long ferment.
I get the jig, I do, just aint practicing it here is all.
 
jarvild

jarvild

Well-Known Member
MichiganMedGrower said:
You mean water only for a month? Not heavy amounts poured through to leach the medium?

What kind of soil or mix? How much fertilizer was added before flushing?

I have had enough left in the soil to go a couple weeks and still stack flowers.
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Water only in coco coir drain to waste with runoff, feeds up until the flush were 1.0 ec or less. Hydro nute's.
So there is still some green in a plant that had nothing but water for 4 weeks, So what are we really getting rid of with 2 weeks of flushing ?
 
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